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Old 08-20-2009, 12:15 PM   #1
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Default Traction Control

This thread over at the Adaptronic forums has piqued my interest.

traction and launch control

Following the link to Racelogic's site, there looks to be an easier solution than swapping uprights and hubs for those of us with non-ABS cars.





Wheel_Speed_Sensors

RaceLogic's retail price on a set of four hall effect wheelspeed sensors is $461.00.




Digikey has something similar for $28 a pop.






Digi-Key - 55075-00-02-A-ND (Hamlin Electronics Limited Partnership - 55075-00-02-A)

If that doesn't work, the DigiKey part number is 55075-00-02-A-ND



The Hamlin part is 12mm in diameter, while the RaceLogic is 6mm. This might make it a little more difficult to squeeze behind the brake rotor, but at 1/4 the price it might be worth it.

Think this will work?
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:24 PM   #2
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we use these exact 6mm sensors on the cnc at work.. Loads cheaper than racelogics... i mean real loads. in English pounds im talking 7-10
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Old 08-20-2009, 12:33 PM   #3
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How about being useful and giving us a link to where you buy them....
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:09 PM   #4
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you dont need 4 btw. there's only one SVSS input on the adaptronic.
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:19 PM   #5
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so...you can only measure off one wheel? How is that useful?
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Old 08-20-2009, 01:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
you dont need 4 btw. there's only one SVSS input on the adaptronic.

Yeah. Even if Racelogic would sell a sensor separately it'd still be 4X the cost.


The computer limits slip based on the signal from the MVSS (speedometer drive) and SVSS, which the Hall sensor will hopefully take care of. The slave vehicle speed sensor will have to go on a front wheel.
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Old 08-20-2009, 03:47 PM   #7
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What kind of sensor are you looking for? They appear to be a standard industrial part. I'm assuming they're a DC inductive proximity sensor. I've picked up the Cutler Hamer units off eBay pretty cheap. Volvo even used a Siemens unit for thier CAS.

Post specs if you have 'em, I'm sure we can find something that will work.
--Alex
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Old 08-21-2009, 10:03 AM   #8
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Is "I have absolutely no idea what I need" an acceptible answer?

All I know is what was posted in the thread on the Adaptronic forums. A Hall effect sensor is easier to get up and running than a reluctor, so I'd imagine the sensor on RageLogic's site would be among the best. No idea on the specs of it though.
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Old 08-21-2009, 10:33 AM   #9
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Looking at the datasheet, what the automotive industry calls a "hall effect" sensor, the industrial world would call an "inductive proximity" sensor. I'll see what I can find. The DigiKey unit is pretty cheap though....
--Alex
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Old 08-21-2009, 10:50 AM   #10
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I'm still confused as to how only being able to use 1 of them and not at least 1 on each of the rear wheels is at all beneficial.
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Old 08-21-2009, 12:52 PM   #11
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you already know the speed of the rear wheels. that's measured by the MVSS or the sensor that drives the speedo in your car now.

what you need is a slave vehicle speed sensor (SVSS). it will measure the speed of one front wheel to tell you how fast the car is actually going.

think about this:

you're doing a burnout without traction control and the front wheels are going ZERO and the rear wheels are going, say, 30 mph. what is the speed of the car?

when the ECU sees a disparity between the sensors (actual speed vs. drive wheel speed) it says "oh shnap, i've got no traction holmes!" and cuts power until you DO have traction. ta da.
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Old 08-22-2009, 04:15 AM   #12
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I picked up the ebay ones linked on the Adaptronic forum. I haven't had a chance to try them yet though.

Sensor
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
you already know the speed of the rear wheels. that's measured by the MVSS or the sensor that drives the speedo in your car now.

what you need is a slave vehicle speed sensor (SVSS). it will measure the speed of one front wheel to tell you how fast the car is actually going.

think about this:

you're doing a burnout without traction control and the front wheels are going ZERO and the rear wheels are going, say, 30 mph. what is the speed of the car?

when the ECU sees a disparity between the sensors (actual speed vs. drive wheel speed) it says "oh shnap, i've got no traction holmes!" and cuts power until you DO have traction. ta da.
What if you're going through a tight corner and the left front wheel is turning a lot slower than the right front? What if your SVSS sensor is on the fast turning wheel? Will the ECU think "i've got not traction homies!"?
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:15 PM   #14
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zoink
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Old 04-12-2012, 06:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB View Post
What if you're going through a tight corner and the left front wheel is turning a lot slower than the right front? What if your SVSS sensor is on the fast turning wheel? Will the ECU think "i've got not traction homies!"?
My easy answer is this: I don't even have an adaptronic anymore. And I never had ABS hubs! But suffice it to say that if you need a more sophisticated system, you've gotta run more sensors.

I suspect there's a tuneable amount of slip allowance in most systems so you can run a single wheel road speed sensor but I haven't played.
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:26 PM   #16
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There is a method to add the capability for two extra inputs on the 420c it involves some work on the internal guts of the ecu, soldering a couple of wires to pins on the cpu I was told. I don't know exactly what is done though as I gave mine to the adaptronic importer here in the UK to do the work. It cost me a couple of hours labour.

This will allow me to have two mvss and two svss sensors. As the UK importer knows what to do I'm sure adaptronic HQ know too.
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skuzzle View Post
we use these exact 6mm sensors on the cnc at work.. Loads cheaper than racelogics... i mean real loads. in English pounds im talking 7-10
Hi nick any info on these I suspect a wonky sensor on the s/h racelogic I am trying to fit I am in Scotland
bob
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:38 PM   #18
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Just to add to this I recently got some simple circuits made up to convert the analogue signal from the stock abs sensors to a digital one for the adaptronic to use. I was unsure if they would work but they were cheap so it was an acceptable risk. They work fine.

As I have the earlier 'red' Adaptronic I had to get it modified for two extra inputs at a cost of about $60 and the convertor circuits cost about $30. The 'black' 420 already has 4 inputs so wouldn't need that work. We tapped into the abs wiring at the plug into the hydraulic unit, attached the circuits and ran lines from them to the ECU. abs still works with no dash light being displayed showing an error.

Obviously this saves buying and fitting separate sensors. My car is an '04.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:46 AM   #19
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Interesting, let us know how well it works!
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:06 AM   #20
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I've yet to play with the tc settings as I need a bit of private land and then to chuck the car about to find what's best, at the moment it just has some basic settings supplied by adaptronic loaded.
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