wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Hi all, wanted to introduce myself.

I’ve been building up a sleepy old 91 BRG I picked up a couple years ago for $2500, And weather permitting, it’s been my DD. It’s the second miata I’ve owned, the first being a stripped out old track rat that I rattle canned OD green. When the weather is too nasty to go top down, I drive an 04 STI built up to 350 whp as my rainy day commuter. Honestly though, something about the miata just makes it more fun to drive. I’ve just got to the point where I want my favorite car to also live closer to 10lbs/whp… I never really seem to have the time to get involved in any auto sports, so I’m really just targeting a street build for the car. I live about an hour north of Seattle on 6 acres, so those rainy days are pretty damn frequent. I’m an aerospace engineer, and I mostly design hand tools for my day job. I built a DIYPNP this winter, and I’m slowly learning how it all works. I’ve got the old rented mule of a 1.6 running pretty nice with a basic I/H/E NA running WB02, IAT, and VTPS. I’m gearing up for a 1.8 swap & turbo build in the coming months. I scored a motor & torsen out of a 94 laguna blue & tan with 102k miles a couple weeks ago, and I’m doing a seal refresh on the motor right now. I put a deposit down on one of Lars’ MK kits, and I’m in the process of putting together my shopping list for the rest of my build. I’ll be running the motor NA for a couple months to sort things out.

The current car setup is as follows:

FM VMAXX classics
Poly bushings
Depowered rack
FM frame rails
Momo steering wheel
15x7 advanti storms
No rear sway
10 lb 1.6 flywheel

I’ll be starting a build thread & get some pictures up in the coming weeks.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

this is what it looked like shortly after I bought it. I had it on some nb struts briefly, which is why it looks like a 4x4.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

after pulling 5 miata motors, I fall firmly into the "pull it all" camp.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Driving with one of my German Shepherds, head over the windshield.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

This was my first miata that I drove when I lived in socal. It had started life as a '90 mariner blue, but by the time I got it, it was a hacked up primer gray track rat. I got rid of the 30 lb 18's it came with, put some kyb's & poly bushings on it, rattle canned it OD, & called it a day. I called this car "the ugly stick".

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Welcome to the forum. It sounds like you have a great start on everything already. Are you interested in doing track days?

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I've been curious. I hear there's also a bimmer club that runs a pretty good autox club at evergreen speedway, which is about 7 miles from me. honestly, i just need to find some time!
I have been hesitant to get into anything which requires a roll bar. I just don't think it would be safe on the road without a helmet. I'd probably also need to address my stock 9" brakes...

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Here's the car on grey advanti storms.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Welcome to the site wackbards, thanks for joining up!

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Use the special high density sfi approved roll bar padding and it will be safe. If you have seen any videos of Miata roll overs or seen pics of the windshield folded flat level with the tops of the doors and trunk lid, you'd quickly choose to have one. You can't get out of the car if it is flat upside-down like that, even if you survive.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

it's a long running debate, and i'm not yet convinced. Even with a foamectomy, most of my skull sits above the headrest. I feel like a roll bar would put me at risk of head injury in a fender bender. It's certainly something I've agonized over. Until the time comes when I am using the car for something other than DD, I'm going no bar.

On a separate topic, I could use advice on coolant rerouting. I have the engine out right now, but coin is getting tight. what's the consensus? Do you consider it a nice to have, or a must have for a ~200whp goal DD in temperate climate with a non-water cooled turbo?949 Racing

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

The coolant reroute really makes a difference with even temperature across the engine. You can encounter detonation on the rear cylinders more easily than the front otherwise, at any power level. And the engine will definitely cool better in all cases.

Scaxx

Hey another person from Seattle! There's also the autox in Bremerton if you haven't looked into that already! Although that's a bit of a drive if you're coming from the monroe area. But nevertheless, another option!

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Alright, you're selling me on the coolant reroute. I'm thinking about freeze plugging & removing the whole coolant neck if I do a coolant reroute. Now I understand I will need to swap around thermo sensors & jumper a wire in the MS as part of the 1.6/1.8 swap, but does the MS still rely on the coolant line to the ICV, or can I just delete & cap?

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

bought bits from begi for a reroute. sure hope they don't actually charge me $38 in shipping for a handful of dodads...

x_25

Should be able to get the MS to run the fans and ditch the thermoswitch.

The ICV doesn't need the coolant lines. They are there to keep it from icing up when the conditions are just wrong. The air valve needs the coolant lines to work as it is a wax motor that ups the idle when the coolant is cold (is that a thing 1.8s still havr or no?). We deleted that whole loop off my friend's car and it is running just fine.

Looks like you have a nice build planned! Welcome!

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! I just decided to just cap the water neck, because lazy. Not as clean, but saves some time.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

hey Scaxx, keep me in the loop if you're looking for noobs. I'm also on the lookout for a tuner in the area if you have any recommendations.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

Walll, I guess I can't just post car pics on this forum. This is Chuck Norris the Manx. He's a redhead from Texas with murder in his eye. Just don't ask him for help with your car. Kitteh don't wrench. That's dog work.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

I haven't started a proper build thread yet, so I'll post these questions here for now.

I'm gearing up for my first 1.6-->1.8 swap. I have two areas where I'm fuzzy on the best path forward:

1) injector harness. I'm putting in 610 flowforce injectors and adding the sequential injection module to my MS, but I have 3 wiring options. I have an injector harness from a batch injection 1.6, one from a seq injection 1.6, and the harness that came with the 94 1.8. I'm thinking the easiest thing to do would be to use the 1.8 harness & find the matching connector from the car side of the harness (but I don't know where to source one).

2) ignition coils. I have both a 1.6 coil and a 94 coil, as well as a FM coil adapter bracket. It sounds like swapping the 1.6 coils into the FM bracket is the easiest. I can't visualize why in the hell I would need to swap around signal wires per the FM engine swap instructions though. Maybe it will become clear when I assemble?

Advice welcome! I'm just killing time going medieval on a seized wheel bearing/CV while I'm held for parts, and all tricks & tips from folks who have made the swap are appreciated.