This will fit any NA/NB front upright, correct? I like.

 

Yep, should fit 90-05.

 

The $30 rings are straight vane. The more effective curved vanes are more in the $80 range. As Bbundy said they are better built and longer lasting though. A good buy for the same money as the lesser 11" straight vane rings.

 

I will likely try a set of directional-vanes to see whether I get significantly more life out of them.

 

I predict double the life and your pads will last longer.

 

double? does the ducting design make any difference, or is directional really that much better?

OT: my '95 m3 commuter has directional vane on all 4. respect.

 

We've already discussed ducting design, it makes a small difference but not a big one. Directional is supposed to be the bee's knees but it needs to be to make up for the added replacement costs.

 

WTF are the "bee's knees"? Do they have knees?

 

They're what I use to pleasure your girlfriend. I can't be bothered to discuss this further, I am busy sipping Cris and ******* twins with the Cali crew.

 

A bunch of guys and two girls? That's a bad ratio to me man. Whatever floats your boat though. I'm not gonna judge.

 

Never sneak up on a man who's been in a chemical fire.


FYI, I 'm exceeding MOT on my DTC-60's at Eagle's Canyon now. It's tough to be this manly. I don't have this problem at most tracks, but I'm cutting ~75mph off in 5 places here with 4 1/4-mile long straights, lol.

I was braking at 275' for #9 at 135mph early in the session, by 6th lap I was braking at 400' and could not lock the brakes, slowing the car with the trans.
Do we want the slotted rotor to clear the firebrand? I'm on the Raybestos OEM replacements now but I must admit that I miss the crisp pedal of the slotted RB rotor.

 

I’ve tried both and rotor and pad life went up with the directional rings for sure. Some of that might be because they are heavier having more thermal mass. They definitely seem to handle abuse better without as much thermal stress being apparent after hard use.

I’m currently using Coleman rings both front and rear. 11.75 front and 11.44 rear.

Bob

 

11.75” rotor options just from wilwood

GT directional vane – 9 lbs. (These are slotted. My experience is the slots suck. They increase pad wear and make it difficult to get even pad transfer with most pad compounds that require a bedding procedure.

HD, directional vane – 8.5 lbs. ( plain directional vane, has worked the best for me)

UL, straight vane – 8.1 lbs. (basic straight vane rotor works well not as well as the directional vane ones.)

ULHD, straight vane – 8.1 lbs. (UL with more expensive machining and balancing for which I’m not convinced it is worth the extra cost.)

ULD, Drilled straight vane -7.2 lbs. (aggressive drilling might be cool for autocross to save weight I think my car is too fast and too heavy for that much loss in thermal mass and added stress risers on the track I think)

ULS, scalloped straight vane -5.4 lbs. (holy cow that is light. I might get a set just for autocross)

SRP, drilled and slotted -8.0 lbs. (street poser version that has a nice anti corrosion coating)

My experience has been the HD directional vane is the best track performer. Currently running rings form Coleman however and I think the material might be better. In saving cost I didn’t have them balanced. I don’t notice any out of balance issues with them.

Bob

 

Bob you are the man.

 

My Chikara brackets were $180 and use 01 sport front rotors for a grand total of $35/ea from Mazda.

 

With all this talk of brake balance, has anyone tried to run the front lines together and through an adjustable proportioning valve and have full line pressure go to the rear?

Let me know if I'm a way off in left field, but it seems like it'd work in my head...i think...

 

??? Not sure I get your point. Our Corrado brackets are cheaper, and so are the rotors, but this thread is about bigger rotors than Sport/Corrado stuff.

 

Nobody uses a prop valve on the fronts. The fronts do most of the work when braking and that's how you want it- max line pressure with a consistent 1:1 slope of pedal pressure in to line pressure out for ease of modulation (prop valves adjust a knee point and are inherently non-linear) and adjust the rears as necessary. Max line pressure to the rear can create a dangerously oversteery car under hard braking.

A prop valve is not an end-all solution if your front & rear brake hardware are poorly mismatched. It's more of a fine tuning. Stock Miata brake hardware is matched closely enough that an aftermarket prop valve will let you send enough of an increase to the rear (relative to the stock valve) to create an excessively oversteery car. If your lack of rear brake is caused by upgrading to massive front brakes while keeping stock rear hardware, the solution is to upgrade the rear hardware to bring it more in line with what you've done to the fronts, not to decrease line pressure to the fronts.

 

I have to admit I tried it once early on when I didnt know what I was doing. It sucked.

Bob

 

Thanks Scott and Bob. I guess whats the point in increasing the front brakes only to cut pressure to them. kinda defeats the purpose.