This is my first attempt with any type of standalone so I as green as they come but am willing to learn and research. I bought this used from a member here,I can't remember who right now, and have it on my 1990 with 96 1.8. I have the turbo on but fully disconnected and have the air installed. I also have the 1.8 injectors in and the base timing was set to 6 BTDC static. The car will run with the stock ecu and maf but not with the megasquirt. The megasquirt is communicating with my computer and I have reflashed the firmware, with ignitor unplugged, and removed the 10amp fuse from the start. I uploaded the 9093 base map w/o maf but when I try to start the engine turns over but no pop or bang, just the starter turning the engine over. I finally got it to start today after reading of someone having to jump the fuel pump through the diagnostic box. idle was really rough as you can imagine lol but it did idle. My question is the ms all fuxored since it won't run the pump without the jumper? Also I need to wire up the wideband can't find a diagram of the 16pin plug for the mspnp as to which wire is for power and for signal input. I'm sure that the information is out there and that I've probably looked right over it, but I've spent the last few days reading and searching and am now concerned with the findings today. Any help is appreciated.

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1990 red mods: 96 1.8 swap, Begi-S, Intercooled, HKS SSQV, CXRad, 2554 garrett, boost gauge, AEM Uego, EGT, 2.5" exhaust(catless), HardDog roll bar, DIY dual feed fuel rail, MSPNP

sounds like the fuel pump driver circuit got damaged. could have been prior.

diagram is on mspnp.com

Did you read the manual for the 1.6 MSPNP where it says to pull out the ST_SIG fuse to run the fuel pump? I am betting you did not pull that and burned up a diode in the MSPNP. If you check Bond's build thread we explained how to fix it. Also set your timing back to 10 degrees.

Yes the fuse was pulled but I bought it used so the previous owner said it was fine. I will look up how to fix it from that thread and the site. thanks

I was just setting the timing back to 10 but the light is showing that the timing is way off like 30 or more!

I have a video, but the shouldn't even run at that right?

http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=MVI_2079.mp4

here is a video of the timing

looks retarded is all (maybe 10-15°). thats why we sync.

that's on the stock ecu and the marks are well to the right of TDC. The mark on the right should be at TDC and the left one should be on 10. I would expect the marks to be under 10 since it was retarded to begin with.

then you rotate cas...

sorry, I just realized my error once you posted Brain. it's just been one of those days.

Would it be possible to just run the fp jumper in the diagnostic box? Am I running any risk with it like that? My soldering skills are nonexistent and would be not want to fix the board by myself.

Got the car to idle right with the ms! Even the troublesome AEM uego is wired and communicating with the ms. I did notice that the gauge and ms very slightly in readings by about .7-.9 but from what I've read this seems to be a norm.

Tomorrow I'll start tuning the idle. Got a lot to read tonight.

did they change the features or layout of TS? I'm trying to tune for idle but slot of the threads are showing pictures of tools that I don't seem to have. I did register TS AND PAID.

there's only two screens for MSI idle control. they haven't changed - firmware dependant.

Ok, it only give me idle control and closed loop control. My car seems to idle fine and stays pretty stoich even recovers when A/C comes on but won't idle any lower than 1100 rpms.

Any ideas

This is how my idle settings are now.

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here is what it does when turning a/c onn at idle

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The cells it hits when you turn your a/c on are too lean. You need to tune your fuel table.

after you do that, it should be better.

You can also try lowering the upper lower limits slighty, and then reducing the fast and slow recovery speeds. maybe 250 - 80 - 13 - 90 respectively.

This should make it react faster with a load change like that, that brings you off your rpm target.


but first try to tune your fuel map in such a way that you dont get teh AFR to spike up like that and stays constant.

Ok, thanks I'll go get on those changes, I also just found Hornetball's post on how he got tuned his idle! I don't know how I've been missing it.

Thanks for the help, hopefully I'll be able to take it for a drive later.

I did manage to get the rpms down to 900 or so abut still get the big spike in afr's when the a/c kicks in. It does recover a bit faster now I'm jus unsure about the afr's.

correct me if I'm wrong but on the fuel VE, the lower the number and the darker blue it gets the more rich it should be. I have the cells all in the range of idle when a/c is on set to 35. Should I go lower?

VE on TS
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awful.