How (and why) to Ramble on your goat sideways
08-29-2015, 02:54 AM
For those who solder at home - how are you guys extracting your fumes? It's really never crossed my mind but with age, I'm becoming more of a hypochondriac. Do you need a filter or just a fan blowing out a window?
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08-29-2015, 07:36 AM
Retired Mech Design Engr
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<p>
</p><p>Small fan so you don't directly breathe the fumes. http://www2.lbl.gov/ehs/ih/pdf/safeSolderingFinal.pdf</p><p>At work, we use small computer fans or exhaust ducts, again, to keep from directly breathing the rising plumes. For the little bit you are likely to be doing, I wouldn't be concerned about the window. </p>
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08-29-2015, 11:10 AM
Boost Pope
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Saturday morning in Manhattan.
Late summer. A cooling breeze blows.
People walk. Some run. A child laughs, a horn honks.
Street-cart shawarma and warm garbage co-mingle in the nose.
Life is good.
Late summer. A cooling breeze blows.
People walk. Some run. A child laughs, a horn honks.
Street-cart shawarma and warm garbage co-mingle in the nose.
Life is good.
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08-29-2015, 01:13 PM
+1 to what's been said on Red Wing.
I'd been wearing Timberland Titans for the past 8 years or so. Typically got about a year out of each pair before the sole disintegrated and came apart at the front.
Decided to make a change back in March. Bought a pair of Irish Setter # 878 "Trailblazers." Irish Setter is Red Wing's "made in China" line, if you haven't heard of them. Despite this, I am astounded by both the materials quality and workmanship in these boots. They aren't even in the same league as the Timberlands- vastly superior in every way imaginable, and just as comfy despite being noticeably stiffer and heavier.
Men's 878 Trailblazer 7" Brown Outdoor Boot | Irish Setter
I've been wearing them every day for the past five months, and aside from a few small scuffs they still look brand new. The stitching looks like it'll be quite durable, very rugged sole... These are what boots are supposed to be. Unless they spontaneously fall apart in the next few months (which I can't imagine they will), my brand-loyalty has definitely switched.
I'd been wearing Timberland Titans for the past 8 years or so. Typically got about a year out of each pair before the sole disintegrated and came apart at the front.
Decided to make a change back in March. Bought a pair of Irish Setter # 878 "Trailblazers." Irish Setter is Red Wing's "made in China" line, if you haven't heard of them. Despite this, I am astounded by both the materials quality and workmanship in these boots. They aren't even in the same league as the Timberlands- vastly superior in every way imaginable, and just as comfy despite being noticeably stiffer and heavier.
Men's 878 Trailblazer 7" Brown Outdoor Boot | Irish Setter
I've been wearing them every day for the past five months, and aside from a few small scuffs they still look brand new. The stitching looks like it'll be quite durable, very rugged sole... These are what boots are supposed to be. Unless they spontaneously fall apart in the next few months (which I can't imagine they will), my brand-loyalty has definitely switched.
These are steel toe correct? As this is a must for us. Usually a few weeks into wearing them the forms start ripping apart the toes, exposing the steel. For some reason its more predominant on my left foot. Not even sure how it happens, but it happens to every pair. Without steel toes I surely wouldn't have much left for toes.
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08-29-2015, 01:26 PM
Boost Pope
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These are steel toe correct? As this is a must for us. Usually a few weeks into wearing them the forms start ripping apart the toes, exposing the steel. For some reason its more predominant on my left foot. Not even sure how it happens, but it happens to every pair. Without steel toes I surely wouldn't have much left for toes.
Regardless, if you're used to Timberland, you need to check out Red Wing / Irish Setter. The quality difference is amazing, and the comfort is identical. The *ONLY* complaint I have about the Irish Setter boots is that, in size 14, my thighs are in constant contact with the steering wheel when driving a Miata. (The sole, and the heel in particular, is both longer and thicker than the Timberland, causing my legs to sit slightly higher in the car. This is probably not an issue for people with normal-sized feet.)
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08-29-2015, 03:15 PM
Boost Czar
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love this:
so prices do NOT included all charges to be paid...
Price includes all charges to be paid by customer except for tax, tags, title, document fee, detailing, reconditioning, and etch. must present ad at time of sale to receive advertised price.
