Light weight trailers
#61
The other problem with Uhaul trailers is the renters of trucks get priority over trailer only renters. I know someone who tried renting and got bumped several times.
It took a while but I found a nice 2 axle 16' trailer with 12' bed that fits in my garage. I leave the Miata on it and can safely park beside it with my daily driver.
It took a while but I found a nice 2 axle 16' trailer with 12' bed that fits in my garage. I leave the Miata on it and can safely park beside it with my daily driver.
#62
Sort-of-an-update:
I ran numbers for several different scenarios and I am leaning towards:
[list][*]Buying a 3rd generation (e.g. 1999) V6 4Runner for about $5k. I think I can find one presentable enough to park on the street outside the house.
While not ideal, I think that combination is the best compromise for my particular set of circumstances.
I ran numbers for several different scenarios and I am leaning towards:
[list][*]Buying a 3rd generation (e.g. 1999) V6 4Runner for about $5k. I think I can find one presentable enough to park on the street outside the house.
While not ideal, I think that combination is the best compromise for my particular set of circumstances.
I picked up this '02 Sequoia for $7500 last week. I'm loving it - so much room!
#63
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,799
Total Cats: 179
The problem with U-haul car trailers is that they don't have very many. So you reserve one, drive to the U-haul place the day before your track event to pick it up, and it's not there.
[...]
The other downside to U-haul trailers is that they have surge brakes, which are significantly less desirable than electric brakes for a car trailer.
[...]
The other downside to U-haul trailers is that they have surge brakes, which are significantly less desirable than electric brakes for a car trailer.
The person I spoke with at my local U-Haul said they have no such policy regarding giving truck renters priority on the trailers, but I don't have that in writing.
Originally Posted by k24madness
It took a while but I found a nice 2 axle 16' trailer with 12' bed that fits in my garage. I leave the Miata on it and can safely park beside it with my daily driver.
This is pretty close to the street parking scene. Obviously, in the evenings when everyone is home - one "lane" or side of the street is effectively filled with cars.
This is pretty close to the alley situation although I am thinking my "driveway" is more steeply inclined than those. A full size SUV like an Expedition or Armada would basically fill the entire lane. Trying to back a trailer in to a garage like that - and then being able to manuever it around to fit a second vehicle - seems undoable to me.
However, I really don't have much experience with towing or moving trailers by hand. Does it seem plausible you could back a trailer basically 90* in that space and then "fine tune" the positioning by hand once it is unhooked?
Last edited by Scrappy Jack; 03-06-2012 at 11:20 AM. Reason: Fixed the Google Maps links
#64
I was looking for a trailer solution about a year ago before I gave up. However, I did run into a site where they were selling trailers that you can fold up both ends of the trailer and roll the trailer into your garage with very little foot print.
Not sure how much he wants for this or if it would work for you. Looks cool if nothing else.
Not sure how much he wants for this or if it would work for you. Looks cool if nothing else.
#65
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,898
Total Cats: 399
It is bad that I was looking at 3300lb boat/trailer combo sea rays this past weekend. At least the new trailers have surge brakes. How hard it is to convert from surge/hydraulic to electric? Can anything get reused?
#66
I didn't realize they had surge brakes, but you are right - they do. As for reservations, it seems like they are guaranteed per U-Haul's website. I suppose there is some flexibility in that wording. For example, if they tried to call to confirm the reservation and you didn't speak with them it is not guaranteed.
...
However, I really don't have much experience with towing or moving trailers by hand. Does it seem plausible you could back a trailer basically 90* in that space and then "fine tune" the positioning by hand once it is unhooked?
...
However, I really don't have much experience with towing or moving trailers by hand. Does it seem plausible you could back a trailer basically 90* in that space and then "fine tune" the positioning by hand once it is unhooked?
If you want to 'fine tune' the trailer position, you can get AC-powered 'trailer dollies'. Basically it's a little cart on wheels with a tow ball on top, an AC motor, and an extension cord, and you can use it to move a trailer around a parking place. They're not cheap (I think they start at about a grand) and I've never used one so I have no personal experience, but I imagine that it would be a whole lot easier to maneuver a trailer around an alley like the one in that photo than to do it with a truck.
--Ian
#67
Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chesterfield, NJ
Posts: 6,898
Total Cats: 399
If you want to 'fine tune' the trailer position, you can get AC-powered 'trailer dollies'. Basically it's a little cart on wheels with a tow ball on top, an AC motor, and an extension cord, and you can use it to move a trailer around a parking place. They're not cheap (I think they start at about a grand) and I've never used one so I have no personal experience, but I imagine that it would be a whole lot easier to maneuver a trailer around an alley like the one in that photo than to do it with a truck.
--Ian
--Ian
#68
I have experience with U-Hauls guarantee to have a car trailer for you...
My DD broke down in Paso Robles while on vacation. (my BMW only breaks down in quaint tourist destinations...)
