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Honest question regarding 24 hole = sub 150lb. Why? I bounce around various wheel manufacturers (zipp, november, amazon chinese) and they default to 24hole on rear wheels (carbon rims). The factory rear wheel (older Fulcrum S5) on my spesh was 24 straight pull/radial NDS with an aluminum rim.
Which ride is this? I'm only seeing two in august.
That's awesome. My Tarmac is the same weight stripped down (well, 17.7), not sure what I can change to lighten it up. Seeing 14-15lb tarmacs and I'm like whaaaaaat? My budget model frame is heavier than the s-works, but really? maybe tubulars and DA, I dunno.
Those are quite pretty, nice job.
Did you all see that Powertap is selling the GS (straight pull DTSwiss hub) for $300? PowerTap GS Hub | PowerTap
I got my 'new' old hardtail MTB built this weekend. Just waiting on the decals and I'll take some pics.
Finally, got my second strava KOM. Almost got a third, lost by a second. Next time!
I think that ride is called "Hillier than Thou" or something like that. It sounds brutal. Components wise, I still have the Oval 520 crank, tiagra cassette, but everything else is 105 5700 series. I hear some bad reviews on the 5700 but mine has been good so far.
Tested the carbon bars on my Fuel
before new bars and stemSo, what kind of "testing" have I done? Well, before I successfully completed a rather bumpy 7 mile ride yesterday in the 95* weather, I did a few tests of the bars in the parking lot. I stood over the front wheel facing the bars, grabbed on, and balanced myself on the bars (all 170lbs of me) for 5 seconds. I repeated this 5 times and everything was OK. Then, I set my fork into the stiffest setting and proceeded to do bunny hops as high as I could, first landing easily, and putting more and more force down as I landed. 10 jumps later, I felt confident with the bars and ventured into the woods.
I then decided to test the stem they sent me which I had put on the road bike. The one gripe with the stem is it seems undersized, so where the others I have easily slip over the steerer tube before being tightened down, this one was a really snug fit. In fact, the internal diameter of the stem is slightly smaller than the steerer tube, so it actually stretches apart a bit to slide on. Aside from this, everything torqued up nicely and the part looks fantastic. I did the same test on the road bike, balancing myself entirely over the bars, putting 170lbs of pressure through the stem. For good measure, I did little dips (bounced up and down on the stem with all my weight on it) to simulate what might happen in a hard out of saddle pedaling situation. No fuss, the stem held up great, 10 times.
I think that ride is called "Hillier than Thou" or something like that. It sounds brutal.
Ah! Just outside my search mile area. Thanks for the link!!
Components wise, I still have the Oval 520 crank, tiagra cassette, but everything else is 105 5700 series. I hear some bad reviews on the 5700 but mine has been good so far.
I LOVE the 5700 on my spesh, but the same components on the cannondale are just ok. More worn? dirty? different cables/housing? Hustlers dried man juice? EDIT: spesh has cheap KMC chain, cannondale has fancy DA chain. So there's that...
2016 Tiagra 4700 on Meg's spesh is supposed to be much nicer than 5700 but it's far from it. If I ever upgrade, my 5700 is going on her bike.
Honest question regarding 24 hole = sub 150lb. Why? I bounce around various wheel manufacturers (zipp, november, amazon chinese) and they default to 24hole on rear wheels (carbon rims). The factory rear wheel (older Fulcrum S5) on my spesh was 24 straight pull/radial NDS with an aluminum rim.
Design your wheel appropriately and you should have no problems.
Ah! Just outside my search mile area. Thanks for the link!!
I LOVE the 5700 on my spesh, but the same components on the cannondale are just ok. More worn? dirty? different cables/housing? Hustlers dried man juice? EDIT: spesh has cheap KMC chain, cannondale has fancy DA chain. So there's that...
2016 Tiagra 4700 on Meg's spesh is supposed to be much nicer than 5700 but it's far from it. If I ever upgrade, my 5700 is going on her bike.
