Erat

iTrader: (5)

You still north of 59? I don't venture out on that side of town. Pretty much never, unless i'm going shooting at the pit.

2000wrx

I almost ON M59 nearish to 94 But work in Warren.

I am thinking...

2000.00ish budget for this year.

MS ECU
replace open diff. with Torsen (open to suggestions here)
new bushings
FM butterfly brace
Dial everything in.

as a very general and open plan? I think the MS is a must to getting the most out of my hardware. The turbo is a garrett ar 60 24 I think... I dont know the specs, but I think from what little I have read that I should be good for a safe 12psi out of it. I am only seeing 8psi on the tune thats on the car now.

If I can get this batch of stuff done this year, I'd like to think about a "budget" engine build shooting for 250-300rwhp. (I can spend winter trolling and searching threads til my eyes bleed.) and maybe a 6mt next year

I am so glad I have this site, the help and knowledge here is amazing.... just being patient and diggin shows sooo much. Already found a fix for a coolant leak that is common on the FM kit... just poking around and there it was. LOVE MT!!!

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Get the MS ECU, if you're feeling spendy have a reverant build you one and put a base map on it for you.

Spend as much time as you need tuning it. You'll need to know what size injectors you have. The turbo is probably a 2560. Once you get to tuning it and know what size injectors you have you can go from there. Find other weak links ect.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

It should be a straightforward swap. T1 and T2 have different torque bias. The rule of thumb is T1 for auto-X, T2 for street driving. Some people use the clutch type diff from a non-turbo RX7.

2000wrx

Wondering about the MS vs Link.... I asked in the LINK section as well...

thought since you guys have been so helpful i'd ask here too.

Is the link that bad? FM rates the kit I have at 230-265 rwhp... with the link... I know the MS will be better for my long term goals... but would it be smart to just learn the link and dial it in or just take the plunge now and don't look back.... if so why?


Thanks again!!!

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Take the plunge. The 'difficult' parts of tuning an MS are the things the stock ECU handles for you with the Link. Idle control, warmup enrichment, cold starts, etc. The Link won't teach you those. For tuning fuel, MS has an autotune feature, so you barely have to do that.

That said, I barely had to put any work into any of those 'difficult' things, as the basemap worked almost perfectly out of the box for me. I think accel enrichments, priming pulse, and cranking PW were pretty much the only things I had to mess with to get the car running at near-stock driveability (and autotuning the VE table of course).

2000wrx

Nice, I see you went with the reverent MS3 basic... I just sent a PM to him a couple of days ago.... doing my research, so much to learn.

Thanks

Pitlab77

iTrader: (3)

The old link was not that bad IMHO.

Also I remember setting up idle, warm up, cold start on my old LINK ECU.I think you are thinking of the NB link.

BRGSEinTX

God that has got to be one of the sexiest Miatas Ive ever seen! Total homo, I'd have sex with that (like Mercury Mistress style!)

And I thought a properly set up BRG NA looked good...

2000wrx

Well, tonight it bit me, died feet from the driveway.... all the lights went dead, the gauges went dead...

Push the start button the it cranks but nothing... betting its a wire or connection... to what and where I have no idea. I HATE other peoples projects!!!

Starting to think S2000 again. Grrrrrr I hate cars sometimes.

javierf

I also have an m edition (94 though), and noticed yours have NB dash, center console and door panels!!!

Rwdturbo747

Brought this back from the dead huh get that post count up my man!

javierf

That wasn't the reason, but here is another one...