Well, as long as the glove box is there... :giggle:

wouldnt want it to be TOO aerodynamic or light weight... might give you an advantage over others... :drool:

They follow the fender/bumper so there is some angle, but I could improve by adding canards.

that didn't help the Veyron that bounced off the tire wall in phoenix a few weeks ago haha

I was working that event. while I don't advise ANY cornerworker taking their eyes off a cornerstation while working, there were only 3 cars on track so I managed to snap a few pictures.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367893215

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367893215






anyways, ill be updating this thread with my DIY aero as soon as I can get some good non phone pics. HUGE difference on track with just a "crusher" type airdam and an APR gtc200

I guess the Stig wasn't driving. But of course its going to matter how fast your going to be effective.

From 400-300kph maybe, but JC talks alot of shit - it's his trademark.

Here is some thing I found quickly

"It employs carbon disc brakes and is supplemented by the rear wing that acts as an airbrake at speeds higher than 200kph.The brakes can withstand a maximum heat of 1800°C. Also when the air brake is at an angle of 55 degrees, it generates 70 percent of an average car's braking force."

And as for the DRS wing we were talking about previously, why not make the wing angle level off as the top speed of the car is reached. At lower speeds have the attack angle at 15 or so degs.

So, 70% rear brake at 200kph? :D

70% of a normal car's brakes in the rear at 200kph. The regular brakes do quite a bit more than that.

Here: .68g for the air brake, 1.3g for the discs.

Dollars spent: ~$100
Hours spent: roughly 18 or so
How effective: 3, HUGE improvement
Materials used:
*APR GTC-200 universal wing
* some misc bolts from ace hardware
*steel flat bar similar to this available at home depot then cut into various lengths
*plastic ABS sheet from speedway motors
Size/thickness of materials:
1/8" thick plastic sheeting for airdam, L Stock to mount uni-GTC 200, 1.5" x 1.5" L stock, 1/2" x 1/8" steel flat bar.
Bracket location: airdam is attacked to front bumper via washers/nuts/bolts
Tracks tested on: INDE Motorsports Ranch, 2.3 mile configuration 4
Race/TT class built for: NASA TTD



To start off, I got the APR GTC-200 for relatively free from my teammate who got it off craigslist for $40. yes, forty bucks. got to love crackhead pricing. I mounted that to the trunk using 1.5"x1.5" L stock, cut into ~10" strips and then grinded down into a wedge shape so that I could still use the trunk. still a very tight fit and has taken some paint off the trunk. oh well.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061163



the airdam material is 1/8" thick and comes in a 10 foot roll from speedwaymotors.com. Found this material from a post within this thread, youd be a fool to not use this stuff. super easy to cut, stiff but flexible.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061163


covers up MOST of the tire sticking out. current wheel/tire is a 15x8 +25 on 205/50 NT01s.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061163

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061163




HUGE improvement with on-track behavior. before, all I had was a GV-replica lip. With this, I was able to take a corner at the end of the straight at INDE WOT in 4th, were others (comparing with miatas) had to brake and then turn in. There were a few times where I almost lost the rear end due to hitting a berm, but the car was VERY predictable to get back in control--almost drift like-- whereas before I would've probably spun out. turning the wheel seemed to be noticeably slower, yet the car went wherever I pointed the wheel and just stuck.

not my video, but this is the track/configuration I ran:
This was my first day with the aero on and as much of a shock it was to me and was trying to get used to it, I was able to run a 1:50.016 with this package/205 NT01s with roughly a day of tread left on them, FM front bar w/stock rear, 4.3 LSD, koni yellows with 500F/350R springs and a '99 motor swap w/122hp to the wheels. The next comparable Miata/my competition to mine was just over 3 seconds behind my time, usually we are within a half second.

track record is a 1:47.493 in TTD in a supercharged Miata with fresh hoosier 225's..

im hoping to break that record next time I hit that track in the fall with fresh hoosiers. also debating on tossing in the 4.78 gears I have sitting here.


as the car sits, I still have 6 points left before im maxed in D. :D

Couldn't resist


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061517

haha yup! that would be robs car.

probably more damage than the cost of my house and everything I own.

I like the new paint job, its like marbleized. Now what about the other side

Using a parachute to slow down is much different than using rear brakes at the tires. One directly reduces traction available at the tires while the other increases drag at the rear.

Post the Veyron to Clubroadster, they'll like it even more with it's "battle scars". Needs more zip ties though.

haha nothing a little buffing wont fix!

that picture doesn't show the cracked headlight and side mirror, and various dents on the whole driver side.

needs a little more than buffing!

Dollars spent: Scrap Aluminium
Hours spent: 1
How effective: 1
0=slower, 1, no improvement, 2 =slightly better,3= big improvement
Materials used: 5052 Aluminium
URL, brand name, material type
Size/thickness of materials: 1/8"
.060", 3/16" etc
Bracket location: Under fender
Tracks tested on: N/A
Race/TT class built for: N/A

So to vent out high pressure air out of the wheel well

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368410281

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368410281

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368410281

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368410281

Could the fender improve with a gurney flap?

Where at exactly? Info