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Clutch adjustment help

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Old 04-20-2015, 01:42 PM
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Default Clutch adjustment help

Hey guys,

I have an 04 MSM, I went to do new clutch and flywheel

ACT Heavy Duty Super Street
Exedy 11.9 LBS flywheel.
Also did an OEM rear main seal

All of it new, the problem is, I've driven it a hundred miles or so for break in (I know it's supposed to be 500 for the complete break in period), but I went to get on it a little because I was merging into traffic, and it slipped at 4K.

I read the FM instructions on adjustment (I didn't have anyone to help with the slave cylinder part), and I tried moving the rod out, and I tried it one time and it still slips.

I've read there's supposed to be some free play, and I've read other posts that says there's not supposed to be free play. So I'm unsure.

When I first did the clutch, the pedal release point was closer to the bottom, and I could engage and disengage just fine, and so I left it like that, but that's how it slipped.

I did the adjustment closer to the top, and clutch still slipped, and now almost completely to the top, and it still slipped.

Any suggestions?

I really don't want to take the transmission out again lol.
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Old 04-20-2015, 03:51 PM
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100 miles is not broken in so it wont have the same torque capacity as when its properly broken in.
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Old 04-24-2015, 01:23 AM
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You should definitely have some pedal free play.

There are 2 specifications for pedal free play. One is Pedal Free Play and the other is Total Pedal Free Play. Pedal Free Play is only the mechanical free play before the pedal starts to move the rod, basically where the pedal does nothing at all and just wiggles around and does not push on the rod at all. Total Pedal Free Play includes the hydraulic system and is the amount of pedal travel before the throw-out bearing starts to push on the fingers on the pressure plate.


Adjust the clutch to the picture below and break in the clutch more and if any of those doesnt help, then assume that the rear main seal is leaking from improper installation and that's whats causing the the clutch to slip. Hate to assume the worst but you have to consider it.


Attached Thumbnails Clutch adjustment help-clutch_adjustment_zpsmy7g7xoz.jpg  
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Old 04-24-2015, 01:32 AM
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cool little diagram and explanation.
I'm not sure about the oil part because if you got oil between the clutch/fw it would likely slip like crazy, all the time, not just at 4k

as for the break in, most the clutches I've done never slipped, even just a couple miles after install (and this is on high powered cars too) but I do recall at least 2 incidents in the past where a new clutch slipped for some time and then worked fine. you did make sure to degrease both the clutch plate and pressure plate before install right?
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Old 04-24-2015, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
cool little diagram and explanation.
I'm not sure about the oil part because if you got oil between the clutch/fw it would likely slip like crazy, all the time, not just at 4k

as for the break in, most the clutches I've done never slipped, even just a couple miles after install (and this is on high powered cars too) but I do recall at least 2 incidents in the past where a new clutch slipped for some time and then worked fine. you did make sure to degrease both the clutch plate and pressure plate before install right?

Same. I've done a few clutch jobs and they never slipped. I broke it in with about 550 miles and it still slips. It doesn't seem as bad as before.

And yes, I cleaned it all with carb cleaner before it went in.

A few people (from what I read on m.net) said it could be an issue with the clutch hose. The hose begins to separate internally, and it becomes more or less a check valve inside the hose, so the fluid cannot leave the slave cylinder, and it begins to slip after awhile. I ordered a new stainless clutch hose from TDR and should have it sometime soon.
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Old 04-24-2015, 03:49 PM
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I would replace the slave cylinder while your at it too, they can be found for under $15
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