BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Haha I was like oh this must be it! ...... Nope! Found the right one up top though lol

furrycurry33

iTrader: (3)

Not enough fuel in the idle cells? try bumping up your idle cells 5-8 points.
EDIT: And make them all consistent with your idle VE as well. Then turn them down in idle VE as needed to get to your target afr, then copy in the same values to your regular VE table.

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Woot! It runs! Threw around 8 at both tables.... Still running a bit like **** but hell, it runs!

So I set it to fixed timing and checked it with my timing light.... Its reading crazy high... Like 16deg. I bumped the timing down in TS down to 5.5 and it starts to stumble and stall.... Its still only reading around 13-14deg when I check with my timing light. What gives?!

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

You might be at the limits of your CAS range as it sits. You can adjust in TS all day but if you've pegged the sensor than it wont reach where you want. Technically you can leave the trigger angle alone when you've set fixed timing in TS and physically adjust the CAS, turning until its at 10. You should be able to reach 10 using a combination of those methods! I'll try and find the helpful video I used if you still have no luck.

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Ok I will try tweaking the CAS to get it back to 10. Thanks!

furrycurry33

iTrader: (3)

You are adjusting the trigger angle and not the map, right? don't be afraid to go into the negative range if that's what it takes.

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Yes I was adjusting the trigger angle. I attempted to go as low as I could before stalling. I tweaked the CAS enough to level it out and the dot is bouncing around 10deg.

Soooooo how do I get this thing to actually rev enough to be able to ve analyze? I switched back to "Use Map" for the timing obviously.... But I cant even get the thing to move because its running like ****. Can't really get the RPM's above 3K. Its almost like the more I press the pedal the more it tries to die.... Its immediately when I let off the throttle that the RPM's jump up a little bit

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

Curry, I don't know if its different for a brain MS but here they again mention NOT to just keep adjusting the trigger angle. There's a point where it wont help and you need the actual CAS to move. See 4:15



BT if you suspect that you adjusted the trigger angle too far (the vid says past 50) then I'd take the trigger angle back above 50 and play with the CAS once more to get it back to 10. That may be the source of your shitty running? IDK just throwing it out there.

I know mine ran like poop at first cuz my TPS was reading inversely as it should. You said yours is all set now so IDK.

Do you have your AFR gauge set up yet? What's it reading? Its hard to differentiate super rich from lean at first. Its nice to have things like that in place to diagnose.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

it's slightly different for the MS2 and MS3, but same concept.

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

I might put the MS on hold for now... Starting to get frustrated. Might have to move on to something else like swapping in my 6spd and FM clutch.

I just don't get how it fired up and drove beautifully Wednesday morning. I flashed back to the back-up file from Weds morning, and now it won't even start again.

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

P.S - I had no idea the variable TPS works with the stock ECU... I unnecessarily swapped sensors like 10 times in the last 3 days switching between MS/ stock ECU

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Ok back at it again this morning. Found another guy's thread with a 1.6 ms3x map in it... So I flashed it to see what it did. Car now starts and idles Ok... stumbles a little when I hit the gas but it's a start.

So while it's idling, my LC-2 gauge is reading 7.5... while Tunerstudio is showing 14.5. I tried to drive it with VE analyze on for a minute and it immediately started cutting fuel hardcore. Stalled out a 1/2 mile down the road. Luckily I shut the car down, and went back to the original map and didn't keep the veal settings... So what I am thinking is that Tunerstudio is thinking my AFR is higher than it actually is, and rather than fine tuning the map, it is drastically cutting fuel to compensate for the off the charts AFR

Am I missing something? Was I supposed to calibrate the AFR to make it somehow read the same on the gauge and in Tunerstudio?

I think this explains why my car stalled and broke down on Weds too. I ran tunerstudio and it cut fuel... Cable broke and I couldn't get the original map back.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

7.5? I don't think the car would even run at 7.5. Is black smoke spewing out the back?

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Maybe I need to check my LC-2 wiring

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

sounds like the other way around?

Tuner Studio thinks AFR is higher, so it's trying to dump more fuel. Gauge is saying, "Please stop, too much fuel"

You definitely need to get the wideband calibrated in Tuner Studio before applying changes, otherwise it will be changing things for all the wrong reasons.

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

The only thing I did with the wideband was select LC-2 from the drop down in TS. Is there something else that needs to be done?

Do I need to calibrate the gauge itself? Its a brand new LC-2 I basically just took it out of the box, put it in the car and assumed all was right in the world

The map is cutting fuel (I'm pretty sure) ... When I ran VE analyze the numbers were getting smaller and the boxed it was adjusting were red... I am assuming that means the values were decreased

Harv

iTrader: (4)

I am not sure about the lc2, but the lc1 requires you to do free air calibration on the sensor before use.

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Well ****... I need to start reading instructions lol

Looking them over now

BTMiata

iTrader: (5)

Sooo sensor is now calibrated.... But the MS is confused

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPgJ...ature=youtu.be

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Did you use the two separate outputs on the lc2 and recalibrate the narrow to a wide? Or did you just splice off the wide for both the gauge and the MS?