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How (and why) to Ramble on your goat sideways

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Old 03-02-2016, 10:42 AM
  #24801  
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pretty common.

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Old 03-02-2016, 11:56 AM
  #24802  
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Apparently, there is significant pent-up market demand for a single-use unlubricated monocle, which is finally being capitalized upon:





Gentleman's Single-use Unlubricated Monocles ? Hivemill
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Old 03-02-2016, 12:51 PM
  #24803  
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Related to above:


This is apparently a real product that you can actually buy.
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:33 PM
  #24804  
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:46 PM
  #24805  
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God forbid you're a relatively new UK resident and you're trying to get to your credit file. How many documents do you need
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:52 PM
  #24806  
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You moved?
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Old 03-02-2016, 02:01 PM
  #24807  
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In September 2014 yeah
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:11 PM
  #24808  
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Anyone know where I can find a 5/8 in barb ball valve? In the brass variety?

The internets is failing me
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:25 PM
  #24809  
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Originally Posted by Girz0r
Anyone know where I can find a 5/8 in barb ball valve? In the brass variety?
One of these: Milwaukee 1/2 in. Lead Free Brass Industrial Threaded FPT x FPT Ball Valve-118-2-12-HD - The Home Depot

plus two of these: Watts 5/8 in. x 1/2 in. Brass Barb x MIP Adapter-A493 - The Home Depot
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:35 PM
  #24810  
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
One of these:
plus two of these:
That was my next guess of what to do. Ty sir,



*

After doing much more research on how to solve my P0128 problem, I found the multiple threads on racer reroute

The quickest fix seems to be the valve idea of which I'll try to implement. Though moving the T to the lower rad will give me OEM like warm up times. But in texas, temps tend to get a bit crazy. Adding this 5/8in barb valve will allow me to still fully use overcooling as well as reducing the flow for just ODBII purposes. Hrmmmm.

Eventually, I'll go with bundy's recommendation

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Last edited by Girz0r; 03-02-2016 at 05:24 PM. Reason: ultimate cooling
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Old 03-02-2016, 06:39 PM
  #24811  
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Michigan State Police launch effort to educate left lane drivers | Fox17
Troopers from Rockford and Lakeview posts are on the lookout for "southpaw drivers" now through the end of April. Motorists stopped for a 'lane use violation' will be educated by the trooper on the law and how the motorist's actions are disrupting traffic flow.
It's always been illegal to left lane camp in this state, but they're deciding to do some cracking down. Way to go Michigan.
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Old 03-02-2016, 06:53 PM
  #24812  
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Why not just go with Hypers reroute?

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Old 03-02-2016, 07:04 PM
  #24813  
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Originally Posted by Girz0r
Are you planning to install this valve inside the passenger compartment, or get out and pop the hood twice each drive?

I ask because some Toyotas use a valve which is operated by a cable (attached to the "hot/cold" slider on the HVAC panel" to regulate water flow through the heater core. Not sure which ones exactly, but I know that the first-gen FWD Celicas (late 80s) used it. I assume that junkyards are brimming with them.


You can also buy normally-open solenoid operated valves which will work at engine-coolant temps. Drive it with the ECU, and you have an automatic, fully-tuneable bypass solution:

3/4'' 12V DC Normally Open Electric Solenoid Valve 12-Volts

3 4" 12V DC Normally Open Electric Brass Solenoid Valve 12 Volts DC N O Water | eBay
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:07 PM
  #24814  
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Joe P to the rescue! With an over complicated solution to a problem that shouldn't exist in the first place I love it.

Girzor, please do this, it would be awesome.

Then show begi and have them ship it with their reroutes.
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:17 PM
  #24815  
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
I ask because some Toyotas use a valve which is operated by a cable (attached to the "hot/cold" slider on the HVAC panel" to regulate water flow through the heater core. Not sure which ones exactly, but I know that the first-gen FWD Celicas (late 80s) used it. I assume that junkyards are brimming with them.

The SC300 has one -- I know this because a friend of mine who owned one had it fail and it was fairly expensive to replace.

--Ian
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:55 PM
  #24816  
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I'm pretty certain 90% of cars made before the 90s has a cable actuated valve for hvac temp control.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
I'm pretty certain 90% of cars made before the 90s has a cable actuated valve for hvac temp control.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:31 PM
  #24818  
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
I'm pretty certain 90% of cars made before the 90s has a cable actuated valve for hvac temp control.
Aside from Toyota, my experience with pre-90s cars is entirely German.

The Beetle has a cable-operated flapper whose sole function was to introduce just enough carbon monoxide into the cabin to make you stop caring about the fact that you are freezing and the windshield is frosted over.

And the rest of them seem to feature some sort of mechanism whereby the temperature **** adjusts the tension of a spring which governs the period of a pendulum excited by a piezoelectric crystal, which controls the setpoint of a vacuum regulator connected to thirty-seven dampers buried so far inside the dashboard that you have to go in through the tailpipe in order to figure out which one is stuck in the open position, with the result that your choices of cabin temperature are limited to "cold" and "damp," with the latter posing a roughly 1 in 4 chance of short-circuiting a $600 electrical component located, for reasons which cannot be adequately explained, inside the rear bumper.


Rounding the horn back into Ritalin Bay, there's nothing overly complicated about a solenoid controlled by the ECU which makes regulation of the cooling system automatic. At least, not compared to a valve which you have to remember to operate manually twice each drive-cycle.
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Old 03-02-2016, 09:02 PM
  #24819  
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Meh, it made sense at the time.



A proper reroute is the best solution. I have a skou unit on hand I plan to use.
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Old 03-02-2016, 09:12 PM
  #24820  
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My Tundra has a cable operated valve.
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