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Old 12-28-2012, 02:48 AM   #281
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ABS if you can get it
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:58 AM   #282
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I would not use wood anywhere near the exhaust system
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Old 12-28-2012, 02:55 PM   #283
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I can get anything I want locally, however went I went in and spoke to the materials expert we talked about some things and came to the conclusion that PVC would be the best for the front bar for example.

Also is ABS just going to melt and sag under the exhaust?

Dann
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:30 PM   #284
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Also is ABS just going to melt and sag under the exhaust?

Dann
Yes it is! Haha. Ask me how I know...

I'm currently remaking my flat bottom out of aluminum.

-Ryan
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:06 PM   #285
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How thick is the AL you are using? Are you using straight AL sheeting, or a corrugated product like Alumalite? That could get expensive fast.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:40 PM   #286
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Volcanic I checked out your fab thread on CR.net. Nice DIY fab work!
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:58 AM   #287
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How thick is the AL you are using? Are you using straight AL sheeting, or a corrugated product like Alumalite? That could get expensive fast.
This is what Im wondering.

Alumalite has a plastic core.

I think thin ply with a reflective material on it and a fully wrapped exhaust would do the job just fine.

The below pic is a cross section of the MX5 tub. You can see the trans tunnel in the middle, the pinch welds are the vertical lines at the outside and inside them is the frame rails.



The pink represents aluminium angle, the blue is 1/4" ply sheet, and the red are fasteners.

Looks ok?

Anyone think exhaust heat wrap and reflective tape cannot save the timber?

Dann
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:53 AM   #288
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Hmm i thought i was subbed here.
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:51 AM   #289
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A couple things -

First off, don't wrap your exhaust. The header is one thing, but under the car can easily get soaked with oils if you develop a leak since it is downstream of the engine/trans, and then instant fire. This has happened to people before. Whatever you make the undertray out of needs to be able to handle the heat without needing to add exhaust wrap.

As for my particular design, I'm not using alumalite. I have alumalite in the garage, but after my first version which was made from ABS, I have seen how much heat is under there, and I feel that the core of the alumalite will quickly be compromised by the heat just like the ABS was. I am making version 2 from .030" aluminum, which by itself is quite flimsy, but it's being reinforced with a gridwork of small aluminum angle, and I've worked out a permanent and lightweight way to bond the angle to the sheet.

-Ryan
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:27 AM   #290
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Bonding the angle with urethane?

Im pretty sure ply with alluminium glued to it along the exhaust path will work fine.

Only one way to find out.

Also Lightbulb moment.

Ill fasten everything to the car with rivnuts (also known as nutserts).

Dann
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:29 AM   #291
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Forget the nutcerts, dezues fasteners.
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:44 AM   #292
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For an undertray I would rather use rivnuts than Dzus fasteners. If everything under the car is built well, then the undertray will not have to come off often, maybe once a year, and rivnuts/bolts will be a lot stronger.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:47 PM   #293
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I haven't used rivnuts, but Dzus fasteners suck
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Old 12-29-2012, 01:04 PM   #294
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From a fabrication standpoint, the rivnuts would be a much easier install to boot. You could just drill holes in the frame rails to mount the rivnuts, whereas with dzus fasteners you'd be forced to install dzus plates anywhere you want to install, since you can't access the backside of anything to locate the springs.
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:28 PM   #295
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Quote:
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I haven't used rivnuts, but Dzus fasteners suck
I've seen this said numerous times but I've had 0 problems with them on 2 different cars now. What kind of problems did you have?
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:13 PM   #296
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I would make the blue line (floor) a lot wider than just to the pinch welds. The air will be sucked in from the sides. At least go a couple of inches past either side.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:05 PM   #297
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I've seen this said numerous times but I've had 0 problems with them on 2 different cars now. What kind of problems did you have?
I used them to attach bodywork on road racing motorcycles. The damn things would always come undone. We had to cover them with duct tape to hold them in place.
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:44 PM   #298
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What materials are people using for flat underbody's?

Im about to put a front end on an NA the same as the blue car with the big Hoosier sticker, and I have a diffuser to put on the back, I was considering just riveting aluminium angle to the pinch welds and screwing an alumalite panel to it with perhaps a few alluminium angle's running across it for stiffness, and of course the whole exhaust will need to be wrapped.

Is there a foolproof option that wont melt? 1/4 birch seems heavy for an entire undertray.

Dann
My rear diffuser is aluminum and going with aluminum underbody after birch splitter. Currently not turbo, but I imagine if it actually got hot enough to melt it then you can just line the top side of the tunnel to insulate. My 2 cents.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:01 PM   #299
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Weld-nuts are better than Riv-nuts. Riv-nuts are great until they come loose, then you can't get your bolt out because the riv-nut is just spinning in its hole, so you have to cut the bolt head off. Weld-nuts won't do this to you.
-Ryan
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:04 PM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodann View Post
Bonding the angle with urethane?

Im pretty sure ply with alluminium glued to it along the exhaust path will work fine.

Only one way to find out.

Also Lightbulb moment.

Ill fasten everything to the car with rivnuts (also known as nutserts).

Dann
Wood is also a bad material for under the car due to oil soak/fire danger. This is why any wood or ply splitter should get a layer of fiberglass laid over the top so it can't absorb oils.
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