multimeters
#1
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multimeters
Ok guys,
So what should I look for in a multimeter?
Is this,
http://www.amazon.com/Corporation-73...573320&sr=8-18
really worth 10 times this?
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Aut...6573281&sr=1-1
So what should I look for in a multimeter?
Is this,
http://www.amazon.com/Corporation-73...573320&sr=8-18
really worth 10 times this?
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Aut...6573281&sr=1-1
#6
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I dunno about really cheap stuff I don't know how accurate it is. If the thing I'm measuring is between 0-1v and the slightest difference could mean my engine could blow up then I would want something at least decent...
#11
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I have a Fluke knockoff (branded Mastech) that I bought about 10 years ago for $30, and it has always worked fine. I wouldn't buy one that lacked autoranging for ACV, DCV, and Ω since you'll probably use those about 95% of the time. It should also be able to read current up to about 10A- more is better but less common in cheaper meters. I'm ---- when it comes to building stuff so I like to measure & verify each component before soldering it in, so some extra features can be helpful here. Mine will also measure capacitance and check diodes and transistors. You won't use those features as often, but they're nice to have. I also keep cheapo $3 HF meters in the car & truck, and they work fine for basic testing & troubleshooting.
#12
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The meter I use most often is a Fluke 77-I. Basically, it's almost identical to the first one you posted. I also have a couple of others including a Simpson 360, but the Fluke gets the most use.
With Fluke, you are to a certain extent paying for the name. They're been around since Marconi, and are pretty much the Ferrari of portable test equipment, right up there with Aglient and Tektronix. The Fluke will be somewhat more solidly constructed than most other handheld meters, and has a published calibration procedure, meaning then when you pass it on to your grandson in 50 years it'll still be accurate.
For the average hobbyist, the second one you posted will do just fine. It doesn't have a manual ranging feature, but most folks won't miss that. It does have a continuity beeper- it's the symbol furthest clockwise, at about the 4 o'clock position. It also lacks a capacitance meter, but that's the sort of thing you probably won't need unless you're troubleshooting circuit boards.
All in all, most any digital meter, even the cheap ones that Radioshack sells, will be adequate for the automotive hobbyist. ScottFW pretty much covered the bases- ACV, DCV, Ohms, Continuity, DCA. Those are the functions you need. Autoranging is nice, and I'd make sure to get one with replaceable probes. The ultra-cheap meters use probes that are permanently attached- not only can you not replace them when they break, but having the ability to remove the probe and install a different one (longer, having a captive clip, etc) is nice.
With Fluke, you are to a certain extent paying for the name. They're been around since Marconi, and are pretty much the Ferrari of portable test equipment, right up there with Aglient and Tektronix. The Fluke will be somewhat more solidly constructed than most other handheld meters, and has a published calibration procedure, meaning then when you pass it on to your grandson in 50 years it'll still be accurate.
For the average hobbyist, the second one you posted will do just fine. It doesn't have a manual ranging feature, but most folks won't miss that. It does have a continuity beeper- it's the symbol furthest clockwise, at about the 4 o'clock position. It also lacks a capacitance meter, but that's the sort of thing you probably won't need unless you're troubleshooting circuit boards.
All in all, most any digital meter, even the cheap ones that Radioshack sells, will be adequate for the automotive hobbyist. ScottFW pretty much covered the bases- ACV, DCV, Ohms, Continuity, DCA. Those are the functions you need. Autoranging is nice, and I'd make sure to get one with replaceable probes. The ultra-cheap meters use probes that are permanently attached- not only can you not replace them when they break, but having the ability to remove the probe and install a different one (longer, having a captive clip, etc) is nice.
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