My TSI is awesome!!!!!!!
08-07-2006, 12:49 AM
#48
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Heres A list of parts I will be ordering next week for my tsi.
1) Apexi S-AFC NEO fuel Controller
2) AutoMeter Phantom boost gauge
3) Hallman Es MBC
4) Walbro 255 fuel Pump
5) F1 stage 3 clutch
6) DSM EVO III o2 Housing(if i sell my miata clutch)
Soon To Come parts
1) DSM GT 16g Turboported + 34mm flapper
2) 2g install kit
3) Greddy Typer RS BOV kit
With those parts next week what would you recommend my psi be turned up to being safe?
1) Apexi S-AFC NEO fuel Controller
2) AutoMeter Phantom boost gauge
3) Hallman Es MBC
4) Walbro 255 fuel Pump
5) F1 stage 3 clutch
6) DSM EVO III o2 Housing(if i sell my miata clutch)
Soon To Come parts
1) DSM GT 16g Turboported + 34mm flapper
2) 2g install kit
3) Greddy Typer RS BOV kit
With those parts next week what would you recommend my psi be turned up to being safe?
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08-07-2006, 03:00 AM
#52
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Location: Tucson "it's 110º" Arizona
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Originally Posted by Miata-99
Heres A list of parts I will be ordering next week for my tsi.
1) Apexi S-AFC NEO fuel Controller
2) AutoMeter Phantom boost gauge
3) Hallman Es MBC
4) Walbro 255 fuel Pump
5) F1 stage 3 clutch
6) DSM EVO III o2 Housing(if i sell my miata clutch)
Soon To Come parts
1) DSM GT 16g Turboported + 34mm flapper
2) 2g install kit
3) Greddy Typer RS BOV kit
With those parts next week what would you recommend my psi be turned up to being safe?
1) Apexi S-AFC NEO fuel Controller
2) AutoMeter Phantom boost gauge
3) Hallman Es MBC
4) Walbro 255 fuel Pump
5) F1 stage 3 clutch
6) DSM EVO III o2 Housing(if i sell my miata clutch)
Soon To Come parts
1) DSM GT 16g Turboported + 34mm flapper
2) 2g install kit
3) Greddy Typer RS BOV kit
With those parts next week what would you recommend my psi be turned up to being safe?
1. SAFC. This will limit your ability to make power in the long run. In the short run, you can control like ~ 660's or so, but this will give you abnormally high timing. More timing = less boost = slower.
Also, a SAFC will have the part throttle problems that other (previously mentioned) tuning devices won't ever have. (See above recommendation
) If you ever want to flow more fuel than (about) 650s and you will, I cannot recommend the SAFC. Just to be clear, 550's are the largest injectors recommended with a SAFC controlling them, although 660 is possible.2. Boost gauge. Good. Get it.
3. Hallman MBC. Good. Get it.
4.Walbro 255. A 255 will overrun your stock FPR. Your performance and mileage will suffer. Stock DSM A/F is quite rich. The 255 will make it worse. A 190 will flow sufficiently for that 16G, (more on that later) stock FPR is sufficient. If you want a 255, get a aftermarket FPR. (rec. Aeromotive).
5. Clutch I don't know. I will say that any clutch will work if you let it cool down between passes. Conversly, your new badass clutch will die a horrible death if you try hard enough.
6. EVO3 O2. No. The o2 is the last restriction in the exhaust. Do you have 3" from the o2 back? Really, o2 is so far down the list on restrictions on a stock car, it's no way worth it.
Also, maybe this should have been first, but it wont fit. The EVO o2 is designed to fit the EVO3 downpipe, which is at a different angle than yours. If you want the evo3 o2, then you need the "RRE" custom made downpipe, or fab skills.
Soon to come:
1.16G GT + 34 flapper. Oh man, sorry but... The GT is a ripoff. Literally and figuratively. They take the Mitsu turbo and copy it. Mitsu makes a good turbo. Don't save 50 bucks to get the copied one. Please don't
Next, the 34 flapper (they probably threw this in as a "free" mod?) The EVO 16G has a reputation for boost creep on 3" turboback cars. It's not BS. The solution used to be port the flapper to 34, well it dosen't work that well, if at all. What it does do, however, is permently limit the maximum amount of boost the turbo will ever be able to run. Doesn't sound good does it?
Just FYI, the EVO 16G (on a turbo back car) likes to run about 18-20 psi.
2. Install kit. Depends. The kit is overpriced, although there won't be any install snags.
3. Greddy RS. I don't know. As long as it recirculates any bov with the exception of the stock one will work fine.
Lastly, the level of psi you can safely run depends on quite a few things such as: Your elevation. Some say "I run 18psi, I'm FINE!" well thats nice, but in Denver, CO. one can run a bit more boost than in Orange, CA.
