A couple of questions Stein:

1) Are you currently running the stock 99 injectors?

2) You don't use COP; right? I assume you're running wasted spark.

3) Do you have any plans to run injectors in sequential mode at any time?

Thanks - didn't see the kits before.

Depending on your IC you can drill and tap a 3/8" NPT thread directly into the tank and screw the GM IAT sensor in there (on the exit side) and skip the bung entirely. You can see pictures of mine in the DIY IC link in my sig.

1) Correct
2) Correct on both
3) Yes, they are ran sequentially.

Any known benefit to running the AEM WB via the serial output versus the 0-5v output that I normally use with megasquirt? (Not sure if you know this offhand.)

From the installation manual:

The serial connection is preferable to an analogue connection because the ECU can determine if the sensor output is valid by other information in the serial packet (for example, sensor temperature), and default to the analogue input (or indicate an invalid reading) if no information is available. With an analogue input, there is not usually a way for the ECU to determine if the sensor is giving valid information or not.

Because of this I wired serially.

That is reason enough for me to take my dash apart to run the wire. Thanks for the leg work holmes.

it was enough for me to buy the upgrade for my super old techedge WBO2 to the proper serial comm scheme.

Injectors are always ran in full sequential with the Adaptronic Rafa. Thats how they are wired from factory.

Thanks.

I'd like to reiterate my thanks to Stein for an outstanding writeup. I hope he won't mind assisting me and others when it comes time for us to make our own installs.

I'm probably the last person you want to ask, but what I DO know I will gladly share. feel free to pm me any time:)

Don't say that... You guys are trailblazers. Anything the rest of us can learn from your collective experiences will only make it easier for the next install. As time goes by, I hope to see a repository of Miata specific information... You ran into some problems and may have mad some mistakes... So what! It's learning experience. I've been reading your threads just as intently as I've read Stein's threads. Just keep info coming guys. Once I get a window, I plan on getting mine installed and document it as best I can, but first I have to deal with some TPS/heat issues. And once the car stops throwing TPS codes, I'll get on with the install.

Stein; 1 one quick question: I was rereading your install writeup and when you talk about the MAP sensor you don't specify whether you also bought it from Travis. I'd like to know if I will have to change the one I currently have (a 2 bar one from a Supra) or if I need to buy the 3 bar one.

If so; Travis: can I buy one from ebay? Which one?

travis has good prices on the right MAP sensor. I got one with my kit.

Mine was from Travis. The only issue that I can think of using yours is getting the ADC settings right.

It is a GM 3 bar MAP sensor.

Any 5v map should work, but it needs to be linear. Its only a 2 point calibration in the Adaptronic software. The GM map is 99.8 percent linear I think I read somewhere which is why they use it.

Ok guys... I'm not sure if this question should go here or in a new thread, but here it is. I see in the instructions that y'all are using a GM IAT sensor on your IC charge pipes. In my case (a supercharger) will I still need to use the GM unit or can/should I use the OEM unit that is mounted by the air filter (SC install). If I do need to use the GM unit, where should it be installed? After the SC in the cross over pipe to the intake?

I was also wondering if it wouldn't be easier to just get a 5/16" tee with a 1/4" coming off it so you would just have to run a 1/4" line to the GM MAP unit?

I would definitely put the IAT after the SC in the cross over pipe. That way the temperature rise from the SC can be compensated for by the ECU.

What ZX-Tex said on the IAT. You will still build some heat with the SC.

The reason I went with a 5/16" x 3 tee is that I couldn't find one with two 5/16" and one 1/4" but I could find a 5/16" to 1/4" straight reducer so that's the way I went. If you can find a 5/16"x5/16"x1/4" go for it.

Nevermind... See my next post... :o