How (and why) to Ramble On your domestic shorthair - Page 1243 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-06-2016, 11:10 AM   #24841
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Picked up a gate valve since a ball one usually has a large handle. It's going in a tight space, possible around the clutch line above the transmission. Grabbed matching connections with 5/8in id barbs and measures 4-5" in total length. This should be fun.

Going to find the sweet spot of adjustment that doesn't hinder too much flow out of the reroute but just enough to quickly warm up the motor and stop ecu from throwing the code.

After this bandaid, I have to figure out if my knock is tune related or is just a bad knock sensor. I don't remember if BEGi grabbed it from steph's totaled blue car or another around the shop.. or if new

Is it possible to reach up there from the bottom, remove & install a new one? REALLY don't want to take off the entire intake manifold.

Not the exact one, photo for reference
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Old 03-06-2016, 11:16 AM   #24842
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What are you doing with that monstrosity?
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Old 03-06-2016, 11:50 AM   #24843
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Quote:
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What are you doing with that monstrosity?
Placing it inline with the begi racer reroute to pass inspection. Car 'thinks' the stat is stuck open due to very slow warm up. Throws p0128 code & I'm unable to pass. I have no monies to do a proper reroute. Making lemonade out of my rebuilt lemon.

The photo isn't the exact one Mine is much smaller
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Old 03-06-2016, 11:55 AM   #24844
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A gate valve is a much better choice than a ball valve. It is very difficult to actually get flow control with a ball valve, unless it has a v-cut notch in the ball vs the straight though bore. A gate valve will serve the purpose well for what you are trying to do.
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Old 03-06-2016, 12:03 PM   #24845
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Well the good thing about the gate valve compared to the ball valve is the inners will stand up to the temperature.
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:21 PM   #24846
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Back in January, I promised hole-related updates. So here we go.

I converted this piece of aluminum bar-stock:



Into this adapter panel:



Using nothing but a bandsaw, some files, and some sandpaper.



Having removed this wooden end-piece:



From this audio console:



The panel bolts onto the end thusly:



Which then allows me to take this other audio console:



And, having done some light refurbishment to it and removing the corresponding end-piece, bolt the two together to create this beautiful monstrosity:




The result is a 52-fader Wheatstone E6 control surface (the largest size they build as standard is 24 faders), including an 8-channel remappable flying-faders module which interfaces with the video switcher. A bit of custom programming, and the two boards function as one.

We installed it in the new room on Friday, and the audio guys are all in heaven right now.
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How (and why) to Ramble On your domestic shorthair-80-undefined_c66d108259c2f43b406d624bf426192241759aff.png   How (and why) to Ramble On your domestic shorthair-80-undefined_f2fa84fc9f08fd9fd67d1eeb76503c8466eda9e5.png  
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:23 PM   #24847
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What is your official title Joe? Head problem solver?
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:43 PM   #24848
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Steam Store: Factorio

That is all.
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Old 03-07-2016, 01:52 PM   #24849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
What is your official title Joe? Head problem solver?
On paper, I'm the engineering manager.

In practice, that means that in addition to herding the local cats, I solve problems like "How do we get a 52 fader console when we only have the budget for a 20 fader console, plus this old 24 fader console lying around, plus this other fader module from another system?"
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:07 PM   #24850
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A tourist is backpacking through the Highlands of Scotland. And he stops at a pub to get a drink. And the only people in there is a bartender and an old man nursing a beer. And he orders a pint. They sit in silence for a while. And suddenly, the old man turns to him and goes, ya see this bar?

Ya see this bar? I built this bar with my bare hands. Found the finest wood in the county, gave it more love and care than my own child, but do they call me McGregor the bar builder? No.

He points out the window.

Ya see that stone wall out there? I built that stone wall with my bare hands, found every stone, placed it just so through the rain and the cold, but do they call me McGregor the stone wall builder? No.

He points out the other window.

And ya see that pier on the lake out there? I built that pier with my bare hands, drove the pilings against the tide in the sand, plank by plank, but do they call me McGregor the pier builder? No.

The old man looks down at the bar.

But you **** one goat...
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:08 PM   #24851
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Anyone have any expierence with the Fantech brand of centrifugal inline exhaust fans?

Specifically this type of job:
Fantech FR110 Centrifugal Inline Exhaust Fan, 167 CFM - for 4" Duct - Other Products - Amazon.com Fantech FR110 Centrifugal Inline Exhaust Fan, 167 CFM - for 4" Duct - Other Products - Amazon.com



The fan in my bathroom provides insufficient air flow volume to combat moisture buildup. Its loud and inefficient and hell. My landlord is not interested in replacing the fan ("it works, just run it longer") but this is not an option if one were, for example, take a shower right before bedtime. So I've decided I'm going to 'Joe Perez' this problem with my own hardware. I have access to the attic so I'm considering installing this guy inline with the existing ducting. Simple, easily reversible modification that should solve my problem.

What would make this EVEN MORE BETTER is a device that I could install in the fan circuit that when the fan is powered, even if you turn the switch off, it will continue to run for a preset amount of time, call it 30~60min.

The standard elcheapo mechanical rotary switches won't work because I have a single gang box with 2 switches/circuits in it: one for the shower fan/light and one for the vanity/bathroom light. Switches look like this:



A 2 gang box is not an option because that would not be easily reversible. Both circuits must remain independent. I'd be happy with an elcheapo mechanical rotary if someone knew of one in a combo switch as above.

