turbo miata vs 360 spyder?
#42
For your sake, I hope it doesn't grenade at a high rate of speed. That'd suck.
Here's the vid cam to broadcast this feat to the world.
Here's the vid cam to broadcast this feat to the world.
#43
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Brainy you slack bastard. You're worse about shipping **** than I am!! Thanks for the offer, but I'll get it covered on my end.
I have a Samsung miniDV-some ****-er-other camera that I can let someone hold, worse case. I could always hook it to my standalone dvd burner, and then load the dvd into the computer. Problem solved.
Maybe this will motivate me to going to the 7" rear. Right now, I can tell you I'm anything but motivated to work on a miata now...
I have a Samsung miniDV-some ****-er-other camera that I can let someone hold, worse case. I could always hook it to my standalone dvd burner, and then load the dvd into the computer. Problem solved.
Maybe this will motivate me to going to the 7" rear. Right now, I can tell you I'm anything but motivated to work on a miata now...
#49
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the thing is built already, two hours tops...especially since he knows his way around the car....
Ben...this is a good angle...https://www.miataturbo.net/braineack/videos/1strun.wmv
#51
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only need new ones if they are the rx7 ones....that rear was already on a miata right?
- you just gotta jack it up pull the wheels, drive shaft & axles
- unbolt the two bolts on the PPF, unbolt the PPF spacer from the diff
- unbolt the two plates over the mounts, unbolt the diff from the body mounts
- drop diff
- jack up new diff
- bolt up mounts, reinstall plates
- reinstall axles (if 1-piece design you may have to drop exhaust and insert axles before bolting diff up, then ease it up and bolt.)
- bolt back up the ppf stuff
- install new driveshaft
- torque down on the axle nuts the best you can
- reinstall wheels, drop car, torque axle nuts.
#54
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haha Jay
I don't think it will be that bad. The control arms were a PITA on the parts car (******* thing was in Germany then New England) but the diff isn't frozen in. It's still bolted up to the car, but the driveshaft, ppf, and hubs are on the ground. My 91 is a summer driven GA car, so no rust issues there.
I don't think it will be that bad. The control arms were a PITA on the parts car (******* thing was in Germany then New England) but the diff isn't frozen in. It's still bolted up to the car, but the driveshaft, ppf, and hubs are on the ground. My 91 is a summer driven GA car, so no rust issues there.
#59
the nuts and bolts are the easy part my frigin axle was seized in the hub and had to be pressed out via a 40 ton press. GL man it is simple and easy swap so long as nothing sticks. Also yes just reuse the stock c clips. Brain i only have tranny leak issues now. Damn thing is weird comming out of the fill plug. You can actualy do it all without taking the wheels of the car. so long as nothing is seized