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Barge Board / Flat Floor Design

 
Old 10-12-2018, 10:05 PM
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Back to barge boards! Is it worth while to add any elements to the leading edge? Like a fence or anything?
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Old 10-15-2018, 04:58 PM
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Appreciate the feedback and photos so far. I'm curious about the leading element question, but I have a gut feel that's too far into CFD land to have conclusive evidence that makes it worth the effort.

As far as mounting is concerned, what is the rough feel for the weight that a flat floor needs to support? I can stand on my splitter leading edge (175lbs) without issues. Is it safe to say you should design a flat floor with similar capabilities? My intention is to add the least amount of weight as possible which ties into hardware / bracket quantities and sizes.

Edit: I don't intend to be able to stand on my barge board
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Old 10-16-2018, 11:48 AM
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Personally I would consider ability to apply a human sized load to barge boards a decent test given the loads it will see are likely under such a force.
I would also imagine that such a test is not as necessary because the lower pressure areas will be near the pressure differential creating areas.
So the splitter and the diffuser and the parts near them will need the most support but how much depends on your efficiency and design.
A brief look through McBeth will show that the forces are not just applied at the devices and the devices design affects how much of that is on the central floor portion.
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Old 10-16-2018, 09:36 PM
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Old 10-17-2018, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Twibs415 View Post
Back to barge boards! Is it worth while to add any elements to the leading edge? Like a fence or anything?
I would listen to Moti, Ryan and Emilio on this as they all have things upwind of theirs so will have tried creating vortices to seal the underside wrapping airflow.
In Moti's Morpheus MotoIQ article it is stated that his front splitter does this but I am not sure of the timeline and whether it actually worked.
Its also worth noting Moti runs aggressive spring rates so likely will have a different affect than people who have bounce in their shocks.

From your pictures I would also recommend shaping that rear flap some what to make it less abrupt. Sharp turns generally create drag by the bucket. Once again you can look to Moti (I think on Morpheus) for a single panel design that curves out allowing gentle change of direction.
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:11 AM
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Maybe my question wasn’t clear. On the leading edge of the barge board. Note moti and Ryan have nothing there while the pic of the gtr has some furniture attached. Disregard my picture because it’s not done. I was just showing a mounting method
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Old 10-17-2018, 11:05 AM
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I'd believe elements on the barge board would more care and work than the average person has resources for.
I would also assume that anything on the barge board would be preparing air for use by something further downstream (ie not the barge board). My assumption for this is that vortices and such take "time" (ie distance) to form so elements that aren't dive plates won't apply their effects until after. Those effects could also be unhelpful or far wider ranging than initially though without testing, CFD or both.
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Old 10-17-2018, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Twibs415 View Post

Any shots of how you're supporting the outside edge? Thanks!
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:35 PM
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I would avoid using Dzus fasteners for any flat bottom elements and highly recommend switching to something with positive retention like bolts and weld nuts.
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:43 PM
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Why because fear of dropping a dzus or the load compressing the spring?
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:00 PM
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I like the concept of using a flush mounting method, but I'm not sure I'd trust Dzus fasteners for a load bearing in that direction. I'm currently digging around hardware websites to find a combination with a bit more positive retention like Moti has mentioned. Most of what I'm finding is going to force me to give up having true flush mounting. Not sure a bolt head sticking <1/4" from the surface of the flat floor will give noticeable air flow issues.
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:12 PM
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Hat inserts with recessed bolt heads
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:32 PM
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In for pictures of how these things are mounted on other's cars.

For Street/StreetMod class TA cars, the bargeboard outboard edge may extend up to 3" past the body and the inboard edge may not extend past the pinchweld which removes the possibility of mounting it to the frame.

I'm looking for inspiration. Trying to come up with an incomplex way to mount the bargeboard to only the pinchweld that still provides sufficient support for the loading the board may see.

Materials:
I'm considering PVC trim board for ease of machining and price. (Can be purchased locally for cheap) A quick search says I can expect roughly 1.1lb per foot on the 8 inch wide board (might be too wide)

Last edited by ChrisLol; 10-17-2018 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisLol View Post
In for pictures of how these things are mounted on other's cars.

For Street/StreeMod class TA cars, the bargeboard outboard edge may extend up to 3" past the body and the inboard edge may not extend past the pinchweld which removes the possibility of mounting it to the frame.

I'm looking for inspiration. Trying to come up with an incomplex way to mount the bargeboard to only the pinchweld that still provides sufficient support for the loading the board may see.

Materials:
I'm considering PVC trim board for ease of machining and price. (Can be purchased locally for cheap) A quick search says I can expect roughly 1.1lb per foot on the 8 inch wide board (might be too wide)
I used that stuff last summer and it needs a ton of support and it still was all wavy and sagging between supports. you would have to run a piece of aluminum angle along the edge of the whole thing to get it stiff enough.
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by matrussell122 View Post
I used that stuff last summer and it needs a ton of support and it still was all wavy and sagging between supports. you would have to run a piece of aluminum angle along the edge of the whole thing to get it stiff enough.
Good to know, thanks.

That wouldn't be too big of a deal but is surely going to increase weight and cost... Will need to rethink that.
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:07 PM
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What about 1/2" Birch Ply like all our splitters for a cheap option?
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:55 PM
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No one uses "search"?



More pics in the Morpheus thread.
Is there interest in those pucks?
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Old 10-17-2018, 05:34 PM
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On the point of attachment of flat floors to the vehicle, I contacted a company here in the UK called Clarendon Speciality Fasteners with regards to my solitter design. Their aerocatches have a safe working limit of 270kg per catch! (Whats that like 500lb?) Meaning a set of two for ~$50 should be capable of supporting 1000lbs and still be quick release.

​​​​​​Certainly will be looking to utilise these on my splitter

Wilson
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Old 10-17-2018, 05:37 PM
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Do you have a link? and it is only 595lbs
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Old 10-17-2018, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisLol View Post
For Street/StreetMod class TA cars, the bargeboard outboard edge may extend up to 3" past the body and the inboard edge may not extend past the pinchweld which removes the possibility of mounting it to the frame.
Which rulebook is this per? Gridlife or others?

Edit: and Moti I was aware of your setup. Super nice. I just know that's not really an "off the shelf" design which is more where I was trying to direct ideas to. Do you have any rough estimate on sale price for pucks like that? I'd imagine they aren't the cheapest thing to turn out on the lathe and drill press.

Last edited by Padlock; 10-17-2018 at 06:20 PM.
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