I use Luan as core material in my carbon sandwich panels. I don't think it's available locally in anything but 1/4".

Word. We had the same problem when I used to Road Race motorcycles.

Hm, it is available in many sizes locally for me. Maybe they'll ship it to you lol

so do not do a "flat front" until I have a rear wing?

Correct. It will unbalance the car and your tail will race you through every corner. :crx:

Can you get some pictures of how it mounts? Also, whats it weigh? Im considering doing something similar, just without the splitter portion that extends beyond the front bumper.

Haven't weighed it, but maybe 6-10lbs at the most. Front to rear is 4ft, cannot remember the width.

In the first pic you can see the 4 x 10mm bolts. There are 5 8mm holes in the subframe, I drilled and tapped them for 10mm (I believe these were for the factory undertray.) The outside of the frame rails also have some 8mm holes in them which were drilled to 10mm. I used 1" metal bars for those. I used two 8mm threaded rods for the front two supports that attach to 2 of the 3 holes in the sheet metal you can see in the bumper opening. The front two will need more work as they started to pull through the thin sheet metal after the last track day.

hey just a quick question r u guys leaving out the factory belly pan that hugs the bottom of the rad when u install splitter or r u resealinng it

i used the factory belly pan but trimmed it down to right after the radiator ends.

I don't use it. You need to seal the radiator ducting.

Not a miata, but this was my old smf car. Had it one for the last event of the season last year. Didnt even have the air dam on and it made so much more front grip I could not keep the ass end of the car behind it to save my life.

Attachment 185901

Attachment 185902

Attachment 185903

Held to the lower rad support by 5 5/16 bolts and held to the bumper with 6 more. Super overkill, extended 6 inches from the body work, went to the wheel well openings, only because going to the centerline of the front wheels would have been a complete pain in the ass. 1/4 exterior grade pine plywood.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341478685
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341478685
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341478685
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341478685

Not track tested yet, but im hoping it will cancel out some of the understeer i got after putting on tg gtc200 wing. atleast it strong enough. 6mm plywood, 2layers of fiberglass pr side.

that looks lush.

do you have any better pics of underneath where it is fixed etc.

how far back does it go?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1341486561

heavy duty(but lightweight) alu brackets up front, 4 10mm bolts from underneath(2 pr side). and connected to the subframe all the way back at the steeringrack.

you do know oil coolers don't work well that way up??

Holy crap thats overkill for sure. A layer of glass on one side and making sur it went over the edges would have been more than sufficient. You may have just made it hard enough that it'll crack the first time you hit something with it. Heck just straight 1/4 plywood is good and you can get the redbull F1 effect, at least those of us limited to a 3* attack angle think about that.

Leafy, have you used 1/4" birch ply with good success? I'm looking for something lighter than my current 1/2"

I used 1/4 exterior grade pine. To tell if its exterior grade look at the edge and you'll see that the glue is black, that denotes the water proof glue (typically). The normal plywood glue is not water proof. But if I had to do it again (and I will) I would coat the edges with resin. It did start to warp a bit after a few snow storms of daily driving.

people keep telling me they wont work.. they are overheating, im not, so i really dont care. :)

but im guessing there is a good reason why my car should be running hot, but isnt. ..

Because you live inside arctic circle?