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08-29-2015, 03:15 PM
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Hmmm. Timberland pros have been my go to for 10+ years (usually last 6 months) and I was actually just going to order a new pair this weekend. Maybe I will give these a try...<br />
<br /><br />
<br />These are steel toe correct? As this is a must for us. Usually a few weeks into wearing them the forms start ripping apart the toes, exposing the steel. For some reason its more predominant on my left foot. Not even sure how it happens, but it happens to every pair. Without steel toes I surely wouldn't have much left for toes.
<br /><br />
<br />These are steel toe correct? As this is a must for us. Usually a few weeks into wearing them the forms start ripping apart the toes, exposing the steel. For some reason its more predominant on my left foot. Not even sure how it happens, but it happens to every pair. Without steel toes I surely wouldn't have much left for toes.
<br /><br />
<br />Pick up your feet when you walk. Bet you drag your toes somehow.
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08-29-2015, 03:39 PM
This is from kicking the metal forms when setting them, letting them drop to my feet to help balance the weight, etc. Its definitely happening on the job site, because I have a separate pair of Timberlands that I only use for meetings and office days that still look brand new. Those ******* are like 4 years old too.
This is the condition of the last pair I retired. I keep them in the office as a spare set for pouring floors.
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08-29-2015, 06:08 PM
Elite Member
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The coolest (scariest) landings I ever saw in real life were CH53s landing chinese in a dense fog on an amphibious assault ship.
More cool C-130 stuff.
(Operation Honeybadger)
The C-130 on the blue angels is rigged with a version of these thrusters.
More cool C-130 stuff.
(Operation Honeybadger)
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08-30-2015, 03:06 PM
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
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I just had some boots made custom to order back when Allen Edmonds did group made-to-orders for cheap. Too hot for summer though. Fall they will get a workout.
Horween's Dublin leather. Made in Mur-cuh!
Horween's Dublin leather. Made in Mur-cuh!
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08-30-2015, 10:14 PM
Boost Pope
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Leaded. 63/37.
Lead-free solder is massive compromise, forced upon the industry by the European RoHS directive, which aims to eliminate environmental pollution (landfills, water table, etc) by a large number of heavy metals and other toxins, of which lead is one.
There is extremely little risk of human toxicity from the use of lead solder at the workbench, unless you are literally eating the solder. Lead does not evaporate during the soldering process. Lead-free solder is all about what happens after you throw the device away, not what happens while the device is being constructed or used.
Lead-free solder is much more difficult to use than lead-bearing solder, not just for the hobbyist but for OEMs as well. Every manufacturer of circuit boards went through a huge learning curve, with lots of failures and massive cost, during the transition. And, at Harris, we continued to use 63/37 leaded solder at the service department (for repair / rework) long after the manufacturing process went lead-free. Lead-free solder has a higher working temperature, poorer wetting, poorer flow characteristics, is more prone to crystallization and cracking, lacks the instant phase-charge characteristic (from liquid directly to solid, without a plastic phase) of 63/37, and is generally just a pain in the *** to work with. It can be done well in a fully-automatic reflow oven, but sucks for hand-soldering.
This is my everyday, general-purpose solder: http://www.parts-express.com/kester-...spool--370-074
Lead-free solder is massive compromise, forced upon the industry by the European RoHS directive, which aims to eliminate environmental pollution (landfills, water table, etc) by a large number of heavy metals and other toxins, of which lead is one.
There is extremely little risk of human toxicity from the use of lead solder at the workbench, unless you are literally eating the solder. Lead does not evaporate during the soldering process. Lead-free solder is all about what happens after you throw the device away, not what happens while the device is being constructed or used.
Lead-free solder is much more difficult to use than lead-bearing solder, not just for the hobbyist but for OEMs as well. Every manufacturer of circuit boards went through a huge learning curve, with lots of failures and massive cost, during the transition. And, at Harris, we continued to use 63/37 leaded solder at the service department (for repair / rework) long after the manufacturing process went lead-free. Lead-free solder has a higher working temperature, poorer wetting, poorer flow characteristics, is more prone to crystallization and cracking, lacks the instant phase-charge characteristic (from liquid directly to solid, without a plastic phase) of 63/37, and is generally just a pain in the *** to work with. It can be done well in a fully-automatic reflow oven, but sucks for hand-soldering.
This is my everyday, general-purpose solder: http://www.parts-express.com/kester-...spool--370-074
Last edited by Joe Perez; 08-30-2015 at 10:38 PM.
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