Originally Posted by Miata-99
Heres A list of parts I will be ordering next week for my tsi.
1) Apexi S-AFC NEO fuel Controller
2) AutoMeter Phantom boost gauge
3) Hallman Es MBC
4) Walbro 255 fuel Pump
5) F1 stage 3 clutch
6) DSM EVO III o2 Housing(if i sell my miata clutch)
Soon To Come parts
1) DSM GT 16g Turboported + 34mm flapper
2) 2g install kit
3) Greddy Typer RS BOV kit
With those parts next week what would you recommend my psi be turned up to being safe?
OK, we will just go down the list to make it easier. It's your car and I respect that fact. These are just some things I've learned. Maybe they'll help. It's just advice. If you want to further discuss, please post back you specific question and I'll try to help.
This will limit your ability to make power in the long run. In the short run, you can control like ~ 660's or so, but this will give you abnormally high timing. More timing = less boost = slower.
Also, a SAFC will have the part throttle problems that other (previously mentioned) tuning devices won't ever have. (See above recommendation
) If you ever want to flow more fuel than (about) 650s and you will, I cannot recommend the SAFC. Just to be clear, 550's are the largest injectors recommended with a SAFC controlling them, although 660 is possible.
2. Boost gauge.
Good. Get it.
3. Hallman MBC.
Good. Get it.
A 255 will overrun your stock FPR. Your performance and mileage will suffer. Stock DSM A/F is quite rich. The 255 will make it worse. A 190 will flow sufficiently for that 16G, (more on that later) stock FPR is sufficient. If you want a 255, get a aftermarket FPR. (rec. Aeromotive).
I don't know. I will say that any clutch will work if you let it cool down between passes. Conversly, your new badass clutch will die a horrible death if you try hard enough.
6. EVO3 O2.
No. The o2 is the last restriction in the exhaust. Do you have 3" from the o2 back? Really, o2 is so far down the list on restrictions on a stock car, it's no way worth it.
Also, maybe this should have been first, but it wont fit. The EVO o2 is designed to fit the EVO3 downpipe, which is at a different angle than yours. If you want the evo3 o2, then you need the "RRE" custom made downpipe, or fab skills.
Soon to come:
1.16G GT + 34 flapper.
Oh man, sorry but... The GT is a ripoff. Literally and figuratively. They take the Mitsu turbo and copy it. Mitsu makes a good turbo. Don't save 50 bucks to get the copied one. Please don't
Next, the 34 flapper (they probably threw this in as a "free" mod?) The EVO 16G has a reputation for boost creep on 3" turboback cars. It's not BS. The solution used to be port the flapper to 34, well it dosen't work that well, if at all. What it does
do, however, is permently limit the maximum amount of boost the turbo will ever be able to run. Doesn't sound good does it?
Just FYI, the EVO 16G (on a turbo back car) likes to run about 18-20 psi.
2. Install kit.
Depends. The kit is overpriced, although there won't be any install snags.
3. Greddy RS.
I don't know. As long as it recirculates any bov with the exception of the stock one will work fine.
Lastly, the level of psi you can safely run depends on quite a few things such as: Your elevation. Some say "I run 18psi, I'm FINE!" well thats nice, but in Denver, CO. one can run a bit more boost than in Orange, CA.
There are so many variables, but i've already written a novel. If you want the safe number, buy a wideband. The LC or LM-1. There is no other way to tell. If you want the standard, blanket answer, it's 15 psi general consensus.