I rented truck and trailer from u-haul. When I got there, they had my truck, but they said the trailer was in a different location, and I had two options. I could drive their truck 70 miles further north to get the trailer (no extra mileage charge for those 140 miles), then come back for the car, or use their tow dolly to drive 60 miles south to where another trailer was. The lady at uhaul said all you need to do, is disconnect the driveshaft. She said it like it was the equivalent of turning on the radio. I had to waste a couple hours and spend more on gas to drive the extra 140 miles to get the trailer. The whole reason I was renting the thing is the car broke down and I didn't have tools and a place to fix it.
And they wouldn't give me any discount whatsoever on the rental. I argued that I reserved the trailer at this location and they didn't honor my reservation, they said they did.
Also just so everyone is aware, the smallest truck U-haul will rent you to tow a car trailer with is their small box truck.
My DD broke down in Paso Robles while on vacation. (my BMW only breaks down in quaint tourist destinations...)
I rented truck and trailer from u-haul. When I got there, they had my truck, but they said the trailer was in a different location, and I had two options. I could drive their truck 70 miles further north to get the trailer (no extra mileage charge for those 140 miles), then come back for the car, or use their tow dolly to drive 60 miles south to where another trailer was. The lady at uhaul said all you need to do, is disconnect the driveshaft. She said it like it was the equivalent of turning on the radio. I had to waste a couple hours and spend more on gas to drive the extra 140 miles to get the trailer. The whole reason I was renting the thing is the car broke down and I didn't have tools and a place to fix it.
And they wouldn't give me any discount whatsoever on the rental. I argued that I reserved the trailer at this location and they didn't honor my reservation, they said they did.
Also just so everyone is aware, the smallest truck U-haul will rent you to tow a car trailer with is their small box truck.
#69
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,799
Total Cats: 179
Thanks for all the feedback.
That thing is pretty sweet but single axle (does have electric brakes). $4200 is < $6000 and I like the concept of the fold-up for smaller storage footprint but I think I am sold on tandem axle.
10-4. I haven't found any non-name brand type of places that rent trailers but have confirmed Budget and Penske do not rent trailers without trucks (which kills the cost consideration).
Sorry to hear about your experience. I am not discounting what you guys are saying about the U-Haul experiences but, for what it is worth, it seems like there are 5-6 U-Haul rental places within a 20-mile radius of my location. That would still be a huge pain in the *** to show up on Friday at 5:30 PM and be told the trailer was at another location that would be closed by the time I got there.
I had never heard of those before. It looks like the retail units are, indeed, about a grand. TurboTim: build and ship me one for $600?
If I ever see the guy that got me in to motorsports and handling events, I am going to punch him. I think the easiest answer is "give up on towing to track days and go back to muay thai and firearms."
I rented truck and trailer from u-haul. When I got there, they had my truck, but they said the trailer was in a different location, and I had two options. I could drive their truck 70 miles further north to get the trailer (no extra mileage charge for those 140 miles), then come back for the car, or use their tow dolly to drive 60 miles south to where another trailer was.
Originally Posted by codrus
If you want to 'fine tune' the trailer position, you can get AC-powered 'trailer dollies'. Basically it's a little cart on wheels with a tow ball on top, an AC motor, and an extension cord, and you can use it to move a trailer around a parking place.
If I ever see the guy that got me in to motorsports and handling events, I am going to punch him. I think the easiest answer is "give up on towing to track days and go back to muay thai and firearms."
#73
I used to drive a cube truck for work. Ours were always rentals from a company that specializes in renting to the film industry. The trucks we used had very nice large liftgates on them. The kind that fold up to close the back of the truck, not the janky fold-under gates. I don't think you'd be able to used the gate to lower the car, but they're able to tilt, and with an extension ramp off the end of the gate you'd have a plenty long enough ramp. I would just be worried about the load rating of the gate...they're rated for the weight of my car, but not that weight dangling off the end.
My problem is similar to Scrappy Jack's. I don't want to drive a truck everyday, and I live somewhere where street parking more than one car is impractical. I can get cheap storage for one thing...I had planned to store the trailer, keep the race car in the garage, and street park my daily. The daily would be some type of SUV. I'm going to have to look into the box truck more. Then I could store the truck with race car inside, and get my parking spot in the garage back!
Bird
#78
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 2,799
Total Cats: 179
Bringing this one back up.
After my most recent trip to Roebling (about a 4.5 hour trip each way) in my project car, I've decided to go back to looking at tow options. My car (especially when driven by me) is probably too slow to break anything based on speed, but old enough for random **** to fail and I don't want to have to always count on the charity of friends with trailers.
I'm definitely set on a tandem axle, open trailer with electric brakes and all the safety gear. I'm trying to see if I can work out an option where my wife drives an SUV that can tow. She has a restricted list of vehicles she can choose from, determined by her employer.
