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Needs to be slightly smaller than duct behind so that the air dam butts up against the edges of the duct. For the opening to be the exact same size as the aluminum duct and still have them seal properly, especially since the air dam shifts around a bit at speed, the duct would have to be mounted to the air dam. This I didn't want so that the air dam is still removable in the shortest amount of time.
The tubing running to the brakes is 2" diameter, so any opening larger than the surface area of a 2" circle isn't very necessary. The openings in the bumper skin are still a larger area than the area of a 2" circle, so no need in making them larger. -Ryan |
Originally Posted by jpreston
(Post 1054447)
I used those for my first undertray. They held up fine under aero loads but bent back/down and failed in an impact.
My second iteration (for a splitter) used a round bar bolted on with the front bolts of the steering rack bracket, then hooks attached to the splitter for a quick disconnect setup. The heaviest hooks I could find were still pretty light duty and bent when I dropped two tires on corner exit and the splitter caught dirt. Current setup that I'm testing this weekend is what emilio alluded to a page or two ago with a "tongue" cut into the splitter that then gets wedged into the area between the steering rack mounting points and rests on that pinch weld on the subframe. It goes under the rack and over the pinch welds. It's a tight fit and has very little vertical play with the front hard mounted. (I'm not a fan of cables for the front.) All of the metal subframe/steering components in that region are pretty beefy, so the expectation/hope is that the wood will just splinter and buckle on impact. My only concern with this setup is that it could buckle upward enough to take out the radiator, but I'd probably have bigger problems than the radiator at that point. Haven't taken any pics yet since I'm reusing my old cracked and splintered but still functional splitter to test this setup. I can snap a pic or two tonight if anyone can't picture what I'm talking about. |
Ryan that looks good, you did some good metal work with that aluminium
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8 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Track
(Post 1059113)
It's been a while since you posted this, but I would like pictures of your new airdam/splitter setup.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381343659 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381343659 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381343659 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381343659 |
Originally Posted by jpreston
(Post 1061231)
Started with a bad sheet of plywood that started splitting as I was cutting it, didn't get time to paint it, then it rained the entire weekend. Fail. Worked well enough to smash the old TTE record, though.
Thanks for posting the pics. It's hard for some guys that have never fabricated anything to grasp it when I explain it. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1061240)
Pretty much what we do here except cables instead of rigid struts. I like the thing to be able to deflect upwards if it hits a kerb.
Thanks for posting the pics. It's hard for some guys that have never fabricated anything to grasp it when I explain it. |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1061325)
So when it's fully mounted, you could just grab the front splitter edge and lift the splitter up if the airdam is removed?
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Is there any scenario where air gets under it and it takes an upward plane with the cable mounts?
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Originally Posted by mr_hyde
(Post 1061420)
Is there any scenario where air gets under it and it takes an upward plane with the cable mounts?
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Originally Posted by mr_hyde
(Post 1061420)
Is there any scenario where air gets under it and it takes an upward plane with the cable mounts?
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Originally Posted by mr_hyde
(Post 1061420)
Is there any scenario where air gets under it and it takes an upward plane with the cable mounts?
If it's has a splitter function worth the price of plywood it should be pulled down at any speed. Would "safety" straps for the rear edge be a good idea to keep it hanging on when it gets trashed (rather than hanging loose and bounce around)? Taking the checkered flag with lower risk of terminal damage has some value. |
Originally Posted by mr_hyde
(Post 1061420)
Is there any scenario where air gets under it and it takes an upward plane with the cable mounts?
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Big fan of the cables as well. Mine will be cables and based off of the one I helped build on Sonny's car but with a few tweaks. Should be able to remove it in a few min which is nice.
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What is the preferred Home Depot Motorsports material and fasteners for the cables? I toyed around with it in my early design and didn't find anything I really liked. I ended up with a rigid aluminum rod threaded into LH and RH rod ends but I like the idea of upward deflection on curbs, loading and mowing the lawn.
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Originally Posted by mr_hyde
(Post 1061756)
What is the preferred Home Depot Motorsports material and fasteners for the cables? I toyed around with it in my early design and didn't find anything I really liked. I ended up with a rigid aluminum rod threaded into LH and RH rod ends but I like the idea of upward deflection on curbs, loading and mowing the lawn.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1061757)
I'm thinking hooks, eyelets and cable knarps. I cant figure a good way to make a cable adjustable.
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Finding cable at Home Depot Race Supply is trivial. If you want to increase the strength of a small eye bolt, welding up the gap at the end of the loop does nicely.
Mine are adjustable from the eye bolts themselves. They're threaded, of course, so I simply run them in/out to the desired length and then use a jam nut to lock them. Obviously the cables need to be close to the correct length first. |
I used aluminum turnbuckles on the car side to take up cable tension, and I used cable and clevises from Harbor Freight, along with eye hooks on the splitter.
Fork Terminal for 3mm Wire |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Supe
(Post 1061791)
I used aluminum turnbuckles on the car side to take up cable tension, and I used cable and clevises from Harbor Freight, along with eye hooks on the splitter.
Fork Terminal for 3mm Wire Google "swageless terminal" and click images tab https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381451544 |
2 Attachment(s)
They worked very well, were about $5 a piece (cheapest I could find anywhere), and easy to assemble. I just used some aluminum ferrules and a vice to crimp the other end in an eye loop that went to the turnbuckles. Bad pic, but this was the end result.
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