Yea, I've been really happy with my setup, the only thing that's a bit clunky is the front shifts going from small to big ring, dropping down is quick, and the rear shifter is also very responsive. I was a bit uneducated when I was shopping for this stuff so when I saw a mostly 105 equipped bike for 1400 down from an MSRP of 1950, I thought it was a great deal. However, now similarly equipped bikes are popping up for a few hundred less, or with newer components. Not that I don't like my bike, but i do regret not researching more before I purchased. Still, I think it will be a while before I need to upgrade things or feel like I've outgrown them. It actually seems like the more I read about parts, the more worries or regrets I have, so sometimes not knowing is a good thing. On a recreational rider and not a tour or crit racer level it's all probably fantastic equiptment.
Down for a ride in the future? I'm probably closer to you than any other member posting in this thread.
New fancy roady Shimano shoes are sweet. New Speedplay zero stainless pedals are really really sweet.
Did my first serious group ride yesterday after a couple solo rides to grow accustomed to the new setup. Pulled twice for a couple miles each, earned props from ride lead and managed to finish with the A group. 38 miles at 18mph.
credit to the shoes/pedals or the quantity of riding lately? Lol.
New gear is fun but nothing compares to seat time, errr, I mean, saddle time.
Thoughts on a 2016 TREK Emonda SL6? Doesn't seem to be a ton of gains in the SLR besides the H1 fit which will be too agressive for me, but the H2 is still going to be a bit racier than the pure endurance geo I have now. I'd be bringing my Boyd wheels over, but it's an OCLV500 bike, FULL Ultegra 6800 grouppo. Should weigh in a smidge under 16lbs with my wheels on it. I would just need Boyd (or my LBS) to install a new freehub and re-dish the wheel. Boyd offers a free labor service for their 11 speed conversion, I just pay parts and return shipping.
My LBS has one in yellow my size that I'm going to talk to them tomorrow about, I just got my Fondo somewhat recently but quickly getting used to it, and starting to realize I made some mistakes and kind of jumped the gun on that purchase. I was also trying to be conservative with my back angle but am finding that going low isn't a problem for me, but when the bars move far away is when I have issues. If they work me a sweet deal, I might consider pulling the trigger.
Everything I'm reading on the Emonda is spectacular. I was going to try for the 105 equipped SL5 since it's on sale but they are all gone in a 56cm, and Ultegra would be a nice thing to have in the future. There doesn't seem to be a huge difference in the components between 5800 and 6800, but everything is slightly better, apparently shift feel and leverage is improved, and so is reliability.
I know nothing about TREK's, sorry. But that yellow is pretty.
My rockhopper is ready for it's first ride tonight. Went from 36lbs with the mongoose frame/stem/bars/seatpost to 28lbs with the specialized frame/easton carbon stem/bars/seatpost. I need suggestions on rim brake 1.125 straight steerer 26" front forks.
So I test rode a few today.
Emonda S5 54cm, definitely the right fit, but I only test rode it for size reference
Emonda SL6 56cm, too big, but man is it a rocket and so smooth even on 23c tires. I would be looking at this in a 54cm
The idea is to trade in my Fondo and add cash to step up to a different geometry. I will say I felt right at home on the 54cm Emonda, whereas my 55cm Fuji needed a 10mm shorter stem to fit me, and after I got home, I felt noticably less comfortable on my bike vs the 54cm Emonda I had just tried. They're giving me a very fair value for my current bike, and I have a few options. The Emonda SL6 that I was looking at would cost me $2000 out the door tax and all, plus trading my bike in.
The LBS also said they could get me into an Emonda SL5 w/ 105 5800 for $400 less than the Ultegra 6800 bike. On the flipside, I could also get on an Emonda SL8 with Dura Ace mechanical for $400-500 more than the Ultegra bike, but the SL8 is a whiteout (white frame, bars, tape, stem, etc.) and looks a bit girly color schemed to me, not that that's the ultimate deciding factor, but it just reminds me of something princessy.
What would you guys do? I know 105 and Ultegra are closer than ever performance and weight wise, so the gains there are minor. I feel like there is more to gain with DuraAce but that's over my budget considerably, I'm not nuts on the look of the bike, and after seeing that cracked crank arm here a few days ago, I feel weary.
