01 sport brakes into 99 - can't bleed front brakes
#1
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01 sport brakes into 99 - can't bleed front brakes
A while ago I bought some used 01 sport brakes to upgrade into my 99. To make the stock brake lines fit the new calipers, I did have to switch the lines side to side. Apparently the little metal support that makes it so you can tighten the fitting into the caliper is upside down from the 99 to the 01. No problem taking the old lines off and switching them.
I finished installing them today and started with the correct order for bleeding the brakes. The rears were fine and bled just as I would expect. However, I can't seem to get the front brakes to build any pressure. There is no pressure on the pedal and no fluid comes out of the caliper. My wife got really tired of pressing on that brake pedal Anyway, I triple checked all of the connections that I messed with and they all seem tight. So, what am I missing? I don't think I broke anything in the brake lines, but I guess it is a remote possibility...
I finished installing them today and started with the correct order for bleeding the brakes. The rears were fine and bled just as I would expect. However, I can't seem to get the front brakes to build any pressure. There is no pressure on the pedal and no fluid comes out of the caliper. My wife got really tired of pressing on that brake pedal Anyway, I triple checked all of the connections that I messed with and they all seem tight. So, what am I missing? I don't think I broke anything in the brake lines, but I guess it is a remote possibility...
#4
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Maybe just a lot more air in the system than you realize. I hope you don't have ABS, that's fun. Try a gravity bleed. Crack all 4 bleeders and let it sit for a while. Make sure your brake reservoir is full.
#6
I didn't bother switching them around though. I didnt realize they could be, until after I had already installed one caliper and was onto the next.
Not that it helps you but I felt it may help someone in the future.
#9
I have one of these,the best thing for bleeding brakes,it makes it so much more easier.
http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...Count2=3028512
http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...Count2=3028512
#10
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I don't have ABS on the car. I will take the bleed screws out and see if they are over torqued, but they move easily and don't look damaged. I will also try the gravity feed option. Maybe I should just invest in that $35 vacuum pump from harbor freight...
#11
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Apparently human power is insufficient Yes, I used a long piece of clean tubing. Didn't get anything. I am starting to wonder if the flow is blocked off somewhere, or if there is some strange byproduct of switching the brake lines from one side to the other. I put those fittings back on pretty tight. Is it possible to overtighten them? I seriously can't think of what else could be causing this. The gravity method did absolutely nothing. I left one caliper open all day and the cap off the reservoir and nothing happened. Guess I am running to harbor freight tomorrow...
#12
Hate to counter with dumb questions that insult your intelligence, so bear that in mind.
Is the resevoir filled with fluid? Has it ever "ran out". If so, you have to bench bleed it. Regardless, you should tear it down and clean it out anyways while the system's open. Clean the reservior, clean the master cylinder, bench bleed the unit, use air pressure and clean fluid to flush the lines, reinstall master cylinder, and bleed brakes while never letting the M/C get low. If it gets air in it you get to start over.
If you've never done this before or any of this is news to you, do some research on it. Might as well do it right the first time for a better pedal and peace of mind.
Is the resevoir filled with fluid? Has it ever "ran out". If so, you have to bench bleed it. Regardless, you should tear it down and clean it out anyways while the system's open. Clean the reservior, clean the master cylinder, bench bleed the unit, use air pressure and clean fluid to flush the lines, reinstall master cylinder, and bleed brakes while never letting the M/C get low. If it gets air in it you get to start over.
If you've never done this before or any of this is news to you, do some research on it. Might as well do it right the first time for a better pedal and peace of mind.
#13
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Thanks for the inputs guys. I finally got the brakes bled. As far as I know, the master cylinder never was empty, but it sure was a PITA. I ended up taking the brake line off at the connector under the wheel well and pulling a vacuum from there (thanks for the mityvac suggestion $35 from harbor freight!). Once I got fluid flowing, I reassembled everything and was able to finish the job. Strangely, it wouldn't work if I kept the bleed valve installed. Apparently the tubing I was using couldn't get a good enough seal around the valve and it would allow air to bleed in from there. So I pulled the valve out and shoved the tubing into the hole. It was slightly larger OD than the bleed valve ID, so I had to finesse it into place. But, once there, it worked like a charm. I then put the valve back in and finished bleeding it until clear fluid came out. Repeated on other side and voila, working brakes! Took it out for a bed in drive and they work great.
They still have a little more rear bias than I car for, but MAN did that nose squat when I laid on the brakes (25mph max). I think I am going to be very happy with this. Anyone in the market for a gently used set of 99 brakes?
They still have a little more rear bias than I car for, but MAN did that nose squat when I laid on the brakes (25mph max). I think I am going to be very happy with this. Anyone in the market for a gently used set of 99 brakes?
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