1.6l: SMOKING. Built bottom end, smoke out of oil dipstick/valve cover
#101
Have you pulled the plugs? Black or shiny new ish looking. If they are black I'd say you're burning oil. If they're shiny new ish looking my guess is the turbo or exhaust valve seals. Really the only thing after the cylinders that has oil. Would at least narrow it down to engine or exhaust stem seals/turbo. The more I read this the more I think this is something simple you refuse or are to retarded to try. Re-read the thread and start at the easiest (or within your ability) thing or cheapest possible solution. Then go from there.
#102
Have you even looked at the links, or bothered to look at the attached pic on how to PROPERLY hook up a catch can that I posted for you?
Lets do one thing at a time, and check the things off your list.
and NO there is no way to check the valve stem seals with out removing most of the valve train.
Personaly I wouls like to see you with a 10 or 12 AN drain line....
Since you are fighting tooth and nail from opening up the engine back up.. Lets try a few other things before that then.
***1 read links on catch can, and hook up your can that way.
***2 install a larger drain line on turbo
If smoke on decell is still there after these 2 things.....
***3 install an oil restrictor in turbo feed line.
still smoke?? yes??
***4 Pull head off and apart and change the valve stem seals..at this point we can look at a few other things too.
Who is this Corky guy?
Lets do one thing at a time, and check the things off your list.
and NO there is no way to check the valve stem seals with out removing most of the valve train.
Personaly I wouls like to see you with a 10 or 12 AN drain line....
Since you are fighting tooth and nail from opening up the engine back up.. Lets try a few other things before that then.
***1 read links on catch can, and hook up your can that way.
***2 install a larger drain line on turbo
If smoke on decell is still there after these 2 things.....
***3 install an oil restrictor in turbo feed line.
still smoke?? yes??
***4 Pull head off and apart and change the valve stem seals..at this point we can look at a few other things too.
Who is this Corky guy?
#104
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Corky Bell is founder of Bell Engineering And Bell Intercoolers. He is a very respected man. I talk to him multiple times and he is extremely helpful.
-8 is totally enough that's what begi uses in all their kits and Flyinmiata.
I did do another little test. I have an EGT bung right by cylinder 3. I pulled the probe out and let the car idle, there was absolutely no smoke coming out of it at idle. So I reved the engine and a pretty huge plume came out the exhaust pipe and absolutely nothing out the bung. So I am wondering if smoke was coming out the motor wouldn't it smoke out the bung?
-8 is totally enough that's what begi uses in all their kits and Flyinmiata.
I did do another little test. I have an EGT bung right by cylinder 3. I pulled the probe out and let the car idle, there was absolutely no smoke coming out of it at idle. So I reved the engine and a pretty huge plume came out the exhaust pipe and absolutely nothing out the bung. So I am wondering if smoke was coming out the motor wouldn't it smoke out the bung?
#105
Yes it is...
So now we are back to the turbo...
If the return line is too small and oil backs up in the CHCA, it would smoke on decell when the oil ring unloads on decell.....
BUT I thought you had the turbo checked out by the builder and all was well there...
Oh wait... this is the builder that dosent know how to use a wrench.....
But anyhow... if the ID of the return is not 5/8 it is too small...
Cool deal... thats what they use.....
This what I use...is a min of a 5/8 ID
Now have you looked into what pressure and flow the turbo needs?
So now we are back to the turbo...
If the return line is too small and oil backs up in the CHCA, it would smoke on decell when the oil ring unloads on decell.....
BUT I thought you had the turbo checked out by the builder and all was well there...
Oh wait... this is the builder that dosent know how to use a wrench.....
But anyhow... if the ID of the return is not 5/8 it is too small...
Cool deal... thats what they use.....
This what I use...is a min of a 5/8 ID
Now have you looked into what pressure and flow the turbo needs?
#106
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Pulled the turbo. I have had a blown turbo on my Lgt and this is for sure does not look like a blown turbo.
First downpipe
Hot side of the turbo was totally 100% dry.
Manifold. Haven't pulled it yet will do it tomorrow
Manifold looks pretty dry too.
First downpipe
Hot side of the turbo was totally 100% dry.
Manifold. Haven't pulled it yet will do it tomorrow
Manifold looks pretty dry too.
#107
I would have ecpected you to see smoke out of the egt hole. What happened to the smoke out of the dipstick tube and breather Ports? Are you still getting this? Is it possible to have a small leak where the center section meets the exhaust housing? It doesnt take much oil to make a lot of smoke. If it is a small amount, then it might all be burning off, instead of leaving residue.
If the block is still smoking, then I think u need to quit dicking around andpull the head. Its easy if you have a hoist. Hot side and cold side stay connected. Unbolt dp, fuel, lines, intake pipe, and wiring, UNbolt head, lift out.
If the block is still smoking, then I think u need to quit dicking around andpull the head. Its easy if you have a hoist. Hot side and cold side stay connected. Unbolt dp, fuel, lines, intake pipe, and wiring, UNbolt head, lift out.
#108
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Well, i think we are going to take the guess work out of this with this new information. To me these valve seals look absolutely fucked.
At least its for sure a part of the issue.
At least its for sure a part of the issue.
#119
No it will not, your feelings are stupid. composite is crap, and if you want to run significant boost you shouldn't use it. hell, you shouldn't use it period, no matter how much boost. its 5x as prone to leaking and failing than mls.
if you head is warped you need to fix the problem instead of using stupid completely useless ideas that will back fire on you.
do it once, do it right
if you head is warped you need to fix the problem instead of using stupid completely useless ideas that will back fire on you.
do it once, do it right
#120
18psi.... I will have to dissagree.... I have seen composite HG hold 400 hp and more.
Now That I am still learning the miata engines, there may be "tribal Knowlage" on why the composites are not used. If there is, I do hope you will share.
Surface prep for a MLS is way more critical on both the block and head to achieve a good seal.
Rushin.... what bothers you about having the head decked? It is simple and easy to have done.
The trick is finding a shop that will use the right equipment But do not let the head be belt surfaced.
If you look at threads I have started find one "Why NOT to have your head belt surfaced"
But if the head is warped, or has fire rings have the head surfaced.
A composite may be able to take up too .003 warp and seal a NA grandma engine and give a decent service, when you modify the engine and increase the power out put it will not last like it should.
Now That I am still learning the miata engines, there may be "tribal Knowlage" on why the composites are not used. If there is, I do hope you will share.
Surface prep for a MLS is way more critical on both the block and head to achieve a good seal.
Rushin.... what bothers you about having the head decked? It is simple and easy to have done.
The trick is finding a shop that will use the right equipment But do not let the head be belt surfaced.
If you look at threads I have started find one "Why NOT to have your head belt surfaced"
But if the head is warped, or has fire rings have the head surfaced.
A composite may be able to take up too .003 warp and seal a NA grandma engine and give a decent service, when you modify the engine and increase the power out put it will not last like it should.