Alternator Control box for standalone MS install for NB
#42
I meant the warning light circuit.
Thx, I'm working on a how-to. It's up on my Westfield site but I'm only halfway done. I'll post it here when it finished. As I have no access to the car right now it might take a month or 2 though.
Jason's is perfect, it's just that I'm trying to install all circuits (alternator, CKP & CMP, EBC, Fans, Vics and WI) on the MS board and often that means stacking components in an unusual way. Not so here .
Jason's is perfect, it's just that I'm trying to install all circuits (alternator, CKP & CMP, EBC, Fans, Vics and WI) on the MS board and often that means stacking components in an unusual way. Not so here .
Last edited by WestfieldMX5; 01-26-2009 at 04:26 AM.
#43
I'd have room in mine as well for that, though there's a bit of weird stacking. If I had it to do over, I'd leave off the EBC, which sucks horrifically. Maybe the new PID code on MS-II works, haven't tried it yet, if it did, EBC would be a nice thing to have. Certainly can't complain about spool on my ball-and-spring, though. I don't remember where, but I put mine on the heat sink, replacing some unused thing, threaded it into some of the circuitry at the DB-37 end of the board. Even the trace sizes made sense.
#46
Here's the proto circuit with
- 2 programmable outputs for fans and vics
- knock input for knocksenseMS
- alternator field
- 2 active low inputs for launch control and table switching. Altough the manual says otherwise, JS7/PE0 is for launch control. R1/PE1 is for table switching! You need to free up 2 additional spare ports on the processor if you want to use these options.
There's not enough spare pins on the DB37 for all circuits, so I added an old chassis mount keyboard connector. I labeled the active low inputs AL1 and AL2.
There's not enough room for a 2N2222A (metal can) so use PN2222A (plastic) or ZTX450 instead. These are direct swaps.
- 2 programmable outputs for fans and vics
- knock input for knocksenseMS
- alternator field
- 2 active low inputs for launch control and table switching. Altough the manual says otherwise, JS7/PE0 is for launch control. R1/PE1 is for table switching! You need to free up 2 additional spare ports on the processor if you want to use these options.
There's not enough spare pins on the DB37 for all circuits, so I added an old chassis mount keyboard connector. I labeled the active low inputs AL1 and AL2.
There's not enough room for a 2N2222A (metal can) so use PN2222A (plastic) or ZTX450 instead. These are direct swaps.
Last edited by WestfieldMX5; 02-14-2009 at 08:19 PM.
#48
I haven't actually decided. I think I'm gonna use the MS circuit with the oem '99 sensor. I have access to a Link Map sensor (with built in knock circuit), so I might reverse engineer that at some point. If all that fails, I can always get KnocksenseMS, but I'm not convinced it's better though.
#53
With some mods yes.
The circuit is meant to emulate a GM style tuned piezo knock sensor.
IOW you take a 99/00 knock sensor, it filters and amplifies the signal. It is tuned to 13 khz IIRC, which is the peak frequency that I noticed when I did recordings of knock.
Started a new thread in ECU's.
The circuit is meant to emulate a GM style tuned piezo knock sensor.
IOW you take a 99/00 knock sensor, it filters and amplifies the signal. It is tuned to 13 khz IIRC, which is the peak frequency that I noticed when I did recordings of knock.
Started a new thread in ECU's.
#55
You can change the 3k resistors to 3.3k, and the 30k to 33k.
However the 48.7k needs to remain 48.7k - you can substitute this with a 51k in parallel with 1Meg - but if you use 5% instead of 1% resistors where specified, test that the voltage regulation setpoint is accurate, at 14.1 to 14.4V.
However the 48.7k needs to remain 48.7k - you can substitute this with a 51k in parallel with 1Meg - but if you use 5% instead of 1% resistors where specified, test that the voltage regulation setpoint is accurate, at 14.1 to 14.4V.
#60
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Jason's circuit never worked for me. I rechecked the pcb I made 100 times and I still couldn't find a glitch. So obviously enough, I did what every geek should do, I made my own PID controller using a microcontroller and a 2x16 LCD. Did I say that it is totally tunable? Pics in the afternoon.
Jim
Jim