TravisR

iTrader: (9)

The new units will be fixed before they are shipped. You live in Louisville man, I'm less then 30 minutes away from anywhere in the city. Its not exactly like your marooned from help anyways.

43 Kpa is normal for idle.

If you want to send a unit back and you have a VVT harness I'll go ahead and make the change. I just don't want to get flooded with units from everyone at once. That a way I can get the people who really need the fix just to drive their car done first. Then people who haven't installed or want preventative maintenance can send it back.

PhantomRoadster

It's at 10%. I'm not sure where to see that in the logs.

I checked and the base idle position was reading 10 instead of 60 like last time. I set the control values to 0 and lowered the idle screw. It was only able to go down to 950rpms with the screw pretty much closed. Turned off the car and couldn't restart the car with the idle screw being turned all the way to the right. I turned the screw a few more turns counter clockwise and the car was able to start again. That seemed to reset the throttle position to normal again. Now that idle is around 900 again my settings are all off. Adjusting open loop base idle doesn't seem to do anything anymore. Car shuts off when I turn on the lights and stalls when I'm taking off. The car seems to be boosting so much quicker now but I now have lean tip in. Going to have to adjust the predicted map all over again.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

If you want to see what it's doing in the logs, just pull up any log and view the "Idle" variable. the number corresponds to duty cycle I believe.

fwiw, my car idles at 30-35kPa.

AutoFreak57

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I know. I pm'd you to stop thread jacking

PhantomRoadster

I'm having the same idle issues again. Car would start off with an idle value at 60 with an idle around 1000. Once the car warmed up the idle value would lower to 10 and the rpms would rise to 1200.

Last time the issue went away by be turning the idle screw all the way down and trying to start the car like that. Turn the screw back to normal and the car was back to normal. This didn't work this time. Lowering the idle screw all the way closed only brings the rpms down to 1000. But I can not start the car this way.

Yesterday I took the intake manifold and throttle body off for cleaning. I also cleaned the pathway to the IAC vavle. I lightly sprayed into the IAC vavle but didn't mess with it too much since I heard cleaning the valve it's self could make it worse.
Not sure if the valve is closed or open?
I tested the resistance of the iacv and got a normal reading of 11. So it supposed to be still good.

Now the idle is worse after the cleaning. Even at an idle around 60 it idles around 1500. And when the idle figure lowers to 10, nothing happens. I feel that cleaning the iacv opened the pathway to make the leak worse.

I've tried to lower open loop idle settings to see if it would lower idle but it doesn't do a thing (yes I set PID to Zero).

I've looked for other leaks and haven't found any. The injectors don't seem to be leaking.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

PhantomRoadster

Also do i need to jump ground and ten, since it's aftermarket ecu?

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

The valve looks closed. With everything assembled and car idling, remove your charge pipe from the TB inlet and use your finger to plug the IACV intake port.

Do you have the jumpers on the harness board to let the stock ecu handle idle control?

After reading your first post here again, I had similar issues, but that's the day that I discovered pebbles in my IACV. The issues hasn't come up again since.

PhantomRoadster

stock ecu isn't handling idle. Not sure if it has jumpers but I have too large injectors anyway.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

Pretty sure the jumpers would only control the IACV. And in my head it should work, but who knows. I'll see what happens when I put my big ones int.

PhantomRoadster

Just tried it. Rpms lowered to about 600. Would this indicate its stuck open a little? When I had it out, the spring cylinder looking thing didn't completely cover the first valve. You can see it is resessed a little in the picture. How do i clean or fix the valve without damaging it. Again I checked the resistance and got a 11 so it should be working normal.

PhantomRoadster

Also since the idle didn't completely stall when I covered the valve. Does this mean there is a small leak somewhere else?

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

It would also depend how far your idle screw is set in. I had mine backed all the way out and it would stall when I covered up the little port.

I put TB cleaner in the IACV (which I probably shouldn't have) and just lubed up the threaded rod in there after drying it all out.

Don't forget that I am also a n00b, so take what I say with a grain of salt

PhantomRoadster

just took the throttle body off again. Should there be a gap on it's valve? I can see light shine through.


Any help with any of this is much appreciated.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

There should be some gap. That looks like a much bigger gap than I have with my 900 rpm idle.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

The valves only really work between 60-100 percent duty cycle. So, if you go below 60, the valve is just off. It sounds like you have too much air going in. If the computer even opens the valve a little bit the car is idling too high. If you put the PID to 0,0,0 and then put the IAC valve to 73 you then want to adjust the idle screw to where the car idles at the RPM you want it to.

Also high mixture richness can cause problems with idle being too high. See if you can lean out the idle a bit more.

Best,
Travis

PhantomRoadster

By being off do you also mean closed?


Setting PID to 0,0,0 at 60 already has a 1200 idle. Wouldn't raising it to 73 make it higher? Even if I lower the screw all the way it idles around 800 but then wouldn't I have trouble starting? AFR right now is already at 13.8 when warm. I thought this was typical for a few of us. At one point it would stall at any leaner than 14.


Also since I set PID to 0, do I still need to use a jumper when adjusting the screw?

Either way thanks for the advice. I'll try it out.

PhantomRoadster

OK I just tried and it didn't help. I got a 1000rpm idle with the screw all the way in. And lowering the afr barely did anything to lower idle. Just made the idle hunt.
I'm still not sure why I would set idle to 73 if I'm trying to make the IAC valve to shut when warm. I would think this would just keep it open even when I don't need it.

The other thing that confuses me is that when I first start the car when warm the idle will hover around 600 rpms before rising. I feel like this is where idle would normally sit where the screw is at now.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

This is actually not the case. Even though I tested and got the same result on the adaptronic on another user's car.

They go down to about 15% duty cycle.

we had the same problem with super high idle. dropped the lower limit down to 15% (ish) and it went away.

PhantomRoadster: you can view the idle value in the logs under the variable (get this!) "idle"

PhantomRoadster

Yea I know it's going down to 10 like i've said before.

PhantomRoadster

Could my timing be the cause of this? My ignition is around 17 at 1100rpm idle. Lowering timing to 7 helped the idle but I don't want to be running something that's unsafe. Maybe this is why I get such a low idle right after warm cranking. What's a typical timing value at idle?