door bars are worth every cent
12-08-2009, 02:46 PM
#42
This thread is going to cost me more money.
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12-09-2009, 02:28 PM
#54
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Jegster 940008 Jegster Pro Street Door Bars
They would work really nicely I think. Might even create a slightly better ergonomic installation than hard dog if done right.
I still have them. But in the end I got lazy and ordered directly from Hard Dog. I needed a harness anyway so I added door bars to the order. So I have the Jegs bars just sitting in the shop.
Bob
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12-09-2009, 06:58 PM
#57
I actually ordered a set of these to make them myself $52.99
Jegster 940008 Jegster Pro Street Door Bars
They would work really nicely I think. Might even create a slightly better ergonomic installation than hard dog if done right.
I still have them. But in the end I got lazy and ordered directly from Hard Dog. I needed a harness anyway so I added door bars to the order. So I have the Jegs bars just sitting in the shop.
Bob
Jegster 940008 Jegster Pro Street Door Bars
They would work really nicely I think. Might even create a slightly better ergonomic installation than hard dog if done right.
I still have them. But in the end I got lazy and ordered directly from Hard Dog. I needed a harness anyway so I added door bars to the order. So I have the Jegs bars just sitting in the shop.
Bob
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12-09-2009, 07:18 PM
#58
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I would think only if you had the butterfly brace to tie the rails together. Otherwise there is nothing additional triangulating the two frame rails for horizontal plane stiffening.
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12-09-2009, 07:43 PM
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Bob
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12-09-2009, 08:28 PM
#60
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In my professional opinion as a chassis structural engineer a flat plate on the bottom of the car will do next to nothing for stiffness. a flat plate to resist parrelelogramming like where one rail shifts forward and the other one shifts back will also do next to nothing in this case as well because I don’t thing that is a weak mode for the chassis to flex in.
Closing the bottom of the transmission tunnel in a structural way such that it makes the trans tunnel behave like a big tube rather than an open channel will do quite a lot. But you still have that torsion bar concept going on like where the material in the middle of a torsion bar adds minimal torsional stiffness. Hollow bar and a solid bar of the same OD have very similar torsional stiffness and yet the hollow one is ¼ the weight. The trans tunnel being in the center of the car isn’t as effective as material further away from the centroid like near the sills.
The stiffness that the FM butterfly adds to the chassis is mostly from its effectiveness at closing off the bottom of the trans tunnel making it behave like a tube. The problem I see is it could be designed allot better and be lighter than what it is to do this. It needs to bolt to the car near the edge of the tunnel not out by the frame rails. The later model factory braces are much better at doing this than the FM peace. I saw it as way to much weight for the benefit.
Bob
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