Braineack

iTrader: (62)

If it's a real GT2554, then you cant rebuild it.

Can you get another video of it running now?

travisb

The car is not currently at my house, but it sounds just the same as before.

So I just read more info on the ball bearing turbos. It sucks that they can't be rebuilt like the journals.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

If you are convinced its the bearings and you don't want to "run it till it dies" there are a couple of options. I just looked into all of this for another project, so its pretty fresh in my mind.

If you want to stick with the GT2554R, its true that YOU can't rebuild it, but a authorized Garrett Performance Distributor can... kinda. Distributors can be found on Garretts website or call the guys at Turbos Direct in AZ and talk to Mike and he can probably get you in on the Garrett CHRA/ball bearing exchange program. You send them your CHRA, they inspect it and send you back a fresh CHRA. You reassemble your turbo and you move on with your life. Its about $380~ for the T25/T28 series turbos and another $25 to ship it back to you.

-or-

Replace it. New Garrett GT2554R is $949.00 @ Trackspeed. For $20 more you can get a GT2560R. Don't have that kind of cash? Buy an ISIS T25/28 journal bearing turbo from enjukuracing.com for $279 with a warranty, or any number of other china turbos from eBay. Another option is a used SR20 journal bearing Garrett T25 pattern S13/S14 turbo from a Nissan. These are readily available on the Nissan forums, incredibly cheap and easily rebuild-able with a kit from someone likeGPopShop or the equivalent kit of Chinese origin on eBay. (Full disclosure: GPops are probably Chinese too)

I'm a supercharger guy so take all this with a grain of salt and do your own research. I'm sure Fae and a couple others will come in here and scream about the Garrett CHRA cabal, but I can tell you that as a guy with a blower that the manufacturer offers NO rebuild program on, I'd MUCH rather have spent my money on a new T28 or a disco potato and get $400 rebuilds whenever its needed.

travisb

EO2K,
Thank you for the excellent information. I will look into some of these options.

A friend of a friend might be able to do a rebuild for me very cheap (free???) if I supply the parts. Any idea on bearing part numbers?

I'd rather fix it now for $100 than have it blow up and have to spend $1000 next week or a year from now.

Thanks again!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

id like to hear it running again...and then id like to see you dangle a tissue all over the exhaust flanges while it idles and prove there's no leak.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

There are no bearing part numbers, I'm not sure you are getting it...

These are not like your front wheel hubs or bicycle cranks or nitro RC cars or even rotary tools... the CHRA section of a ball bearing Garrett turbo is NOT designed to be rebuilt. The CHRA is a wear item that is designed to be replaced.

Someone from the internet would be HAPPY to sell you a rebuild kit for a ball bearing Garrett I'm sure, but keep in mind that its is not a factory part as Garrett/Honeywell never designed these to be rebuilt. If you choose to follow this path and you open the CHRA to screw with the bearings or remove the wheels, you will void your turbos eligibility in the exchange program. A straight purchase on a new CHRA for a GT2554R is $728 from ATP Turbo. This is almost double the cost of the exchange program.

$400 gets you what is essentially a brand new 2554 with all Garrett parts (assuming your housings are fine) or $100 gets you something your buddy cobbled together in his garage that could possibly destroy the entire turbo.

You have been warned, proceed with caution.

I'm with Brain. Let's see that again now that there are some gaskets on it.

travisb

I understand now. I will do some more tests as well.

Do I need to do anything special to be eligible for the exchange program like sign up for it when the turbo was purchased?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Nope. Just has to be a genuine Garrett, the CHRA needs to have never been disassembled, it needs to have at least one of the 4 major components intact (wheels, shaft, center housing & bearing cartridge maybe? Don't quote me on that) and it has to be an eligible model. Get the numbers off the CHRA tag, call a Distributor, get a quote. It's literally as simple as that.

From what I've been told, there are very very few ineligible models out there anymore. Most of them were goofy wheel combinations that were ordered by OEMs for specific vehicle fitments. Any "aftermarket" sourced turbo should be a standard eligible model.

But like you said, do more testing and we'll do what we can to help you. Lots of good people on this forum (shocking, i know) that are willing to help if you are willing to listen and try. No need to spend money on a replacement CHRA or pour vodka on your ECU and burn it until we figure out what the problem actually is.

travisb

I finally got back to the car yesterday. It sounds the same as before even with the gaskets. No air leaks detected.

The yarn in this video is moving because of me, not any wind.

I contacted one of the chra exchange companies via email today and I will see what they say.

travisb

I finally have an update. I sent the CHRA to Turbo Direct in AZ as suggested by EO2K.

They said "We got you CHRA taken down this morning and there is nothing wrong with it. Everything checks out fine."

I asked to double check since we believe the bearings are a problem and he said "The turbo is perfectly fine."

So... now what? I could continue with the exchange as planned or have them ship mine back. I was 99% sure the turbo was the problem, now I don't know.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Well, you spent $40-$50 in shipping to confirm the turbo was not the problem. While I don't particularly see an issue with that, I'm honestly not sure than spending $300-$400 on a new CHRA is going to accomplish anything at this point. Other than emptying your wallet.

Get it back, get it installed, continue troubleshooting.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Brianeack is such a moron, he recognizes that whistling is a phenomenon that occurs when air flows through a small hole.

we all know the earth is flat.

travisb

Brain, I described it as a "whistle" sound, because that's what it sounded like to me at first. Many people, even those who heard it in person, said it did not sound like a whistle but more like a metallic noise, like bearings.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

expect everything else you posted also SHOWED leaks. Im completely dissapointed in everyone.

travisb

that's true

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

I had a similar noise in my garrett t3s60. In my case it was probably the bearings in my "rebuilt" turbo going bad.

You know what I did with it?

I friggen ran it.

It spooled fine, held boost fine, made lots of power without issue.

So I just ran it and ignored the noise. And I mean I ran it hard, over 1000 miles on track with that turbo making a whine/whistle noise, and countless more miles on the street. Eventually melted a piston but, the turbo was and still is "fine"...

Ignorance is bliss, so is turbo bewst!

travisb

I appreciate everyone's help.

travisb

So if it is not the turbo, what would be the next things to look at?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I dunno, start eliminating variables? Your turbo is still in the mail, right?

This is my Miata.net style response: Put your factory exhaust and intake toob back on and run the car. Make sure its not something artarrded like your power steering or AC compressor by removing the belt and running the car. When was your timing belt service last done? Did you replace the idlers?

You know, my rotrex whistles and I was told that's just intake noise from having an open element filter. Back in the day when I had my NA with the Monsterflow intake, it also whistled.

...maybe learn to love the whistle? BrainBrain may have something here.