Troubleshooting no fuel issue
10-13-2016, 05:05 PM
#21
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Last night I tried: primed motor 5 times or so (on off) then turned it over varying supplied throttle. I got it to spit and sputter for 5 seconds or so.
Could it be an injector issue since I reduced compression?
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10-14-2016, 01:08 PM
#24
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17ms PW should definitely be sufficient for getting it started. How about you crank it for a few seconds and then floor the loud-pedal to get into flood-clear mode, but keep cranking. Any sputtering, starting etc. then?
Any idea why your MAP signal would spike to 104kpa when you start cranking? Looks like you may have some noise in your wiring. With that spike you seem to be getting into an untuned cell- your PW is 25ms for a few events. No way that's good.
Have you posted your tune yet?
Any idea why your MAP signal would spike to 104kpa when you start cranking? Looks like you may have some noise in your wiring. With that spike you seem to be getting into an untuned cell- your PW is 25ms for a few events. No way that's good.
Have you posted your tune yet?
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10-14-2016, 09:33 PM
#25
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17ms PW should definitely be sufficient for getting it started. How about you crank it for a few seconds and then floor the loud-pedal to get into flood-clear mode, but keep cranking. Any sputtering, starting etc. then?
Any idea why your MAP signal would spike to 104kpa when you start cranking? Looks like you may have some noise in your wiring. With that spike you seem to be getting into an untuned cell- your PW is 25ms for a few events. No way that's good.
Have you posted your tune yet?
Any idea why your MAP signal would spike to 104kpa when you start cranking? Looks like you may have some noise in your wiring. With that spike you seem to be getting into an untuned cell- your PW is 25ms for a few events. No way that's good.
Have you posted your tune yet?
Also, MAP is a vac line to my MS3.
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10-15-2016, 12:38 PM
#27
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I've seen 3 people mention test mode. But it doesn't seem like you have tried it. Stop cranking the car. Go into test mode. Test each coil and injector independently.
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10-15-2016, 02:08 PM
#28
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That has been done. Ran Test mode for injectors as well as coils.
They both do the job in test mode. Should I try monkeying with base timing at all?
No-start scenarios are the worst.
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10-15-2016, 09:11 PM
#35
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Today I checked over timing. It was and is correct.
My head hurts.
I found a similar issue over and miata.net (which wasn't resolved in thread) so I messaged him. Hoping to hear back as his profile shows as being active.
My head hurts.
I found a similar issue over and miata.net (which wasn't resolved in thread) so I messaged him. Hoping to hear back as his profile shows as being active.
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10-16-2016, 09:56 PM
#37
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To be blunt, you complain about "no fuel" and then show us results that clearly indicate you have fuel and spark. Clearly you are missing something and not telling us. You need to start over. Go through and categorically ensure that every single thing in the system works. You said something about a spark light earlier, bullshit. Pull the plugs and visually verify spark. Then verify they keep sparking in test mode. Make sure all the injectors click. If you suspect issues with two of them, swap them around and try again. If you can verify that you have fuel and spark, then your maps suck or you haven't applied the fuel/spark at the same time or there's not enough/too much fuel. Go back to the beginning and verify each thing independently and unequivocally. "wet spark plugs" is not unequivocal.
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10-17-2016, 01:32 PM
#38
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I posted this in your other thread, but here it is again.
One thing to check is to make sure that the piston for cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke. Make sure that when the timing marks on the cams and the crank are at TDC that the piston is coming up. You can have the cams at TDC, but the crank 360 degrees off. The crank rotates two times per every one revolution of the cams. You will align the cams to TDC, remove the spark plug from cylinder 1 and insert the dip stick in the spark plug hole, making sure it drops down and sets on top of the piston. You then rotate the crank and watch the dip stick, it should go down not matter what direction you turn the crank by hand. If the dip stick does not go down, you need to take off the timing belt, rotate the crank 360 degrees and put the timing belt back on and repeat the test above. The piston on cylinder 1 should be on the compression stroke and should be at the top of its stroke when the crank and cams are at TDC (Timing marks aligned).
One thing to check is to make sure that the piston for cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke. Make sure that when the timing marks on the cams and the crank are at TDC that the piston is coming up. You can have the cams at TDC, but the crank 360 degrees off. The crank rotates two times per every one revolution of the cams. You will align the cams to TDC, remove the spark plug from cylinder 1 and insert the dip stick in the spark plug hole, making sure it drops down and sets on top of the piston. You then rotate the crank and watch the dip stick, it should go down not matter what direction you turn the crank by hand. If the dip stick does not go down, you need to take off the timing belt, rotate the crank 360 degrees and put the timing belt back on and repeat the test above. The piston on cylinder 1 should be on the compression stroke and should be at the top of its stroke when the crank and cams are at TDC (Timing marks aligned).
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10-17-2016, 07:25 PM
#39
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I posted this in your other thread, but here it is again.
One thing to check is to make sure that the piston for cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke. Make sure that when the timing marks on the cams and the crank are at TDC that the piston is coming up. You can have the cams at TDC, but the crank 360 degrees off. The crank rotates two times per every one revolution of the cams. You will align the cams to TDC, remove the spark plug from cylinder 1 and insert the dip stick in the spark plug hole, making sure it drops down and sets on top of the piston. You then rotate the crank and watch the dip stick, it should go down not matter what direction you turn the crank by hand. If the dip stick does not go down, you need to take off the timing belt, rotate the crank 360 degrees and put the timing belt back on and repeat the test above. The piston on cylinder 1 should be on the compression stroke and should be at the top of its stroke when the crank and cams are at TDC (Timing marks aligned).
One thing to check is to make sure that the piston for cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke. Make sure that when the timing marks on the cams and the crank are at TDC that the piston is coming up. You can have the cams at TDC, but the crank 360 degrees off. The crank rotates two times per every one revolution of the cams. You will align the cams to TDC, remove the spark plug from cylinder 1 and insert the dip stick in the spark plug hole, making sure it drops down and sets on top of the piston. You then rotate the crank and watch the dip stick, it should go down not matter what direction you turn the crank by hand. If the dip stick does not go down, you need to take off the timing belt, rotate the crank 360 degrees and put the timing belt back on and repeat the test above. The piston on cylinder 1 should be on the compression stroke and should be at the top of its stroke when the crank and cams are at TDC (Timing marks aligned).
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10-17-2016, 07:26 PM
#40
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This is where I stand on my issue, Which is bothersome, since my maps ran perfect on my old motor.
Last night I tried combinations of less req_fuel and - or + crank timing. With no good results.
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