Red and black material
Ok, final version..
Talked to Brian Littlejohn, the engineer who actually made the kit. The Miata kit is not graphite impregnated. The red and black are the same non-impregnated material. Turns out virtually none of the OE replacement control arm kits for any car are impregnated. I will only stock the black because it's more stealth. Also Bill durometer specs are what they made. I measured the first set I got in about an hour ago. So no toe control compliance built in to the rear kit. 95 durometer front uppers and sway bar bushings 88 durometer everywhere else Super Pro 80 durometer Polybush orange 75 Polybush blue 65 |
Thanks for clarifying.
|
thanks for the leg work, its appreciated
i will shove my foot in my mouth now...repeatedly i still like the black ones better for same reason as why you will stock them... |
is it a huge stretch to make the graphite impregnated variety or did he give any indication of performance differential? I suppose a nice can of molybdenum lube would go a long way to provide a dry film lubrication.
|
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 227308)
is it a huge stretch to make the graphite impregnated variety or did he give any indication of performance differential? I suppose a nice can of molybdenum lube would go a long way to provide a dry film lubrication.
He told me in all honesty that you could assemble the Miata kit bone dry (Don't!) and it would probably last 15 years, just squeaky. The lube provided increases life, reduces friction and keeps them quiet. Another cool tidbit, the two piece bushing is designed to have a .050" gap when installed. You can add a bit more lube to the opposing faces when installing and have a bit of a reservoir acting directly on the center pin. One could also careful align a zerk to fill that void. He emphatically recommended against using a powered grease gun, manual only, two pumps max. |
Is the toe control feature designed into the OEM bushings even an issue with aftermarket bushings?
|
Originally Posted by soflarick
(Post 227343)
Is the toe control feature designed into the OEM bushings even an issue with aftermarket bushings?
Without the compliance effect, you get no dynamic toe in. That might mean running factory rear toe setting for autocross or track use as opposed to the zero toe I recommend for factory bushings. No exact value, just experiment and see what works for you. I'm compiling a list for all the durometer values I can find for all the OE and aftermarket kits. If anyone has accurate data to share, please do. |
Checked durometers and they match Bill's original request and Brian's data.
88 Energy Suspension front lower and all rear control arm 95 Energy Suspension front upper, sway bar and differential mount 80 Super Pro control arm, all 65 Polybush blue- soft 75 Polybush orange- sport ? Powerflex 70 Maruha rubber 55-65 Mazda Comp rubber Safe to say the ES will be the best peformance option. No idea on ride quality yet as I haven't gotten them in a car yet. Planning a test session in about 10 days at Streets of Willow. Base kit - Control arms only http://www.949racing.com/server/ES_Miata_113105-6_L.jpg |
A couple of questions about installing the zerks:
-Did you drill all the way through the bushing? It would seem so, since you'd want the grease to distribute to the inside of the bushing. -How much does the zerk protrude into the bushing? -Is there any fear of the zerk fixing the bushing in place. -Any advantage in using thread in vs press in? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 227941)
-Is there any fear of the zerk fixing the bushing in place.
|
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 227936)
C |
RISE, ZOMBIE THREAD!
...always better to resurrect an old thread than start a new one. I've got a set of these bushings that came with my 949 'big grip kit', I'm getting ready to install them on some freshly sandblasted/ painted control arms and subframes. Can what I've read/ learned be confirmed for my install: -I understand that these will be installed, then possibly have the poly end faces sanded slightly to make the center metal bushing fit snug against the subframe. (see Keith's Targa build pic: Targa Miata) -I also understand that I may need to use a flap wheel or sanding roll to ream the ID of the poly bushing so the metal bushing does not bind. -If the metal bushing does not move from the bolt/ subframe, and the poly bushing doesn't move from the control arm/ zerk fitting, why would we grease the poly-to-control arm mating surface? Wouldn't glue be better to prevent movement? All the movement is supposed to be on the inner metal bushing to poly pushing (ribbed) surface. Lastly, during this set-up, is my goal to have the arm 'floppy' and bearing like; or should there be a *slight* amount of sticktion/ binding (easliy moved by hand)? Thanks- |
Originally Posted by vortexblue
(Post 950658)
RISE, ZOMBIE THREAD!
...always better to resurrect an old thread than start a new one. I've got a set of these bushings that came with my 949 'big grip kit', I'm getting ready to install them on some freshly sandblasted/ painted control arms and subframes. Can what I've read/ learned be confirmed for my install: -I understand that these will be installed, then possibly have the poly end faces sanded slightly to make the center metal bushing fit snug against the subframe. (see Keith's Targa build pic: Targa Miata) -I also understand that I may need to use a flap wheel or sanding roll to ream the ID of the poly bushing so the metal bushing does not bind. -If the metal bushing does not move from the bolt/ subframe, and the poly bushing doesn't move from the control arm/ zerk fitting, why would we grease the poly-to-control arm mating surface? Wouldn't glue be better to prevent movement? All the movement is supposed to be on the inner metal bushing to poly pushing (ribbed) surface. Lastly, during this set-up, is my goal to have the arm 'floppy' and bearing like; or should there be a *slight* amount of sticktion/ binding (easliy moved by hand)? Thanks- |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:46 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands