Notices

99-00 Adaptronic Standalone Install

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 4, 2011 | 07:35 AM
  #21  
skir's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 60
Total Cats: 0
From: berkshire, UK
Default

Originally Posted by triple88a
LC1 reads 14.7 narrowband reads 15.3 so little over half a point.
I doubt it's a big issue tbh.

The narrow band only has 0-1V of definition, therefore it is likely to be a fair bit less accurate than your wideband reading, so the difference is probably just that. As long as your wideband has been calibrated and you've perhaps used another wideband to confirm the others readings are accurate it shouldn't be a problem.
Old Nov 8, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #22  
triple88a's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,522
Total Cats: 1,830
From: Chicago, IL
Default

After trying V10.. i'd say stick with V9 firmware.
Old Jan 22, 2012 | 11:39 PM
  #23  
triple88a's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,522
Total Cats: 1,830
From: Chicago, IL
Default

Been a while, heres my new map. Not many changes from last one but few on there.
Attached Files
File Type: ecu
Trip120122.ecu (8.0 KB, 229 views)
Old May 12, 2012 | 10:52 PM
  #24  
triple88a's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,522
Total Cats: 1,830
From: Chicago, IL
Default

Non select ecus... I'd recommend doing this too (when doing the other cable swaps).

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...968#post876968
Old May 15, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #25  
skir's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 60
Total Cats: 0
From: berkshire, UK
Default

Have you got a link to the original post on the adaptronic forum please?

edit:- no worries I found it.

Last edited by skir; May 15, 2012 at 08:13 AM. Reason: info no longer needed
Old May 15, 2012 | 02:33 PM
  #26  
lassi's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
From: Bergen, Norway
Default

Originally Posted by triple88a
Been a while, heres my new map. Not many changes from last one but few on there.
Had a look at your map and mine looks like ---- compared to yours. How much of the cells on your map is tuned and how much is just interpolated and smoothed? Both fuel and ign.

Are you using slow converge and autotuning in boost?

You mention transition smoothness linked to predicted map table. Any tips on how to tune this table?
Old May 15, 2012 | 04:04 PM
  #27  
triple88a's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,522
Total Cats: 1,830
From: Chicago, IL
Default

Originally Posted by lassi
Had a look at your map and mine looks like ---- compared to yours. How much of the cells on your map is tuned and how much is just interpolated and smoothed? Both fuel and ign.

Are you using slow converge and autotuning in boost?

You mention transition smoothness linked to predicted map table. Any tips on how to tune this table?
I started off with a new fuel map (post 1 u can see its interpolated from corners). That was a fresh map from scratch and thats the only time i've used interpolate from corners. I ended up giving up on the map Travis did and started one from scratch where the base settings were correct from the start.

I started tuning first with rapid tuning 100 rpm and 5kpa tolerance, then set the map to untune and go 50rpm then with slow coverage to 25 rpm 2kpa. I only use autotune up to 110kpa and 5krpm. My ignition... i smoothed it a tiny bit so theres no odd peaks.

In boost I log, then add and subtract fuel where it's needed then play with the ignition after that.

As of the other day i've switched to a twice more detailed map.
Old May 15, 2012 | 04:22 PM
  #28  
triple88a's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,522
Total Cats: 1,830
From: Chicago, IL
Default

Predicted map table tunning.

This can be done with 1 person but it's dangerous. Use the F2 gauges.

Anyhow go to 1k rpm, (in gear most likely) open the throttle to 2% and see what kPa you're at, enter that on the 2nd one down,

Then again 1k rpm open the throttle 5%, see what kpa you're at and that goes on the next one under it.

then 15%, then 50%, then 100%. For 15% i got 92kpa, for 50 and 100% it's 100kpa


For 2k rpm, get the engine to 2k rpm and then again 2% 5%.... you get the idea.

When you get to the upper cells 4-5k rpm 15%+ for sure you'll be in boost. Take what kpa you got and subtract half the boost. When you first step on the gas there is turbo lag which will not be calculated if you were to do the same thing you did before. For boost it's more by feel and a good guess but it's very close to half of your max boost... then adjust from there.

So say u got 150kpa, you subtract half your boost so you'd enter 125kpa and see how that works.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
StratoBlue1109
Miata parts for sale/trade
21
Sep 30, 2018 01:09 PM
nick470
MEGAsquirt
7
Jun 16, 2017 01:53 PM
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
Apr 21, 2016 03:00 PM
lsc224
Miata parts for sale/trade
2
Oct 1, 2015 09:17 AM
JesseTheNoob
DIY Turbo Discussion
15
Sep 30, 2015 02:44 PM




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:35 PM.