Wilwood Releasing Miata BBK, Only $635 for Fronts
#24
That's the advantage of being first on the market, such as with the 949 wheels. FM AFAIK is a reseller of the Goodwin kit so they weren't competing. I'm not saying 949 wheels are overpriced, as even when they first came out they were priced right vis a vis the not-quite-competition (15x7's).
The time it took for Wilwood to enter the market tells me that there's a lot of opportunity out there for small biz to compete (auto aftermarket, not specifically miata bbk's).
If you want to be horrified, look at the prices of E36 BMW BBK's. My car came with front BBK's which I didn't need, I downgraded to stock, and sold the ones from the car for $1700.
The time it took for Wilwood to enter the market tells me that there's a lot of opportunity out there for small biz to compete (auto aftermarket, not specifically miata bbk's).
If you want to be horrified, look at the prices of E36 BMW BBK's. My car came with front BBK's which I didn't need, I downgraded to stock, and sold the ones from the car for $1700.
Bob
#26
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/737924/2
Bob
#27
The mounting brackets that come with the Mini-cooper kit fit the Miata as well. My wife was in shock when she saw her Mini up in the air next to my Miata when I was test fitting her brakes on the Miata. Both the rotor and the hat bolt on. In the radial direction there is 3/8" difference however but that is pretty easy to adjust with a radial mount caliper. The Mini kit was already designed to work with both 11.75 and 12.19" rotors. There are actually a few 15” wheels that would take a 12.19 rotor.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/737924/2
Bob
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/737924/2
Bob
Which makes me now wonder- Is the caliper bracket different from the 11.75 kit ro the 12.1 kit or if both kits use the same caliper bracket and one just accepts the larger rotor.
Either way, I'm going a lightly different route that will all (hopefully) be Miata-specific...but pieced together. I just need to hear back from V8R to see if they'll sell their caliper mounts seperately and what offset the hub needs to be with their bracket.
Last edited by Doppelgänger; 09-17-2010 at 12:26 PM.
#28
Seems Good-Win is following the trend for $699 (including lines) front only, looks like different hats, caliper brackets, and pads:
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...ml?id=yZeqAupi
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...ml?id=yZeqAupi
__________________
#32
Seems Good-Win is following the trend for $699 (including lines) front only, looks like different hats, caliper brackets, and pads:
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...ml?id=yZeqAupi
http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda...ml?id=yZeqAupi
I'd take the Dyna Pro Kit.
Bob
#33
I just got to looking at the pictures and the kit from wilwood has DynaPro calipers instead of Dyna Light. The Dyna Pro calipers are way stiffer and I think they might use the thicker pads like my Mini brakes do. Retail price for the Dyna Pro calipers by themselves I think is normally double that of the Dyna Lights.
I'd take the Dyna Pro Kit.
Bob
I'd take the Dyna Pro Kit.
Bob
#36
BTW, we're offering a souped up version of the kit as well.
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/949-racing-11-wilwood-bbk-51892/
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep-75/949-racing-11-wilwood-bbk-51892/
__________________
#40
Radials cost more.
To get the actually realize the potential benefit of a radial though, the spindle would have to be redesigned so the loads are vectored directly at the centerline of the hub. As it is, we would have to cut off the bosses, grind them flat and still end up with the thing cantilevered a bit, indirect load path. I looked at doing this for the OGK with a custom set of offset V8R hubs but decided there were other more cost effective things we could do on the car to improve brake feel. I hate one off stuff that no one else can get. If I do something for one of our cars, I want to be able to serial produce it. In the end, an 11" kit like this can provide a rock solid pedal in actual race conditions. BTDT.
-Bump to a 15/16, 1 or 1.125 M/C.
-Fab a M/C brace
-Use stiff hats. Too much lightening, we have discovered, can contribute to knock back
-Run lots of rear brake bias if you have an effective wing
-Blueprint your hubs
-If you have deleted your e-brake, manually adjust your rear brakes after every hour or so on track.
Anyway Bob, You already have your DIY Monster BBK and it works right?
To get the actually realize the potential benefit of a radial though, the spindle would have to be redesigned so the loads are vectored directly at the centerline of the hub. As it is, we would have to cut off the bosses, grind them flat and still end up with the thing cantilevered a bit, indirect load path. I looked at doing this for the OGK with a custom set of offset V8R hubs but decided there were other more cost effective things we could do on the car to improve brake feel. I hate one off stuff that no one else can get. If I do something for one of our cars, I want to be able to serial produce it. In the end, an 11" kit like this can provide a rock solid pedal in actual race conditions. BTDT.
-Bump to a 15/16, 1 or 1.125 M/C.
-Fab a M/C brace
-Use stiff hats. Too much lightening, we have discovered, can contribute to knock back
-Run lots of rear brake bias if you have an effective wing
-Blueprint your hubs
-If you have deleted your e-brake, manually adjust your rear brakes after every hour or so on track.
Anyway Bob, You already have your DIY Monster BBK and it works right?
__________________