I have 1st gen 15x8 6ULs and they fit with this kit but you need 5mm spacers like Hustler said. Otherwise the caliper will hit the spokes. I use them on the track with 5mm spacers but 8mm would be better for a little margin.

 

thanks guys. mt.net kicks ***. i'll get some 8mil spacers and some studs.

 

I should note that my example is with old *** ET40.

 

I should note that with my example it clears the spokes fine, but the caliper is close to the bell.

 

Also you have to get the wheels balanced with the weights away from the front edge of the barrel. Otherwise the weights will hit the caliper. Not a big deal just need to be aware. This is true with any of the 6ULs.

 

oh yeah i forgot. i'll bolt up and take a measurement. iirc emilio said to allow 4mm clearance under track conditions. i'm assuming that applies to both generations.

 

Unrelated:
I had a rear brake-line fitting hit the wheel weights on the inboard lip and almost kill my weekend.

 

I specifically ask for a single-plane balance to make sure the wheel weights clear the calipers.

 

The wheel weights on my 15x9 6UL also had to be removed since they were hitting my Wilwood billet Dynalites. I then had the wheels balanced with the weights on my wheel lips. The tire shop was kind enough to paint the weights black so they aren't noticeable on my black wheels.

Would changing to forged Dynalites (from my billet dynalites) give me more clearance? It sure doesn't look like I have 4mm of clearance to the bell of the wheel (even with the 5mm spacers). Though there is no evidence of contact.

BTW I was previously able to absolutely cook my Wilwoods with XP12s on the factory sport rotors. With the 11.75" Trackspeed kit after a full 30 minute session of abuse there was no sign of fade. At this track: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mission_Raceway_Park

 

So here's a question for everyone who has installed this kit.

The 4 bolt's (per corner) provided, are all the same.

The one's which bolt through caliper to the aluminum bracket, are of adequate length and get a good number of threads to engage.

Q1 : Bolt Length
These same bolts, bolting through the front upright/caliper ears, and into the aluminum bracket, do not engage the entire threaded bore, of the aluminum bracket, on the other side. Now I know this is an adequate amount of thread engagement, as confirmed by Sav, but wondering if anyone else noticed this, and felt the same trepidation's as I have. I can't say that I would see anything wrong with getting a 1/4" - 1/2" longer bolts to replace them, even just for peace of mind. This way the bolts going through the upright-ears, would engage ALL the threads in the aluminum bracket on the other side.


Q2: Bolt Diameter
Also, the diameter of the upright-to-bracket bolts, is slightly smaller than the OE one's they replace. Therefore, they are 'loose' inside the bore of the factory upright-caliper mounts/ears. Now, I realize with it all bolted up tight, they center in the bore and wouldn't be able to move, but still seems to me like their diameter should be more closely matched to the bore of the upright-ears. Maybe a threaded insert/sleeve to center them in the bore of the upright-ears, to maybe load the bolt up more evenly across the entire length of its shaft?

Hope this is explanatory enough to figure what I mean. I can take and post some pics for examples if necessary.

 

The tire shop can put the weights in the bell, away from the caliper. Mine balanced fine this way.

 

^^ Single-plane balance I believe is the name for it.

 

I understand the trepidation, but it is completely irrational. You said it yourself - the shorter bolts engage "a good number of threads", and all the bolts are of the same length. Therefore, all of the bolts engage "a good number of threads" regardless of any unused threads in the bracket.


The major diameter of the factory M10 bolt is 10.00mm. The major diameter of the 3/8" hardware we use is 9.525mm The difference is 0.475mm, or 0.018". If you wanted to create a bushing, it would need to be 0.009" on each side.

Metric hardware would have increased the cost of the kit, and with a diameter difference of 0.018" we decided that it was just not necessary.

 

I think you should make special set of caliper brackets with blind holes and helical tap so the bolt JUST bottoms out, then charge him x2 the cost. Scratch that, x3 the cost.

 

Come on, give the guy a break. If you take away the fact that Sav has run the snot out of this kit, then a bolt that holds on the brakes being loose would make me a little nervous too.

 

I know, sorry. A little harsh GT42R, all in jest though.

 

I've installed and been running the kit for nearly a year now, so I'm obviously not too concerned about it, I was simply inquiring if others had made similar observations and what they thought out it. Thanks for the responses.

 

TSE Biggest Brake Kit came into my house and disrespected my famiry.

 

Only two days left of our 11.75" Big Brake Kit sale! $100 off our BBK through October 21st. This reduces the price to $800 for the full kit, and only $450 for the upgrade kit.
http://trackspeedengineering.com/sto...bbk-p-100.html
Be sure to place your order before midnight on Friday, October 21st!

 

Not sure if these fit or not, but it could be an affordable option for the 11.75" brake kits at $25 per rotor:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...nch,14004.html