Originally Posted by GT3man2001

Kind wish I had kept my last car. Nissan crowd > Miata crowd.

Originally Posted by hustler

Idle Control valves
As long as the MS ECU has been upgraded internally (see the main MSnS Extra Website) with a high powered transitor in place of the
standard idle transistor it can control most idle valves as long as they are NOT stepper motors (these have 4 wires/connectors) Most 2 or 3
wire valves (e.g. Bosch 0280 140 505)
Idle control can be used in B&G on/off, Warm up, or Closed-Loop Modes.
B&G on/off simply opens or closes a valve to provide additional air below a temperature threshold
Warm up mode linearly varies the duty cycle of a 2 or 3 wire solenoid actuated valve to provide additional air during cold startup, while
gradually scaling down the duty cycle until the engine is warm.
Closed-loop mode attempts to keep the engine idling at a set rpm by using PWM with a 2 wire solenoid actuated valve, and actively varying
the duty cycle to maintain rpm.
Warmup Settings:
Lower temp idle frequency is the higher duty cycle required to start and run a cold engine. (115 is a good starting point)
Upper temp idle frequency is the duty cycle the idle valve will be scaled down to as the engine warms up. ( try zero here)
These two values are linearly interpolated from one to the other starting from the lower engine temp to the higher engine temp (fast idle temp,
and slow idle temp.)
Idle valve frequency This is generally something most people will not need to mess with, however, different idle valves are designed to work
best at specific operational frequencies. Note that the Frequency of actuation is 1000 / this value (255 is a good starting point)
Please Note: true DUTY CYCLE% = Lower or Upper dc * 100 / Idle Valve Frequency value example Freq value - 200 = 50 hz operation, a
DC value of 80 = 80*100/200 = 40% true duty cycle
While most valves operate at 100 hertz, some older style 2-wire valves will work better at frequencies as low as 39 hertz. There is an inverse
relationship between frequency of operation and control precision because of the algorithm Used to control the PWM output. Lower
frequencies have more steps between dc values. 100hz operation has 100 steps and therefore has 1% control steps. 50hz operation has 200
steps and has 0.5% duty cycle steps and that is why the duty cycle values put into MT need to be double the true DC% value.
Some valves may emit a buzzing sound which can be eliminated by increasing the frequency above 100 hertz.
There is a formula for modifying the idle valve frequency. The formula is '10000/desired frequency = x where x is is the variable you input in
megatune. For example '100' would be 100 hertz, and '50' would be 200 hertz
Closed Loop Settings:
This is fairly experimental code, but with careful manipulation of variables it should be possible to produce a stable idle.
Cranking (dc) is the duty cycle required at cranking. (try Zero here)
Minimum (dc) is the duty cycle slightly lower than a warm idle dc when regulated.
Closed (dc) is the duty cycle where the valve closes.
The values here follow the rule above and are related to the frequency selected and are not true DC except when the idlefreq values is 100.
Some valves are normally closed (use 0 here) others require a certain DC to clsoe and will regulate above this value. Bosch 2 wire valves are
normally open, close at 25% and regulate at about 40%.
Fast Idle RPM is the idle target for the engine at, or below the fast idle temperature.
Slow Idle RPM is the idle target for the engine at, or above the slow idle temperature (fully warmed up).
The two RPM set points are linearly interpolated between the two temperatures to provide a smooth transition during warmup
TPS Threshold is the point above which the idle valve closes in ADC (as it is no longer needed).
Idle Activation (rpm) is 'how many rpm' above idle that the idle valve returns to operation after the throttle has been opened and closed again.
This follows the idle speed as it is interpolated from Fast Idle RPM to Slow Idle RPM
Dashpot Settle is the wait time required after a dashpot event for the rpms to settle below the idle activation point. After a dashpot it is
possible that rpms will overshoot the activation point and this is the time required to settle below activation point.
Dashpot Adder (dc) is the dashpot duty cycle added to the last controlled idle duty cycle which allows it to recover to a nice idle with
minimal overshoot. These values should be low: 1-5 DC
Deadband range This is a range of rpm that you do not want it to bother changing duty cycle to regulate idle.
30 to 50 rpm seems to be good here try smaller values unitl it seems stable.
Adaptive idle control This controls the time between idle control events. The goal is to have a Slow Recovery which is tuned to the engine's
time constant at idle. You do not want it to hunt nor have falling idle speed. The Fast Recovery is how fast you want it to recover to a decent
idle when the idle speed is higher or lower than the target this can be tuned for startup and to see what is needed to recover if idle speed drops
significantly below target for example when the A/C or electric fans kick on and the idle drops below target.
The rpm values determine the curve. The lower value should be close to the dead band value and the upper one should be a bit further away,
maybe 100 or 200 rpm the next 2 values are time constants needed for startup and idle valve closure
Closure speed controls the speed at which the idle valve closes. It is the time step delay between each as it steps to a closed dc value
Startup delay is a wait time right after the engine is started that the system stabilizes before it attempts to find an idle speed

