Track crew: GB feeler for 11.75" rotor bracket for Wilwood Dynalite calipers
#41
#43
The $30 rings are straight vane. The more effective curved vanes are more in the $80 range. As Bbundy said they are better built and longer lasting though. A good buy for the same money as the lesser 11" straight vane rings.
#45
I predict double the life and your pads will last longer.
__________________
#46
#47
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
We've already discussed ducting design, it makes a small difference but not a big one. Directional is supposed to be the bee's knees but it needs to be to make up for the added replacement costs.
#50
#51
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
FYI, I 'm exceeding MOT on my DTC-60's at Eagle's Canyon now. It's tough to be this manly. I don't have this problem at most tracks, but I'm cutting ~75mph off in 5 places here with 4 1/4-mile long straights, lol.
I was braking at 275' for #9 at 135mph early in the session, by 6th lap I was braking at 400' and could not lock the brakes, slowing the car with the trans.
Do we want the slotted rotor to clear the firebrand? I'm on the Raybestos OEM replacements now but I must admit that I miss the crisp pedal of the slotted RB rotor.
Last edited by hustler; 12-05-2010 at 07:15 PM.
#52
I’ve tried both and rotor and pad life went up with the directional rings for sure. Some of that might be because they are heavier having more thermal mass. They definitely seem to handle abuse better without as much thermal stress being apparent after hard use.
I’m currently using Coleman rings both front and rear. 11.75 front and 11.44 rear.
Bob
I’m currently using Coleman rings both front and rear. 11.75 front and 11.44 rear.
Bob
#53
11.75” rotor options just from wilwood
GT directional vane – 9 lbs. (These are slotted. My experience is the slots suck. They increase pad wear and make it difficult to get even pad transfer with most pad compounds that require a bedding procedure.
HD, directional vane – 8.5 lbs. ( plain directional vane, has worked the best for me)
UL, straight vane – 8.1 lbs. (basic straight vane rotor works well not as well as the directional vane ones.)
ULHD, straight vane – 8.1 lbs. (UL with more expensive machining and balancing for which I’m not convinced it is worth the extra cost.)
ULD, Drilled straight vane -7.2 lbs. (aggressive drilling might be cool for autocross to save weight I think my car is too fast and too heavy for that much loss in thermal mass and added stress risers on the track I think)
ULS, scalloped straight vane -5.4 lbs. (holy cow that is light. I might get a set just for autocross)
SRP, drilled and slotted -8.0 lbs. (street poser version that has a nice anti corrosion coating)
My experience has been the HD directional vane is the best track performer. Currently running rings form Coleman however and I think the material might be better. In saving cost I didn’t have them balanced. I don’t notice any out of balance issues with them.
Bob
GT directional vane – 9 lbs. (These are slotted. My experience is the slots suck. They increase pad wear and make it difficult to get even pad transfer with most pad compounds that require a bedding procedure.
HD, directional vane – 8.5 lbs. ( plain directional vane, has worked the best for me)
UL, straight vane – 8.1 lbs. (basic straight vane rotor works well not as well as the directional vane ones.)
ULHD, straight vane – 8.1 lbs. (UL with more expensive machining and balancing for which I’m not convinced it is worth the extra cost.)
ULD, Drilled straight vane -7.2 lbs. (aggressive drilling might be cool for autocross to save weight I think my car is too fast and too heavy for that much loss in thermal mass and added stress risers on the track I think)
ULS, scalloped straight vane -5.4 lbs. (holy cow that is light. I might get a set just for autocross)
SRP, drilled and slotted -8.0 lbs. (street poser version that has a nice anti corrosion coating)
My experience has been the HD directional vane is the best track performer. Currently running rings form Coleman however and I think the material might be better. In saving cost I didn’t have them balanced. I don’t notice any out of balance issues with them.
Bob
#56
Junior Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Houston, TX / Lafayette, LA
Posts: 272
Total Cats: 3
With all this talk of brake balance, has anyone tried to run the front lines together and through an adjustable proportioning valve and have full line pressure go to the rear?
Let me know if I'm a way off in left field, but it seems like it'd work in my head...i think...
Let me know if I'm a way off in left field, but it seems like it'd work in my head...i think...
#58
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 1,361
Total Cats: 17
A prop valve is not an end-all solution if your front & rear brake hardware are poorly mismatched. It's more of a fine tuning. Stock Miata brake hardware is matched closely enough that an aftermarket prop valve will let you send enough of an increase to the rear (relative to the stock valve) to create an excessively oversteery car. If your lack of rear brake is caused by upgrading to massive front brakes while keeping stock rear hardware, the solution is to upgrade the rear hardware to bring it more in line with what you've done to the fronts, not to decrease line pressure to the fronts.
#59
Bob