Surprisingly with the 54cm, I was able to get the bars lower than the seat and still be more comfortable than I am with the bars and seat level on my bike, probably due to a better reach for my torso. The headtube on the 54cm Emonda is 155cm compared to a 190cm on my size 55 Fuji. That's a considerable difference.
So I test rode a few today.
Emonda S5 54cm, definitely the right fit, but I only test rode it for size reference
Emonda SL6 56cm, too big, but man is it a rocket and so smooth even on 23c tires. I would be looking at this in a 54cm
The idea is to trade in my Fondo and add cash to step up to a different geometry. I will say I felt right at home on the 54cm Emonda, whereas my 55cm Fuji needed a 10mm shorter stem to fit me, and after I got home, I felt noticably less comfortable on my bike vs the 54cm Emonda I had just tried. They're giving me a very fair value for my current bike, and I have a few options. The Emonda SL6 that I was looking at would cost me $2000 out the door tax and all, plus trading my bike in.
The LBS also said they could get me into an Emonda SL5 w/ 105 5800 for $400 less than the Ultegra 6800 bike. On the flipside, I could also get on an Emonda SL8 with Dura Ace mechanical for $400-500 more than the Ultegra bike, but the SL8 is a whiteout (white frame, bars, tape, stem, etc.) and looks a bit girly color schemed to me, not that that's the ultimate deciding factor, but it just reminds me of something princessy.
What would you guys do? I know 105 and Ultegra are closer than ever performance and weight wise, so the gains there are minor. I feel like there is more to gain with DuraAce but that's over my budget considerably, I'm not nuts on the look of the bike, and after seeing that cracked crank arm here a few days ago, I feel weary.
Surprisingly with the 54cm, I was able to get the bars lower than the seat and still be more comfortable than I am with the bars and seat level on my bike, probably due to a better reach for my torso. The headtube on the 54cm Emonda is 155cm compared to a 190cm on my size 55 Fuji. That's a considerable difference.
mechanical, just stay 105 unless you are trying to race or something. there are better bits in ultegra/DA but its not worth the upgrade price. new shimano cables if they use stock cables from the frame manufacturer is a good upgrade on the 11s mechanical groups.
suggestion is to be happy with what you have... until you aren't.... and then get something totally new.
True. Obvious answer is now obvious. But the right bike is not in the cards for now.
i mean the fork works...it moves up and down when you hit a bump. but it's just a heavy spring with a lot of preload, no dampening in there. Squish...SLAM. I see $30-50 10 year old manitou or rock shox on ebay with what looks like adjustment ***** top and bottom. I can swing $50 if they actually make a difference. Or if all shocks of that era suck I'll just live with my springs.
Originally Posted by shlammed
mechanical, just stay 105 unless you are trying to race or something. there are better bits in ultegra/DA but its not worth the upgrade price. new shimano cables if they use stock cables from the frame manufacturer is a good upgrade on the 11s mechanical groups.
i think this may be the reason why my road bike shifts better than my cross...road has shimano teflon cables/housing, CX has jagwire.
So I test rode a few today.
Emonda S5 54cm, definitely the right fit, but I only test rode it for size reference
Emonda SL6 56cm, too big, but man is it a rocket and so smooth even on 23c tires. I would be looking at this in a 54cm
The idea is to trade in my Fondo and add cash to step up to a different geometry. I will say I felt right at home on the 54cm Emonda, whereas my 55cm Fuji needed a 10mm shorter stem to fit me, and after I got home, I felt noticably less comfortable on my bike vs the 54cm Emonda I had just tried. They're giving me a very fair value for my current bike, and I have a few options. The Emonda SL6 that I was looking at would cost me $2000 out the door tax and all, plus trading my bike in.
The LBS also said they could get me into an Emonda SL5 w/ 105 5800 for $400 less than the Ultegra 6800 bike. On the flipside, I could also get on an Emonda SL8 with Dura Ace mechanical for $400-500 more than the Ultegra bike, but the SL8 is a whiteout (white frame, bars, tape, stem, etc.) and looks a bit girly color schemed to me, not that that's the ultimate deciding factor, but it just reminds me of something princessy.
