Jesus. ANOTHER ------- tire ruined. I have gone through 5 or 6 tires with this car and wheel combo in the last 3-4 years. Blown sidewall thanks to fucked up shitty roads with potholes and "repairs" that are capable of fully collapsing a 205/50 tire to the rim. Hit one last night, drove 30 miles on it today with it low (didn't know it until I got to where I was going. I did notice a bit heavy steering effort). Aired it up and drove it another 30 miles back home, half way home it was fully flat, and by the time I got home, it was smoking and I had people flashing and honking at me. Pulled into the yard and got the hose on it. Who the ---- needs a spare!?
I'm really thinking I'm just going to put the stock 14's back on it, and get some good high sidewall tires and just ------- drive it. I'm sick of this tire ----.
My plan for the next Miata is some 14x7's. Need more sidewall for these shitty Jackson roads more than I need track brakes.
That's the only thing. I was wanting to do big brakes, but I guess I can get by with new rotors and decent pads and some ss lines for now. I'm just going to use my stock hollow 5 spokes with some 195/60 tires. Probably some Star Specs. It won't handle the same, but it'll ride smoother and I hopefully won't have to deal with any more ------- cut sidewalls. 50 sidewall isn't even that low profile, and still I go through them nearly as often as oil changes. These were nice low mileage RE-11's too. Really nice tires. Good thing they have such stiff sidewalls, I used them like run flats for nearly 20 miles at speeds up to 60mph. By the time I got home the outer wall was separated about half way around.
Jesus Christ is ------- hot outside, and it's only 9:30. Got an early start, put the stock wheels/tires back on, and got the seats out and laid the FatMat down. Much quieter for sure, though I'm not sure about the heat. Trans tunnel still gets scorching hot even with two layers. The rattling gears from my worn out trans are now 80% quieter I would say. It's now just a faint background noise, instead of the primary noise, even over engine and exhaust.
They only have basic colors, primaries plus black, white and a few loud colors like green and purple. I'd really like to do flat white, but being as the car is already red, and I'm not doing door jambs and under hood, I'll just stay red so it sort of matches. From the other pictures I saw, if you do it right and lay the coats on evenly, it dries very smooth and flat, unlike most matte or satin finish paint which tends to look splotchy with an uneven finish. Most people actually use those Wagner electric paint guns, but I already have the air HVLP stuff, so I'll use that.
Plus the maintenance plasti dip is nearly nothing. Wash with soap and water, let air dry. Never have to wax or any of that ----. And if and when the stuff gets damaged beyond what you are happy with, peel it off that panel and repaint, no prep required, not even masking (except maybe the larger part of the windshield to not waste material). But being as it's a rubberized coating, it takes rocks better than most paint. Not sure how bird ---- and bugs would react to it though. Simple ----. So if you can live with a satin finish, I don't see why anyone wouldn't just use plasti dip. Especially on something like a track car, or a car not worthy of a multi thousand dollar paint job.
You also have a lot of high end cars using this stuff. Plenty of Audi and BMW's with plasti dip jobs.
PSS, you can get plasti dip clear. Still not glossy like paint, but much more shiny than just the standard matte.
\/ He said somewhere that he did his in too cold of temps with low humidity, so it came out a lot more rough texture than usual. So his isn't even typical results, though I think even his looks great.
AND! While I'm making a huge cluster ---- of a post. You could probably get great results with the clear as a cheap solution to spray on bra, as a good paint protection.