concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I'd take the check, buy it back, buy a portajack, chain that bitch to a light pole, straighten it out, then use the rest of the money to buy an Exocet kit. Sell whatever extras you have for 2 weeks. Whatever is left after that, throw away.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Here we go again.

"Totaled" does not mean "not fixable." Totaled ONLY means that the cost to repair the car at normal labor rates and parts costs is greater than 70-70% (depending on insurance provider) of the ACV of the car.

The insurance company will surely declare this vehicle a total loss.. HOWEVER, it is fixable, so you'd be silly to NOT buy it back.

My car's estimated repair cost was over $10,000. I have spent less than $500 in parts so far, and the body work will cost less than $2,000. After buying new wheels, I'll still be under $3k all said and done for the repairs, and my car was MUCH worse than this.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

My racecar is bent. And its honestly been the biggest pain in the *** ever as there's a whole bunch of sheet metal that you can't measure that is apparently not in the correct locations after being hit in the front a couple times. And then there's the frame rail wrinkle behind the sway bar bracket.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Escort is bent as well. ****** has a clear title.

MX6 is bent, passenger floor is nice and wrinkled. MX6 = ain't care. Takes an alignment.

Escort = pain in the dick because all the adjustable suspensions and OCD not liking arms adjusted out 1" differently on each side.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

My cars aren't bent at all. But the engines suck.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

My subframes and bits all line up right. The front and rear tracks are offset like 3/32nd of an inch though which is mildly annoying when doing alignments. Its the bits of sheet metal that are in the way of where the tires want to be thats the most annoying and also trying to make aero bits to fit.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Where you see the body plug has come up from the floor a bit. I'm not sure this is from being totaled or if it's from me riding around yoloslammed and hitting something. Nice and wrinkled and punched up a good 2-3".

It's ok. I have a big hammer. I can fix it.

dooderek

7k estimate in repairs, driver send frame rail bent. car is most likely a total

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I know what totaled means. I am just not so sure it is the best strategy to have the insurance company total the car when you consider all costs in this particular case.

When I mean all costs, I mean the actual cost to repair, cost to buy back the car, loss of value from a salvage title, and other expenses and time that may arise from all this.

What I am not clear on is if a car is devalued significantly when it has a rebuilt title.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Depends on the car. In this case: Yes.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

It is devalued a lot for an MSM, not so much on an NA since they're bottoming out in value. On the other hand you cant really stop the ins co from totaling it.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

You can. You just take a smaller payment.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Definitely totalled, as soon as the unibody is bent it's done unless it's an expensive car. Good luck on the repair or part out.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

That doesnt seem right. Normally the ins co has 4 options. Shop fix is, cut you a check to have your own shop fix it, total it, or deny the claim. You only get to choose between the first two. But I guess you could bribe the adjuster to quote the repair cost at just under 70% of the value so it doesnt get totaled and choose to have them cut you the check for the repair cost.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I didn't say it was right or necessarily 100% legal and myself, will always push for a total.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Well, if I really wanted the car as a street car that I would eventually sell, I would negotiate with the insurance company to have the car repaired at a reduced cost. Perhaps supplying some of the parts, (the radiator you really need comes to mind) doing some of the disassembly, and letting a professional finish the car.

Some insurance companies will allow this kind of negotiation. Some won't.

yellowspecvnismo

ok guys here is how the clowns run the circus !! i'm estimating that he is gonna get $8300+/- ACV for that MSM .. at that point you can run with the money and done deal , then the insurance will value the car around $1500 bucks but its not easy .. they have to tow the car $$$expense , send paperwork to transfer the name EJ.Progressive causality co. that's an example more $$$expense , list the car with an insurance action witch 10% of sale price + storage fee's while paper work is being processes$$expense and if the car doesn't sell more storage fee's .............................. that's why insurance companies are so willing to sell you the car back is cheaper for them, and a heck of a deal on your part and yes!!!! you can negotiate the "buy it back price"

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

OP, how many miles are on your car and what are they saying is the ACV?

I think they'll ACV it higher than that. I got $8200 AFTER buyback was taken out.

yellowspecvnismo

oh wow !!!!!!!

yellowspecvnismo

you are probably right!!! $8200 is too low,,,,, im so used to low balling everything