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Old 01-14-2015, 10:58 AM   #701
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it doesn't slip anywhere else, but put it in 5th, get it below 3K and when it spools up it slips for a second and catched again.

unless i have boost tuned poorly and it's shooting to 25+psi or something. I took a video.
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Old 01-14-2015, 11:12 AM   #702
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that's how any clutch on any car starts slipping.
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:30 PM   #703
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Quote:
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Pat - I have only done a few auto's but seems like a decent plan I guess. Have you considered a trans cooler? I hear that's the thing to get for them when making more than stock power.

Corey - the LCA fronts tend to rip and make noises, but who knows.

Scott - more clutch dumps from a stop light should fix that lulz
I have considered it. I'm thinking once it's running again, and I know it shifts/works ok, I may go ahead and put a cooler on it.

ALSO:

I've done several hours research on trans fluid, and I am now planning to go with 50:50 mix of Dextron 6 and Type F fluid. Dex 6 is a better version of Dex 3, which is ok for this trans (though subaru recommends their fluid first), and type F is basically just hydraulic oil with a few additives like anti foam and detergent, but Type F has no friction modifiers.

Pouring in pure Type F would increase the torque capacity of the trans, but it would probably bang into every gear, and be very jerky/grabby when changing gears. So goal is to mix it so I get some increased torque capacity, and only some jerky/grabbyness that I can live with. I am happy with firm shifts, and I'd rather it be a bit jerky at low load and not slip when at WOT shifting vs smooth and slippy in boost.

If it sucks, I'll put regular fluid in it, this will be a bit of an experiment in a subaru, but plenty of people have mixed these and gotten the results I'm looking for in other applications that call for dex 3. If it works, could make subaru auto less-sucky!
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:36 PM   #704
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Here's a question I can't find the answer to on the LGT forums:

When it is very cold out, like today (below zero), I have a very loud and obvious grinding/clicking noise on acceleration, coming from individual wheels. I cannot tell whether it is actually from the wheel, or something inboard of the wheel, but depending on just how cold it is, I can make it move from wheel to wheel by changing the loading while accelerating. It starts in the front under mild acceleration, but either moves to the rear or adds the rear under harder acceleration and colder temps. I can move it left or right by loading the left or right wheels respectively.

When it is in the teens (Fahrenheit), the noise will go away as the car warms up, but when it is in the single digits or below zero, whatever is making the noise seems to stay cold enough, so the noise never doesn't happen when I accelerate.

Thoughts on what is causing this? My latest theory is u-joints or something, but I don't know why that would be temperature dependent. I don't know why anything would be temperature dependent like this outside the engine/transmission. I do need a new wheel bearing or 4, but I also can't imagine the wheel bearing is causing this.

All my suspension bushings are the torn stock ones, could something be moving enough to cause this noise? I have replacement poly bushings for the front I just haven't gotten around to installing them yet.
BTW, this is an '05 OBXT 5MT with snow tires and stock 17" alloys, no tune or any mods at all to the powertrain.
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Old 01-14-2015, 12:37 PM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skidude View Post
Here's a question I can't find the answer to on the LGT forums:

When it is very cold out, like today (below zero), I have a very loud and obvious grinding/clicking noise on acceleration, coming from individual wheels. I cannot tell whether it is actually from the wheel, or something inboard of the wheel, but depending on just how cold it is, I can make it move from wheel to wheel by changing the loading while accelerating. It starts in the front under mild acceleration, but either moves to the rear or adds the rear under harder acceleration and colder temps. I can move it left or right by loading the left or right wheels respectively.

When it is in the teens (Fahrenheit), the noise will go away as the car warms up, but when it is in the single digits or below zero, whatever is making the noise seems to stay cold enough, so the noise never doesn't happen when I accelerate.

Thoughts on what is causing this? My latest theory is u-joints or something, but I don't know why that would be temperature dependent. I don't know why anything would be temperature dependent like this outside the engine/transmission. I do need a new wheel bearing or 4, but I also can't imagine the wheel bearing is causing this.

All my suspension bushings are the torn stock ones, could something be moving enough to cause this noise? I have replacement poly bushings for the front I just haven't gotten around to installing them yet.
Will it make the noise without accelerating, just turning when cold? If so, wheel bearings are my guess. If not,
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Old 01-14-2015, 01:18 PM   #706
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I have never heard the noise other than when accelerating.
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Old 01-14-2015, 01:28 PM   #707
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wheel bearings usually howl, but who knows
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Old 01-14-2015, 01:30 PM   #708
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Or grind, could be the grease of something is either mostly missing or so caked/dried up that in the cold its not really functional anymore.
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Old 01-14-2015, 01:55 PM   #709
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CV joints. Probably dry.
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:18 PM   #710
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Can those things be repacked and boots replaced? I've got one that looks like it may be leaking slightly. Not surprisingly I cant seem to find any good info about these things.
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:20 PM   #711
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yes and they're cheap too at the dealer
I did the front ones or at least one side on your car
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Old 01-14-2015, 02:21 PM   #712
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Yes they can be re-packed and re-booted. The passenger's side front one is often the first boot to go.
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:04 PM   #713
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Yar, its the passenger front inside. I noticed what looked like tiny droplets of grease on the downpipe heatshield the last time I was under the car.

Quote:
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yes and they're cheap too at the dealer
I did the front ones or at least one side on your car
Methinks I may take you up on the previous offer about ordering them through your connections. I'll shoot you a PM tonight.
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:13 PM   #714
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If its spraying grease, get on it before it becomes an issue dealer axles are expensive and the internet claims the parts store ones suck.
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:22 PM   #715
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part store ones beyond suck.
the monkeys behind the counter have absolutely no idea whatsoever about the billion different styles and just tell you whatever their stupid outdated "system" says should fit.

11 times out of 10 its the wrong one.

there are a couple online sites that sell OEM ones for good price
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:36 PM   #716
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Where are these places. I just checked my typical oem subie parts hunts and everyone is over 200/axle.
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:44 PM   #717
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Look up Raxles, they make high-quality rebuilt subaru axles, they are the best short of new OEM axles. I run them in mine, they are reasonable too.
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Old 01-14-2015, 04:54 PM   #718
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Just to clarify, this "grinding" noise is more of a "click" that repeats fast enough that when it comes from all four corners at once it would be indistinguishable from a "grind" It is a pretty loud click, too.
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:23 AM   #719
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Quote:
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that's how any clutch on any car starts slipping.
well that's sad.
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:50 AM   #720
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Yeah. Doing work is a drag
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