Next in line NOOB
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: In a van by the river
Posts: 49
Total Cats: -31
Seriously, those wheels are probably costing you 30-40HP (depending upon gear) and are trashing your handling and braking. You could sell those to some poor, ignorant bastard, buy something decent and pocket the difference. Advertise them to anyone with an unusual love for the letter "Z."
I would not let my daughter drive on wheels like those. Stopping matters. Just sayin'.
I would not let my daughter drive on wheels like those. Stopping matters. Just sayin'.
I graduated from Jackson in 1984.
#23
Unless you're hitting a track or autocross, you'll be waiting a long time for a Miata to wear out its tires. They're really light. I usually end up swapping based upon age rather than wear. My dad worked for BFG. He gives me a hard time when tires get around 4 years old.
Looks like you're having a nice Spring up there. Big hail and tornadoes down here.
#25
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: In a van by the river
Posts: 49
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I was driving it around today and I was wrong about the high reading. It's doing that when I'm going fast and let off the gas. The engine compression slows it down and the gauge jumps to 21+. During acceleration it's rarely above 13. I haven't tried to punch it hard lately but it seems to actually drop to around 10-11 when I'm accelerating. I need to find some open road where I can push it and let you know what it's doing.
#27
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: In a van by the river
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Good to know. I've got a PC and a whole bunch of stuff but haven't taken it out of the box of "stuff" yet. Last night it got really hard to shift, like the clutch wasn't releasing all the way. It went away itself, but came back again before I got home. I'm guessing it's a hydro clutch.
#28
Yes. The slave cylinder is the most common wear item, although it might also be the master. On the slave, you can squeeze the rubber rod cover to see if it's leaking. Leaks from the master will be harder to detect unless it's a large leak. It doesn't take much leakage to make the clutch disengagement soft, especially with a stiffer clutch like the ACT Stage 1 (excellent clutch, BTW). There is also a clutch adjustment at the pedal. Your car apparently hasn't been driven much, so you need to be watchful for problems related to dried-out seals.
Fortunately, the clutch master and slaves are dirt cheap and easy to replace. That's what you'll find about the Miata. In general, robust. When items go bad, they will be common wear items, will be inexpensive and easy to service. It out-Jeeps a Jeep.
I'm well past 200K in mine.
There is an OEM Field Service Manual in a sticky here (https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...-manual-48633/). Recommend that you download it. It's an indexed PDF. Very useful.
Fortunately, the clutch master and slaves are dirt cheap and easy to replace. That's what you'll find about the Miata. In general, robust. When items go bad, they will be common wear items, will be inexpensive and easy to service. It out-Jeeps a Jeep.
I'm well past 200K in mine.
There is an OEM Field Service Manual in a sticky here (https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...-manual-48633/). Recommend that you download it. It's an indexed PDF. Very useful.
Last edited by hornetball; 05-18-2013 at 10:24 AM.
#30
If you're accelerating and its reading 13 its too lean. I'd say get to about 4k in 4th and lay into it. It should dip down lower (richer) at first then level out around 12-12.2. Then when you let off it will skyrocket which is whst you want to happen since the injectors shut off.
Ditto on the suggestions to ditch the wheels. Slap some 15s on there and a nice thick tire and it will handle and ride better.
Ditto on the suggestions to ditch the wheels. Slap some 15s on there and a nice thick tire and it will handle and ride better.
#31
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: In a van by the river
Posts: 49
Total Cats: -31
If you're accelerating and its reading 13 its too lean. I'd say get to about 4k in 4th and lay into it. It should dip down lower (richer) at first then level out around 12-12.2. Then when you let off it will skyrocket which is whst you want to happen since the injectors shut off.
Ditto on the suggestions to ditch the wheels. Slap some 15s on there and a nice thick tire and it will handle and ride better.
Ditto on the suggestions to ditch the wheels. Slap some 15s on there and a nice thick tire and it will handle and ride better.
#34
Turbo cars usually have a a lot more carbon deposits in the oil, so don't be too alarmed by how dark it may be. I know I was with my first turbocharged vehicle. Also, I'm not sure if it applies to all turbo motors, but with the subarus I've owned they tend to use a little more oil so you have to keep a good eye on the oil level between oil changes.
#36
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: In a van by the river
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I'll have to keep it in mind for the next time. I just used a 10/30 full synthetic. I religiously change my oils and filters at 5K. It's the cheapest insurance you can buy for your vehicle. And I always use WIX filters.
#37
The only thing a bit different with a turbo is the amount of heat the oil can see in the CHRA. Using synthetic (as you did) helps the oil resist coking in those passages.
+1 on the diesel oil. Miata is a flat tappet engine. It really likes the diesel formulation of anti-wear additives (which have disappeared in the latest gasoline oils).
+1 on the diesel oil. Miata is a flat tappet engine. It really likes the diesel formulation of anti-wear additives (which have disappeared in the latest gasoline oils).
#38
The only thing a bit different with a turbo is the amount of heat the oil can see in the CHRA. Using synthetic (as you did) helps the oil resist coking in those passages.
+1 on the diesel oil. Miata is a flat tappet engine. It really likes the diesel formulation of anti-wear additives (which have disappeared in the latest gasoline oils).
+1 on the diesel oil. Miata is a flat tappet engine. It really likes the diesel formulation of anti-wear additives (which have disappeared in the latest gasoline oils).
#39
My G8 lost its cam. It's the roller-tappet L76 engine with the lifters that can shut off cylinders for mileage. GM replaced the cam and all lifters under warranty. Common problem (not just G8s, but Silverados, Escalades, etc.).
So, screw it. G8 gets Rotella now. I'll give up 1mpg to avoid putting water in the engine.
So, screw it. G8 gets Rotella now. I'll give up 1mpg to avoid putting water in the engine.
#40
My G8 lost its cam. It's the roller-tappet L76 engine with the lifters that can shut off cylinders for mileage. GM replaced the cam and all lifters under warranty. Common problem (not just G8s, but Silverados, Escalades, etc.).
So, screw it. G8 gets Rotella now. I'll give up 1mpg to avoid putting water in the engine.
So, screw it. G8 gets Rotella now. I'll give up 1mpg to avoid putting water in the engine.
Was it confirmed that it was from the oil???