There are so many variables, but i've already written a novel. If you want the safe number, buy a wideband. The LC or LM-1. There is no other way to tell. If you want the standard, blanket answer, it's 15 psi general consensus.
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08-07-2006, 03:33 AM
#53
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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The S-afc is suppose to have maps on it already that re map it so that wouldnt be good even if i was just staying with the stock 450's for good? would you get it? what would you get in its place? I understand the fuel pump thing but if i stuck with the 450cc's would you still only recommend the 190? I think ill stick with that clutch unless i have extra money now. A no go on the evo o2 housing. What turbo would you recomend thenn? And what psi can I run off the parts i will get next week? just give me a standard.
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08-07-2006, 07:40 AM
#55
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Location: Tucson "it's 110º" Arizona
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Originally Posted by UofACATS
If you want to build your car "right," DSMlink is your first purchase. Just save the money and do it. http://www.dsmlink.com
When you start with a tuning and logging device, your efficiency will be maximized. Your car will always be "fast for the mods." You'll KNOW what's happening under the hood.
Of course the SAFC will "work," just not as well. The main benefit of a piggyback controller is running larger injectors.
Without a FPR, get the 190. It'll flow plenty for the 450s.
Misunderstanding? Let me clarify. A Evo3 16G will bolt up to your stock manifold and o2 housing. You don't need (and can't use) an Evo3 o2 housing.
For a street/track turbo I love the Evo3 16G. Having said that, the turbo shines at higher boost, 20+ psi. If you want to stay around 15 psi, the Evo3 16G is the wrong choice because it's inefficient at that level. A small 16G would be much better. My recommendation is just to hold off on the turbo until you need it. Same with the clutch.
Aside from the: Boost gauge, MBC, and BOV, I'd buy DSMlink and a cheap laptop (serial port). Log-on to the DSMlink forums. Your new helpful tuning advice source. Awesome source.
Install it, do a couple test pulls, see what your car is doing. There is a lot of power hidden in a stock tune.
Install MBC and start raising the boost. From 11 to 15 psi is a kick-*** feeling. It'll be the last time you will get so much out of a simple, cheap mod. Enjoy it, it'll put a smile on your face for sure.
Next mods are your choice. Best is 3" exhaust, 3" downpipe. That clears a major restriction. Next up, all that crappy I/C piping, and the SMIC that can't flow worth a damn. I'm assuming you have an intake?
It's an endless cycle.
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08-07-2006, 11:38 AM
#57
Originally Posted by Miata-99
no need to argue, im not going to anymore I like both cars just giving my opinion what i really want to do is race this dumbass I know who has a s-13 with a sr20det i looked they only pump out 205 hp at the crank and he says he has 340whp man i want to race him, it would be close.
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08-07-2006, 11:48 AM
#58
Originally Posted by Miata-99
Heres A list of parts I will be ordering next week for my tsi.
1) Apexi S-AFC NEO fuel Controller
2) AutoMeter Phantom boost gauge
3) Hallman Es MBC
4) Walbro 255 fuel Pump
5) F1 stage 3 clutch
6) DSM EVO III o2 Housing(if i sell my miata clutch)
Soon To Come parts
1) DSM GT 16g Turboported + 34mm flapper
2) 2g install kit
3) Greddy Typer RS BOV kit
With those parts next week what would you recommend my psi be turned up to being safe?
1) Apexi S-AFC NEO fuel Controller
2) AutoMeter Phantom boost gauge
3) Hallman Es MBC
4) Walbro 255 fuel Pump
5) F1 stage 3 clutch
6) DSM EVO III o2 Housing(if i sell my miata clutch)
Soon To Come parts
1) DSM GT 16g Turboported + 34mm flapper
2) 2g install kit
3) Greddy Typer RS BOV kit
With those parts next week what would you recommend my psi be turned up to being safe?
Let me just save you the effort on alot of things. It sounds like your wasting alot of money. For the horsepower numbers you are trying to push, and all the crap your buying (16g, 2g installkit, which is a ripoff/joke, and o2 housing) you can simply buy a 50 trim kit (or maybe a FP turbo) and tubular manifold. If you want real numbers (as it seems you do since you want to take on cars with 350+ hp) you have to buy real parts. That also will allow you to run the GM MAF setup with the 3" intake. I dont know what mods the car already has, but unless you have a 3" exhaust (see thermal) then you probably are wasting your time. Again dsmtuners .com has staged upgrade paths that should help you. Finally, please do not forget to re-wire the fuel pump. I attached a pic of my 98
Things to pray for prevention of in your nightly prayers are: Transmission, Transfer Case, Differential, and of course, crankwalk.
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