Autocross SSM 92 miata upgrade help
03-06-2013, 12:20 AM
#1
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 10
Total Cats: 0
Autocross SSM 92 miata upgrade help
i have a 92 miata that i race in SSM autocross i bought it last year with the turbo kit already on it. I am trying to figure out what would be the best upgrade for this season for around $1,000 (yes i know that i suck at driving still....im workin on that 
)
things already upgraded;
FM2 turbo kit about 240 HP
hard dog roll bar
konig 15" x 6.5" helium rims and hankook r-comp c51 205/50 r15 (almost shot)
what looks to be an old tokico hp suspension kit (blue shocks red springs, i think the springs are old and week though)
wilwood big brake kit in the front (couldn't pass up the great price last fall)
im not looking to compete nationally and there are only a few guys in my local club that are no ware near nationl level
so here is what i have narrowed down my options too (aside from driver skill)
225/45 r15 toyo Ra1 or R888's on 15" x8" 6ul's (since my old tires are almost gone and traction sucks) (275 hoosiers are to expensive for my blood)$1400 or so
3.9:1 rear gears with a torsen diff (curently 4.3 with open diff, inside wheel spins with even 1/2 throttle coming out of turns and sometimes hit rev limit in 2nd at some tracks)$1200 or so
coilovers like tein street advance 500/340 lbs springs with upper nb mounts (or other lbs spings not sure what size to get) $1100 or so
sorry for the long post wanted to answer most questions up front.
Thanks for any help
)things already upgraded;
FM2 turbo kit about 240 HP
hard dog roll bar
konig 15" x 6.5" helium rims and hankook r-comp c51 205/50 r15 (almost shot)
what looks to be an old tokico hp suspension kit (blue shocks red springs, i think the springs are old and week though)
wilwood big brake kit in the front (couldn't pass up the great price last fall)
im not looking to compete nationally and there are only a few guys in my local club that are no ware near nationl level
so here is what i have narrowed down my options too (aside from driver skill)
225/45 r15 toyo Ra1 or R888's on 15" x8" 6ul's (since my old tires are almost gone and traction sucks) (275 hoosiers are to expensive for my blood)$1400 or so
3.9:1 rear gears with a torsen diff (curently 4.3 with open diff, inside wheel spins with even 1/2 throttle coming out of turns and sometimes hit rev limit in 2nd at some tracks)$1200 or so
coilovers like tein street advance 500/340 lbs springs with upper nb mounts (or other lbs spings not sure what size to get) $1100 or so
sorry for the long post wanted to answer most questions up front.
Thanks for any help
Last edited by skyfox2003; 03-06-2013 at 09:51 PM.
Reply
0
0
03-06-2013, 08:39 AM
#2
Oh god, with an open you need a diff. I would see if you can try to swing for the OS Giken so you'll never want to upgrade the diff again (may want to play with the settings but thats "free"). Or go with a torsen.
You could also go less hard core on the tires and run the 225/50-15 BFG R1S on 8 or 9 inch wide wheels. Tires might make a bigger improvement than the diff, but you'll have more fun if you get the diff.
You could also go less hard core on the tires and run the 225/50-15 BFG R1S on 8 or 9 inch wide wheels. Tires might make a bigger improvement than the diff, but you'll have more fun if you get the diff.
Reply
0
0
03-06-2013, 08:45 AM
#3
For coilovers: A set of gently used Tein Flex with 9/6kg springs. They worked great on my car until I needed more spring rate than they could handle when I moved the car to XP. I sold mine for $850 I think.
I think you'll benefit greatly from having less power until the R-comp crack addiction hits. I was just as fast in my bone stock 99 miata as I was in the turbo 90 (it was ~207hp to the wheels on a Dyno Dynamics) on street tires. Also, if you still have a rear bar. Ditch it. I could never get the car to put power down on corner exit with it on, even after moving to R-comps.
I think you'll benefit greatly from having less power until the R-comp crack addiction hits. I was just as fast in my bone stock 99 miata as I was in the turbo 90 (it was ~207hp to the wheels on a Dyno Dynamics) on street tires. Also, if you still have a rear bar. Ditch it. I could never get the car to put power down on corner exit with it on, even after moving to R-comps.
Reply
0
0
03-06-2013, 09:53 PM
#4
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 10
Total Cats: 0
[QUOTE=Leafy;986312]Oh god, with an open you need a diff. I would see if you can try to swing for the OS Giken so you'll never want to upgrade the diff again (may want to play with the settings but thats "free"). Or go with a torsen.[QUOTE]
shouldn't i upgrade to a 1.8l rear end when going with an OS Giken?
shouldn't i upgrade to a 1.8l rear end when going with an OS Giken?
Reply
0
0
03-09-2013, 11:15 PM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 65
Total Cats: 0
1. Grip. Save some more $$, ditch the 6.5" wheels and get as wide & light as you can afford, or fenders can handle. Hoosier A6 are a must if you want to be serious.
Coilovers & Springs, corner weight & alignment will help a LOT, but alas are not in your budget either. Do not compromise on a crappy sub $1000 set-up.
2. Traction. An OS Giken is preferred, but out of your budget. A Torsen is just fine, considering some VERY fast CSP cars still use them. Loose the rear bar, and go BIG on the front in the mean time. That will help you get the power down.
Coilovers & Springs, corner weight & alignment will help a LOT, but alas are not in your budget either. Do not compromise on a crappy sub $1000 set-up.
2. Traction. An OS Giken is preferred, but out of your budget. A Torsen is just fine, considering some VERY fast CSP cars still use them. Loose the rear bar, and go BIG on the front in the mean time. That will help you get the power down.
Reply
0
0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Frank_and_Beans
Supercharger Discussion
13
09-12-2016 08:17 PM