Originally Posted by Savington

sexually illicit story involving tweety-bird floormats

Originally Posted by Savington

I'm not even going to bother with further thuggery or big red text or a two-paragraph sexually illicit story involving tweety-bird floormats and masturbation. That link says more than I ever could about your character and intelligence.

Originally Posted by hustler

searching "idle" in titles gave this on the first half of the page:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32577/
there's also this gem which you would already know if you read and didn't expect everyone to do it for you:

Originally Posted by Savington

MX-5 Miata Forum - Turbo help please - R1600Turbo = GT3man2001

I'm not even going to bother with further thuggery or big red text or a two-paragraph sexually illicit story involving tweety-bird floormats and masturbation. That link says more than I ever could about your character and intelligence.

Originally Posted by R1600Turbo

I think that has done it. I'm done here. Just done. All this site is, is a bunch of younger guys that like to argue with one another.

Originally Posted by GT3man2001

Since nobody helped on this, I searched a bit more and already found the answer. Thanks anyway.

Originally Posted by GT3man2001

I can take the heat, and I can give it right back. But then people get ban happy. This thread has gone to ****....Sav please close it down. I'll figure this **** out on my own.

Originally Posted by gospeed81

So I guess when you're done HERE we'll see the above quoted from GT3man2001?

Originally Posted by hustler

You cried like a ------ on the last page, and now you're ordering around the men on this forum? You have no chance of figuring this simple stuff on your own.

Originally Posted by kotomile

Savington isn't a mod here.. (though he's probably first in line)

Originally Posted by kotomile

Savington isn't a mod here.. (though he's probably first in line)

Originally Posted by gospeed81

Honestly OP, the part that got a rise out of me is that you work for FM. I would like to think that the folks that are a part of the development and manufacture of their kits are capable of FINDING the answers.

Originally Posted by GT3man2001

There's nothing wrong with the kit. FM does not do MS, therefor when it comes to that I am basically on my own. (except for this forum)

Originally Posted by GT3man2001

I'm going to go through EVERYTHING tomorrow that deals with the WB. I tried a different ground tonight and nothing has changed. PLX recommends putting some isolator over the 0-5V wire to the MS to help with interference. Wondering if that has something to do with it...

Originally Posted by gospeed81

if you have two outputs like the LC-1, then you can have good values showing on gauge, and still be sending crap to MS.

I don't think shielding a wire is going to fix what I saw in your datalog.

EDIT: This isn't a MS thing, everything looks fine in your configurator etc.

This means pulling out that stereo cable, and checking the tabs in LM Programmer.

Originally Posted by GT3man2001

LM Programmer?

Originally Posted by gospeed81

Nm, sorry, it's the program used to setup the outputs on the Innovative products.

Did your wideband not come with a CD or anything?

If you just slapped it in, it's probably not working right. You need to calibrate it, although it may work alright out of the box.

The controller however is usually setup to put AFR numbers to the gauge, but you have to specify the second output so that it gives nice numbers to MS.

Originally Posted by GT3man2001

You know honestly, I can't remember. Thanks for asking though, I just put an email through to PLX to see if it should have and how much a new one will cost.

Originally Posted by GT3man2001

But then people get ban happy.

Originally Posted by hustler

Its an art. However, you win at taking the internet seriously.