NA Miata Suspension Refresh
#1
NA Miata Suspension Refresh
Been driving a 93 NA I pick up back in June with 200K miles. I did all the general engine maintenance right away, but I've held off on a suspension overhaul. I'm thinking about buying the FM Stage 2 Koni kit, and while i'm at it I want to make sure I replace anything else that may be original (while not likely, i don't know the last time it's been changed). I was thinking of picking up this 1A auto kit. The car is pretty much rust free. Is there any reason to pay the premium to replace the entire control arm and not the just replace bushings, tie rods, ball joints, and sway bar links if the arms aren't bent or shot to hell with rust? What about rear control arms? They seem way more expensive and aren't part of any "kit" per se. I found a complete rubber bushing set, but it's like $500 which seems excessive just for bushings. Also thinking of replacing the front wheel hubs while i'm at it. Maybe the rears too? The car rides pretty rough and is damn squeaky pulling in and out of the driveway. Anything else i'm missing?
#2
Street or track use? If your alignment is straight, you wouldn't need to replace the arms.
Do you have a press? Pushing out the bushings and pushing rubber back is nearly impossible without one. Pre-installed bushings are the easy way, but if you want the upgraded hard rubber bushings, you'll have to do it yourself. Poly or Delrin for track use is the way, but those don't need a press to put them in.
The rear upright bushing is maybe the most important - it gets worn quickly. Might as well do the rear hubs since they fail too.
If you are looking for performance upgrades, the steering rack and lower ball joints can be upgraded for less bump steer and more camber.
Do you have a press? Pushing out the bushings and pushing rubber back is nearly impossible without one. Pre-installed bushings are the easy way, but if you want the upgraded hard rubber bushings, you'll have to do it yourself. Poly or Delrin for track use is the way, but those don't need a press to put them in.
The rear upright bushing is maybe the most important - it gets worn quickly. Might as well do the rear hubs since they fail too.
If you are looking for performance upgrades, the steering rack and lower ball joints can be upgraded for less bump steer and more camber.
#3
street use mostly. Maybe a track day in the future, but i've never done it, so 99% street. Haven't gotten an alignment since I bought the car. 10,000 miles and wear seems really even. I should just grease gun the bushings and check for extensive wear before throwing money at something i may not need. No press, but I read the sticky on the homemade version. Was just trying to think of what else I could get done "while i was in there." thanks!
#5
what would you suggest then? KYB AGX with FM springs? coils? A set of used bilstein HDs? It's sometimes a bit hard to tell what info is out of date on the google. Read some people hate the KYB AGX. Read some people hate Tokicos. But both of those thoughts may be from 5 years ago. What's a new enthusiast to do!?
Last edited by popupboost; 03-25-2021 at 10:56 AM.
#6
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what would you suggest then? KYB AGX with FM springs? coils? A set of used bilstein HDs? It's sometimes a bit hard to tell what info is out of date on the google. Read some people hate the KYB AGX. Read some people hate Tokicos. But both of those thoughts may be from 5 years ago. What's a new enthusiast to do!?
#7
Feals are sweet, a bit above your price rprice you could run some bilsteins and have them revalved to the spring rate you want to run, thats probably the best cheap option I can think of. Everything else kinda just compromises ride quality for cost, I've never ridden or drove a miata with cheap good 1 way adjustable or non adjustable coilovers that made me think they were worth the money and time invested into them..
#8
Feals are sweet, a bit above your price rprice you could run some bilsteins and have them revalved to the spring rate you want to run, thats probably the best cheap option I can think of. Everything else kinda just compromises ride quality for cost, I've never ridden or drove a miata with cheap good 1 way adjustable or non adjustable coilovers that made me think they were worth the money and time invested into them..
#9
Are you in need of new suspension immediately? If you're planning this as a winter project Supermiata expects to release their Tecna coilovers in the not too distant future with spring rates that should deliver a downright plush street ride if my 700/400 setup is anything to judge by.
New rubber bushings are indeed more expensive than polyurethane, but considering they should last 15+ years it's not a crazy cost. As mentioned rubber bushings are harder to install than poly.
If control arms are structurally sound it's easy enough to clean and repaint them.
New rubber bushings are indeed more expensive than polyurethane, but considering they should last 15+ years it's not a crazy cost. As mentioned rubber bushings are harder to install than poly.
If control arms are structurally sound it's easy enough to clean and repaint them.
#10
Are you in need of new suspension immediately? If you're planning this as a winter project Supermiata expects to release their Tecna coilovers in the not too distant future with spring rates that should deliver a downright plush street ride if my 700/400 setup is anything to judge by.
New rubber bushings are indeed more expensive than polyurethane, but considering they should last 15+ years it's not a crazy cost. As mentioned rubber bushings are harder to install than poly.
If control arms are structurally sound it's easy enough to clean and repaint them.
