Electronic Det-Cans - Group Buy...ish
#62
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,770
Total Cats: 31
Sure thing. I WILL NOT BE OUTDONE however, so from now on, I will be including a set of these with every purchase:
http://www.abt.com/product/39853/Sen...mpaign=froogle
FYI, the new price is now $1,454.95 :P
#66
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,770
Total Cats: 31
If any of you guys have tried it out on your car yet, post up some feedback. I want to hear your ideas on how I can improve these.
#67
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Seriously, does this go on the knock sensor connector or do I really put it on a bolt on the block?
#69
First Review - because I rock like that
Installed last night...and have not stopped driving around listening to my motor since. I'm such a geek.
Knock is very easily discerned with these. It is a very distinct rattly sound just like the video. Volume goes way higher than you'd ever need.
Actually, the volume is hard to get low enough. I grabbed a set of really old iPod headphones that were in the crap/broken electronics drawer for a reason...and got a little noise at the lowest volume setting, which was the only way it was comfortable for my ears.
I then used the aux in jack on my stereo, which allowed me to turn the unit up, while using stereo **** to make it reasonable. This worked very well, but Jeff is right, your exhaust gets loud fast, and you'll find yourself repeatedly turning it up.
I would go for some good in-ears with a built-in volume control. This way you can run the unit volume high enough you won't get any low current noise through cheap headphones, and still keep your ears from bleeding while blocking out road and exhaust noise.
Or just don't use cheap headphones.
Functionality/Success
The clip stayed on my starter/motor mount bolt the whole way through a very bumpy and fast 80 mile back road drive.
YOU CAN HEAR EVERYTHING!!!!111one one!!11one!!!uno!!111!!!juan!!!!!
I do mean everything. Definitely mount it low, because even at the middle bottom of block, the valvetrain makes a lot of racket. This doesn't drown out the combustion noise at all, but I can't imagine how bad it would be if you clipped to the head.
My injector noise (clicking) sounds even, so I'm not blaming a bad injector anymore.
This thing will allow you to hear knock WAY before you can audibly hear it, and still well before my oil pressure/knock sensor starts fidgiting. I noticed it very clearly about 2-3psi, and 25% throttle position before the audible or sensor methods I've been using. This is a LOT of time in the life of a motor experiencing det.
I only ran it through the range twice like that for the sake of my rods, but I very easily made trigger angle adjustments that took away any knock throughout the whole map, while still providing decent power. I plan to tune individual rows next to get a little more back, but for now it's nice to know there's not a hint of knock anywhere. These were high gear uphill pulls too.
If you are not tuning with these, you're either being conservative and leaving a lot on the table, or you're asking for a weekend of motor swap joy.
I could not be happier.
Possible Improvements
I wouldn't mind having an on/off switch. I feel like I'm going to wear the battery clip down continually removing it.
Jacks could be labeled, but it's in the instructions and once you know them, it's easy. I just guessed since I was out in the garage and got it right first time...so maybe I'll go buy a lotto ticket today.
Likes
Sturdy
Simple
Flat sides for adding velcro tape to for mouting.
Works
Thanks Jeff.
Installed last night...and have not stopped driving around listening to my motor since. I'm such a geek.
Knock is very easily discerned with these. It is a very distinct rattly sound just like the video. Volume goes way higher than you'd ever need.
Actually, the volume is hard to get low enough. I grabbed a set of really old iPod headphones that were in the crap/broken electronics drawer for a reason...and got a little noise at the lowest volume setting, which was the only way it was comfortable for my ears.
I then used the aux in jack on my stereo, which allowed me to turn the unit up, while using stereo **** to make it reasonable. This worked very well, but Jeff is right, your exhaust gets loud fast, and you'll find yourself repeatedly turning it up.
I would go for some good in-ears with a built-in volume control. This way you can run the unit volume high enough you won't get any low current noise through cheap headphones, and still keep your ears from bleeding while blocking out road and exhaust noise.
Or just don't use cheap headphones.
Functionality/Success
The clip stayed on my starter/motor mount bolt the whole way through a very bumpy and fast 80 mile back road drive.
YOU CAN HEAR EVERYTHING!!!!111one one!!11one!!!uno!!111!!!juan!!!!!
I do mean everything. Definitely mount it low, because even at the middle bottom of block, the valvetrain makes a lot of racket. This doesn't drown out the combustion noise at all, but I can't imagine how bad it would be if you clipped to the head.
My injector noise (clicking) sounds even, so I'm not blaming a bad injector anymore.
This thing will allow you to hear knock WAY before you can audibly hear it, and still well before my oil pressure/knock sensor starts fidgiting. I noticed it very clearly about 2-3psi, and 25% throttle position before the audible or sensor methods I've been using. This is a LOT of time in the life of a motor experiencing det.
I only ran it through the range twice like that for the sake of my rods, but I very easily made trigger angle adjustments that took away any knock throughout the whole map, while still providing decent power. I plan to tune individual rows next to get a little more back, but for now it's nice to know there's not a hint of knock anywhere. These were high gear uphill pulls too.
If you are not tuning with these, you're either being conservative and leaving a lot on the table, or you're asking for a weekend of motor swap joy.
I could not be happier.
Possible Improvements
I wouldn't mind having an on/off switch. I feel like I'm going to wear the battery clip down continually removing it.
Jacks could be labeled, but it's in the instructions and once you know them, it's easy. I just guessed since I was out in the garage and got it right first time...so maybe I'll go buy a lotto ticket today.
Likes
Sturdy
Simple
Flat sides for adding velcro tape to for mouting.
Works
Thanks Jeff.
Last edited by gospeed81; 03-10-2010 at 01:29 PM. Reason: seplling/grahmer
#74
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Ok, just ran up and down the block an re-tuned fuel since I no longer have a fuel leak and much more fuel pressure. Apparently my car is LOUD because I have to crank these bitches. I think they work best plugged into the radio.
These motherfucks are priceless. I'm going to do some nasty, ragged edge tuning (then back off) on John's car on the Mustang dyno.
These motherfucks are priceless. I'm going to do some nasty, ragged edge tuning (then back off) on John's car on the Mustang dyno.
#75
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,770
Total Cats: 31
Next batch started arriving today. I'll be starting assembly tonight and will be PMing people payment info strait down the list. As soon as I finish a set, it will get packaged and dropped in the mail the following morning.
Jeff
Jeff
#76
I need a paypal....
Thanks!
Thanks!
#77
Paypal sent.
#78
what's the frequency bandwith on the microphone / amplifier you're using?
Last edited by WestfieldMX5; 03-14-2010 at 08:02 AM.