Thoughts? Ideas? Recommendations?
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Last edited by EO2K; 03-07-2016 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:18 PM   #24852
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Edit* NVM, I just found these.
Lutron MA-L3T251-WH Maestro 300 Watt Single Pole Dimmer And Timer Switch, White - Wall Dimmer Switches - Amazon.com Lutron MA-L3T251-WH Maestro 300 Watt Single Pole Dimmer And Timer Switch, White - Wall Dimmer Switches - Amazon.com
Edit again* nevermind. I thought that worked both independently, it will not.
I've looked for what you need before, and I never found one.

167cfm seems about the best you're going to get from 4" home gamer stuff.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:27 PM   #24853
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Yeah, the CFM should be more than sufficient based on the fact that the current one moves like 6 CFM. I thought maybe the damper was stuck closed or there was a kink in the duct, but no, it just sucks.

Or doesn't suck, as the case may be.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:31 PM   #24854
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And here I had a complicated solution which would probably have burned your house down all ready to post...


Better picture of new control room. I'm quite proud of the way this all came out.


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Old 03-07-2016, 03:34 PM   #24855
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Have you checked to see if the existing one is totally gunked up with sticky lint and whatnot, and/or the duct is similarly clogged. It's quite common, and though 6 cfm isn't a lot, it's WAY more than 3, if that's all you're really getting. Just sayin.
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:53 PM   #24856
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Yeah its not gunked, checked that as well. I've disassembled the entire head unit and cleaned what I could when I checked the flapper and greased the bushings to try to address the noise. Visual inspection and dryer duct brush confirm there is no blockage. Roof cap is also clear.

Ductwork will also be replaced. Its mostly metal sections that look like they were scabbed together by some tardbucket contractor who knew the homeowner would never go up there to check the work. I'll probably replace it with the semi-rigid 4" stuff from the Home Despot.

6 CFM was just an arbitrary number that looked silly, I really have no way to measure it

Quote:
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And here I had a complicated solution which would probably have burned your house down all ready to post...
BRING IT! I've got insurance and experience with this.
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:55 PM   #24857
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Default Manatees Gangbang Fat Woman

Florida: 400-Pound Woman Survives Sexual Assault by herd of Manatees World News Daily Report

Fort Pierce, FL | The U.S. Coast Guard rescued a Florida woman from a frightening assault by a herd of manatees yesterday near Pepper Park Beach, a popular beach in the area.


The tourist on vacation went for a swim near 2pm in the afternoon when she was suddenly caught up by a herd of male manatees that possibly mistook the poor woman for a female manatee.
“I was just playing around in the water when I suddenly noticed a herd of manatees next to me. At first I was curious, but eventually I became scared when they started getting agitated. Then something pulled me underwater and as I gagged for air, I felt the crushing weight of one of the beasts on my back and at that moment, I thought I was going to die” she recalls, visibly traumatized by the latest events. “It all happened in a flash, all I remember is the horrifying sight of the manatees trying to grab me and force me into submission. Luckily, a man on a jet ski caught their attention and scared them away moments before the Coast Guard rescued me,” she told local reporters.






A bloody vaginal discharge
The sexual assault of the herd of manatees on a human being could be explained by the menstrual cycle of the vacationer, believes Jane Keller, professor of biology at the University of South Florida.
When a female manatee goes into estrus, she is soon detected and pursued by numerous male manatees throughout the cycle. During that time, the female can mate with a dozen or more males in what is known as an estrus or mating herd. It is possible that the animals mistook the bloody vaginal discharge of the victim’s period as a female manatee in estrus,” she explains. “I would definitely suggest that women not go swimming during their menstrual cycle in areas where manatee mating occurs,” she warns.


Lucky to be alive
Tyler Smith, a 17-year-old lifeguard present during the sexual assault, believes the woman is lucky to be alive.
“We often see manatees nearby but it’s the first time they attack someone,” he admits. “There were so many manatees around her, I think I counted at least 10 of them. They were all fighting against each other to get on her back and hump her, it was like a big manatee gangbang. She is definitely lucky to be alive” he acknowledges, visibly distraught by the whole affair.
Although experts claim this is an unprecedented and isolated incident, increased security measures will be taken to prevent further occurrences of such tragic incidents, say local authorities.


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Old 03-07-2016, 05:00 PM   #24858
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Is that a growler behind the second monitor from the left?
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Old 03-07-2016, 05:05 PM   #24859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Yeah its not gunked, checked that as well. I've disassembled the entire head unit and cleaned what I could when I checked the flapper and greased the bushings to try to address the noise. Visual inspection and dryer duct brush confirm there is no blockage. Roof cap is also clear.

Ductwork will also be replaced. Its mostly metal sections that look like they were scabbed together by some tardbucket contractor who knew the homeowner would never go up there to check the work. I'll probably replace it with the semi-rigid 4" stuff from the Home Despot.

6 CFM was just an arbitrary number that looked silly, I really have no way to measure it



BRING IT! I've got insurance and experience with this.
Install this baby.

McMaster-Carr

800cfm. You'll just have to bush it down to 4".
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Old 03-07-2016, 05:07 PM   #24860
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Quote:
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Is that a growler behind the second monitor from the left?
It's from a whiskey distillery, but essentially, yes.
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