BoostedNA

Hey everyone,
I just bought a white 1990 Miata with the basic Greddy kit. My last car was stolen and I was forced to buy a car fast and a friend of mine said to buy a Miata. Honestly, it's my favorite car to date.
I had a couple of questions because I've never owned a non-factory turboed car.
1. What timing system are you using? (Mine is retared 4 degrees)
2. What oil does everyone prefer (I'm using Mobile 1 syn 15w40)
3. Good suggestions for aftermarket wastegates?
4. Good injectors? (I'm pushing 5lbs without intercooler but will be buying)
5. Is there any knowledge you guys would like to pass on to a noob? (yes, I will be reading a lot on here)

Thanks!
-Daniel

Slidin'Miata916

iTrader: (-1)

I have a base timing of 10-12 and the bipes is set to 6 full retard
Im using Mobile One 10w30
I have no clue. The one on there works fine for me.
1.8 Tan Injectors Work Great for the money, But I wouldnt get any injectors til you know what power you want.
And, here just read this its a start.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4288

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

1. Bipes ACU, MSD Boost Controller for pure timing & Megasquirt, Emanage Blue & Ultimate for fuel/spark

2. 5w-30 in the winter 10w-40 in the summer

3. no, why?

4. depends on the goals. See #5.

5. Read my FAQ on injector sizing and fuel pressures.

BoostedNA

Thanks!
For #3. My wastegate may need to be replaced due to some rusting on the rod.
Braineack-Wow...Thanks for the resources!

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Sand the rust off and hit it with some hi-temp spraypaint. It's probably just some corrosion. Seriously, sand it down and take a look. The rod itself doesn't really have any stress/strain on it. Even if it is a little rust, it's probably not going to hurt anything. Take a pic and post it.

I think before you do anything, you need to set a goal and do some research about the setup and power goal you're going to pursue. Do some serious homework into Megasquirt. The PNP is only $700 and then there's no need for a fuel pump/AFPR/Bipes which are $700 total new (around $450 used). Then you just need some 440's from an RX7 (hell, even 330's should get you started) for full control over fuel/spark.

Seriously, rather than piecemeal the thing together over a couple of months, just save for MS.
MS+440's+MBC+FMIC= 200+whp for $1000 from your current setup.

Some things to check for now:
How are your spark plugs and wires? Stock?
How old is the fuel filter?
What are your compression numbers?
You should test the capacity of the fuel pump, which requires a fuel pressure gauge.
What skillz do you have? Access to tools? Garage?

So, tell us more. Fill out your profile (include where you live... somebody may be close and can come over and help you out). Fill out your SIGNATURE with a short list of all the mods (including suspension/brakes/chassis) currently on the car. Create a VBGarage and throw some pictures in there... look here on making the pictures small enough to post: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...hlight=resizer

Welcome to the forum!

Ben

iTrader: (33)

The greddy WG actuator does suck monkey *****, so it wouldn't hurt to replace it if it's coming off anyway. Beats having to deal with boost spike then droop, helper springs, or having 98% boost solenoid duty cycle at 6800 rpm.

I took my can off and painted it. Wish I had just replaced it at the time.

greddymx5

iTrader: (1)

Check if the manifold is cut between the runners.
Leave the bolds alone until you really have to.
(the standard upgrade is to make relieve cuts and get quality studs and bolds)

Check if the afpr is installed. (blue or black thing in the fuel return line.)
Normally mounted on the passenger side firewall.

Have fun with the car!!

BoostedNA

Sam, you are the man on this forum, thanks for your insight.
The manifold is cut (good).
Once I get to work I'll set up my profile with location and such. It'll be a couple of days before I can get pics uploaded.
There is a vortex AFPR installed.
"Seriously, rather than piecemeal the thing together over a couple of months, just save for MS.
MS+440's+MBC+FMIC= 200+whp for $1000 from your current setup."
Sounds like a good goal. I'll probably PM you late in August when I have the money for that setup to make sure I'm doing this right.
I'm joining the local SCCA club (Martins Sports Car Club) soon which I know has some Miata owners which will be good too.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

SCCA is a great place to get some info from race types... but remember, guys who are hard-core AutoXers probably aren't turbo guys. There's a MS forum on the front forum page with some sticky's that should get you the info you need to get started.
I don't Squirt yet, but pretty much, unplug old ECU. Plug in MS. Start engine. There's a function to delete the flapper-door AFM with MS, you just have to tap the intake manifold with a IAT sensor and run a couple wires... PIECE OF CAKE. Plenty of guys here are having huge success with MS and will be able to hook you up with base MAP's to get you boostin.

Be sure to keep good comms with a forum member named Braineak who is one of the MS guru's.

Also, check out the Miata clubs in your area and attend a monthly meeting or two. The average Miata club member is what we call a "wine-and-cheeser", more interested in chrome trim rings and luggage racks than home-built turbos... but there will be a hard-core group within each club that is all about power. Meet those guys, look over their setups, and get a first-hand education to help point you in the right direction for your build. Those guys WILL take you for rides, get a feel for the power delivery of different sizes of turbo's and what eventual power goal you'll shoot for.

Also, don't forget about the extra things you'll want to investigate for an increase in power over the stock Greddy. YOU WILL NEED A NEW CLUTCH!
A change to better fluids in the tranny and dif. Redline or Motul, there are others. The stock 1.6 6" dif is a known weak point. Most guys upgrade to a 1.8 7" dif which is good for around 300whp. The 1.8 open is just as strong as the 1.8 Torsen... just be informed about the possibility that you MAY blow your 1.6 dif if you don't respect it's limited power handling. I've been running 180ftlbs through it for about 6 months now... no problems. But I don't drift or drag, and treat it as easy as I can... but eventually, I know it will grenade.

And thanks for the compliments... my wife would disagree with you though.

BoostedNA

Damn, is your wife mad you spend too much time ON the forums? lol, I can see it's not hard to do. BTW, How long have you been in the Navy?
I'm am copying and pasting everything you guys have said into a to-do list! So much information. I'm defiantly trying to get established in the local clubs and groups. I like the Miata crowd a lot better then any of the other crowds I've rolled with. You guys are a little more mature and knowledgeable.
I just drove home from work and I think I need to get back into the car!
Later!

spike

The ban stick on this forum is big,long and thick,it's gonna really hurt when it gets shoved up your ***.

weitau

imho, the response hurts more to read than the original post (now deleted)

BoostedNA

Wow, I think we got a little off topic! LOL Beware the Ban Stick!

Thanks Samnavy for all your advice. You've started me in the right direction and given me some invaluable information.

akaryrye

iTrader: (5)

so is ninjitsumeiyo banned finally? god im ******* sick of that *******

Slidin'Miata916

iTrader: (-1)

Lol Hahahaha. Yea...I noticed that the last ten repliied threads were his, so I went one by one and was just laughing :gay:

BoostedNA

guys, who the hell is ninjitsumeiyo? I completely missed his posts before you deleted them.

spike

^ some idiot posting stupid random **** to up his post count so he can sell something.

jkballardbpl

iTrader: (1)

Are you still considering buying a MSD Ignition Boost retard control? I have one for sale and a lambda link AFR. PM me for details if you are interested.

Thanks,
Jim