What would you guys do? I know 105 and Ultegra are closer than ever performance and weight wise, so the gains there are minor. I feel like there is more to gain with DuraAce but that's over my budget considerably, I'm not nuts on the look of the bike, and after seeing that cracked crank arm here a few days ago, I feel weary.
Surprisingly with the 54cm, I was able to get the bars lower than the seat and still be more comfortable than I am with the bars and seat level on my bike, probably due to a better reach for my torso. The headtube on the 54cm Emonda is 155cm compared to a 190cm on my size 55 Fuji. That's a considerable difference.
SL6 with 6800. DA is not for people who are "looking for a deal". Ultegra is the work-horse for people who care about how a bike rides.
mechanical, just stay 105 unless you are trying to race or something. there are better bits in ultegra/DA but its not worth the upgrade price. new shimano cables if they use stock cables from the frame manufacturer is a good upgrade on the 11s mechanical groups.
I prefer Jagwire cables now because the Shimanos have a super-slick coating which is great until is wears-off and then clogs the housing.
SL6 with 6800. DA is not for people who are "looking for a deal". Ultegra is the work-horse for people who care about how a bike rides.
That's what I went with, a 54cm SL6 in the super awesome yellow color. It's built as a "climbing" bike, but the H2 fit is going to be a bit more aggressive than what I currently have, and the head tube is 155mm vs 190mm on the Fondo I currently have. It's also lighter. Most reviews and things I've read bill it as a great all around bike, very comfortable and planted in the corners, and great for climbing. Could be a great all rounder. One of the guys at the shop says he had one but his back couldn't tolerate it so he went to a Domane. It also only comes with 23c tires, so once I put the 25c on there with a lighter and wider and deeper wheel, I really expect it to be a great all-round bike. The Domane has appeal in the rough pavement/gravel/light trail use as seen in their TREK adverts, but I have no interest in doing any of those things on it. For anything other than smooth pavement I have the MTB, and I don't really care for gravel stuff, either fast road riding, or tighter/more technical trails on the MTB, nothing really in between. I find gravel to be mostly boring, and rather uncomfortable due to it's loose nature and the fact that I am always sliding over it.
I know nothing about TREK's, sorry. But that yellow is pretty.
My rockhopper is ready for it's first ride tonight. Went from 36lbs with the mongoose frame/stem/bars/seatpost to 28lbs with the specialized frame/easton carbon stem/bars/seatpost. I need suggestions on rim brake 1.125 straight steerer 26" front forks.
Some lightweight tires and tubes will wake that bike up and give it an even more nimble feel
Yes, pic is from the "wrong" side, I have sinned. Love everything but the saddle, though perhaps I need to break it in. Now just need to send my Boyds to get a freehub conversion and re-dish (they do free labor you just pay for parts), and this thing will really be sweeeeeet. Came with Bontrager R2 Hardcase tires, I guess they're decent, but I'm going to throw on my set of 23c 4000S2 onto these 622x17 wheels, and then put my 25c 4000s2 onto my 622x18.5 wheels. It honestly rides so nice with 23c tires I can't wait to see what it will do on 25s.
54cm size is definitely better for me (shipped with 90mm stem) vs my old 55cm which we put a 90mm on and still felt long.
Looking at geometries, here's what i found
Fuji: 55cm size has 56cm top tube, 190mm headtube, and 591mm stack, wheelbase 993
Trek: 54cm size has 54.3cm top tube. 155m headtube, and 555mm stack, wheelbase 981
Definitely happier with this machine, and on the trade deal, I really didn't do very badly. I did better than I would have if I bought a cheap road bike to feel it out (and probably would have hated the performance of it), and tried to sell that. All I lost was $200, and I got to ride a decent bike for 2 months and see that I liked road riding.
07-25-2016, 12:21 PM
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EDIT: spesh has cheap KMC chain, cannondale has fancy DA chain. So there's that...