The only one that looks like it can tow anything is the Toyota Highlander. The V6 is rated for 5,000 pounds towing. Max GVWR is 6,000. They don't list a Max GCVWR but I've seen it reported as 11,000 lbs. My car is 2,250 pounds. I'd estimate, on the high side, another 300 pounds of stuff (extra set of wheels & tires, some basic tools and common spares/backups, etc), some of which will be in the back of the truck. I stay at a hotel, so no camping gear.
Ballpark, that's 2,450 for the car and gear. That leaves 2,550 pounds available for the trailer (including straps, ramps, spare wheels/tires, etc). That has me thinking I can go with a steel trailer and skip the awesome, but super spendy, aluminum trailers.
I know the U-Haul trailers are ~2,200 pounds. I'm having a hard time finding weights for small steel trailers. What's a reasonable price and weight to expect for an open, tandem axle, steel trailer?
I wish I could find someone to make me something like this sweet custom steel trailer that weighed in at a bit under 800 pounds if I recall correctly.
TL; DNR = What's a reasonable price and weight to expect for an open, tandem axle, steel trailer?
After my most recent trip to Roebling (about a 4.5 hour trip each way) in my project car, I've decided to go back to looking at tow options. My car (especially when driven by me) is probably too slow to break anything based on speed, but old enough for random **** to fail and I don't want to have to always count on the charity of friends with trailers.
I'm definitely set on a tandem axle, open trailer with electric brakes and all the safety gear. I'm trying to see if I can work out an option where my wife drives an SUV that can tow. She has a restricted list of vehicles she can choose from, determined by her employer.
The only one that looks like it can tow anything is the Toyota Highlander. The V6 is rated for 5,000 pounds towing. Max GVWR is 6,000. They don't list a Max GCVWR but I've seen it reported as 11,000 lbs. My car is 2,250 pounds. I'd estimate, on the high side, another 300 pounds of stuff (extra set of wheels & tires, some basic tools and common spares/backups, etc), some of which will be in the back of the truck. I stay at a hotel, so no camping gear.
Ballpark, that's 2,450 for the car and gear. That leaves 2,550 pounds available for the trailer (including straps, ramps, spare wheels/tires, etc). That has me thinking I can go with a steel trailer and skip the awesome, but super spendy, aluminum trailers.
I know the U-Haul trailers are ~2,200 pounds. I'm having a hard time finding weights for small steel trailers. What's a reasonable price and weight to expect for an open, tandem axle, steel trailer?
I wish I could find someone to make me something like this sweet custom steel trailer that weighed in at a bit under 800 pounds if I recall correctly.
TL; DNR = What's a reasonable price and weight to expect for an open, tandem axle, steel trailer?
Last edited by Scrappy Jack; 02-25-2013 at 03:53 PM. Reason: Brake != break
#80
I recently had an accident with my light weight 10’ long open deck single axle car trailer without brakes.
Basically the latch broke on the hitch and when it dropped on the safety chains the trailer began snapping back and forth broke the safety chains, the trailer hit the guard rail caught a post and flung the car off where it landed sideways across lanes 3 and 4 of a five lane freeway.
Luckily I was driving a Dodge 3500 truck instead of my Blazer which very easily might have lost control as well. The trailer bent and axle and broke a hub. The car didn’t fare too bad. Dent in the rocker, and some minor fender damage.
After looking around for trailers and buying another used one I decided I really liked the light weight trailer and really it just needed a double axle trailer brakes and a slightly better ramp system.
I just got through ordering all the parts to re-build it to new specs. I’m adding 3 feet of tapered deck to the back of it making the ramps 6 feet instead of 5. By my layout the car should handle the transition well for loading and unloading. Double axles with electric brakes on both, 13” wheels and tires rated at 1750 lbs. per tire. The 13” wheels will make it so the doors on the car will open over the fenders while it is loaded. Bought most of the parts here should look similar to the picture when done.
Trailer Parts Depot – #1 Source for all your trailer parts, brakes and accessories
Basically the latch broke on the hitch and when it dropped on the safety chains the trailer began snapping back and forth broke the safety chains, the trailer hit the guard rail caught a post and flung the car off where it landed sideways across lanes 3 and 4 of a five lane freeway.
Luckily I was driving a Dodge 3500 truck instead of my Blazer which very easily might have lost control as well. The trailer bent and axle and broke a hub. The car didn’t fare too bad. Dent in the rocker, and some minor fender damage.
After looking around for trailers and buying another used one I decided I really liked the light weight trailer and really it just needed a double axle trailer brakes and a slightly better ramp system.
I just got through ordering all the parts to re-build it to new specs. I’m adding 3 feet of tapered deck to the back of it making the ramps 6 feet instead of 5. By my layout the car should handle the transition well for loading and unloading. Double axles with electric brakes on both, 13” wheels and tires rated at 1750 lbs. per tire. The 13” wheels will make it so the doors on the car will open over the fenders while it is loaded. Bought most of the parts here should look similar to the picture when done.
Trailer Parts Depot – #1 Source for all your trailer parts, brakes and accessories