New rubber bushings are indeed more expensive than polyurethane, but considering they should last 15+ years it's not a crazy cost. As mentioned rubber bushings are harder to install than poly.
If control arms are structurally sound it's easy enough to clean and repaint them.
#11
I would hesitate to assign a quality hierarchy - what I have purchased from Flyin' Miata has been good stuff, and a 3rd hand used set of coilovers that came on one of my cars should not be used as a standard for judging their product line.
I just happen to believe in 949 Racing / Supermiata's model of developing and racing with most of the products they sell. My personal experience suggests that A) they are very good at developing Miata shocks, and B) they would not bring a product to a competitive market ($800-1200 coilovers) if they did not believe it was a superior offering. That said, this is a product which has not been released so I know no more about them than anyone else. They could be junk, but it would surprise me.
I just happen to believe in 949 Racing / Supermiata's model of developing and racing with most of the products they sell. My personal experience suggests that A) they are very good at developing Miata shocks, and B) they would not bring a product to a competitive market ($800-1200 coilovers) if they did not believe it was a superior offering. That said, this is a product which has not been released so I know no more about them than anyone else. They could be junk, but it would surprise me.
#12
I mean, I just got a set of Xidas in the mail. They look like the same quality as the fancy race coilovers I've seen without the 3/4-way adjustability...and the $4000 price tag. It's good stuff, I'm looking forward to see what their more affordable line looks like.
I've got budget coilovers on my Fiesta (BC Racing). They're alright, but they are NOT a "good" coilover. The biggest issues with cheap dampeners is that they have too much high speed compression dampening. You need lots of low speed compression dampening to control body motion in turns and such. Too much high speed compression dampening causes coilovers to be extremely harsh on streets. It is difficult to build coilover at a certain price that does both well. Budget dampeners like by BC's have "decent" low speed compression, but WAY too much high speed compression. Rides like ***.
If the guys at SM can get an affordable dampener that has soft high speed compression, but firm low speed compression...then it is the ideal coilovers for people who don't plan on building a track car. It's something I think a lot of people should wait and look into when they get released.
Just...don't ask me about rebound. I can't actually afford coilovers that have independent rebound adjustment (~$3000-$5000), so I don't know how it affects handling. You turn a **** and the wizards inside make the shock kickback harder or something, idk.
I've got budget coilovers on my Fiesta (BC Racing). They're alright, but they are NOT a "good" coilover. The biggest issues with cheap dampeners is that they have too much high speed compression dampening. You need lots of low speed compression dampening to control body motion in turns and such. Too much high speed compression dampening causes coilovers to be extremely harsh on streets. It is difficult to build coilover at a certain price that does both well. Budget dampeners like by BC's have "decent" low speed compression, but WAY too much high speed compression. Rides like ***.
If the guys at SM can get an affordable dampener that has soft high speed compression, but firm low speed compression...then it is the ideal coilovers for people who don't plan on building a track car. It's something I think a lot of people should wait and look into when they get released.
Just...don't ask me about rebound. I can't actually afford coilovers that have independent rebound adjustment (~$3000-$5000), so I don't know how it affects handling. You turn a **** and the wizards inside make the shock kickback harder or something, idk.
#13
Really useful info. Thanks! I got out of the car scene for about 10 years to focus on school and paying off debt and **** like that, but I come from a time in the late 2000s where VWs were running racelands, Rokkors, and Vmaxx, which were all pretty terrible. I sought out the FM Koni package as a good riding OEM+ alternative to shitty coils. Guess i'm gonna take a risk and buy the SM offering when it comes out. please be soon!
#14
I know Bronson, who runs https://www.bro-fab.com/, has periodically sold some very very competitively priced DIY billstein coilovers that are just such an easy-mode button. You might consider trying to grab a set from him and maybe replacing your control arm bushings to get a feel for something that's not a 20 year old blown OEM shock riding on torn rubber. They shouldn't really depreciate a ton after a couple thousand miles, and in a few months if you want/need more performances the jury should (hopefully) be out on the newer coilover options.
Either way, Konis are certainly not in the same league as Feal/Techna/Vmaxx options, which in turn are a step below the nice fox/ohlin/xida kits out there.
Either way, Konis are certainly not in the same league as Feal/Techna/Vmaxx options, which in turn are a step below the nice fox/ohlin/xida kits out there.
#17
Just for anyone that googles this thread. I went with Yonaka Coilovers after reading some reviews. The general consensus seemed to be that there wasn't much of a difference between $650 Yonakas and $1200 Meisters Zeta CRD, but damn these suck. Adjustable damping but i feel like i'm bouncing all over the road. My blown OEM suspension was, indeed, better. Lesson learned! However, I would've been much much more pissed if the $1200 Meisiters rode like this. Maybe i'll meet someone that has them and i can get a feeling for them. Someday i'll get my Technas
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