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The biggest issue I face with my Tubro 1.8 build is heat, car is making good power but it also creates a lot of heat. I have SuperMiata coolant reroute and crossflow rad, running distill water with Mocool. it helped but water temp is still on the high side. After using meth injection it further cooled the intake charge and lowered the heat produced. At the end I even removed the AC so the car do not overheat anymore on track. Due to the pandemic I have more time and decided to build some custom rad shrouds and bumper air vent to better improve the air flow to the rad. it’s simple mods and it definitely improve cooling so I can step on it w/o worry.
air inlets for radiator cooling, fit on NB not sure a about NA. 16G aluminum shroud, tried to simplify the design and save weight. Mounted using factory holes Needa trim the rad support a little to allow more air flow
Side ducting plates are definitely easier and look better without the A/C in place.
What is the NACA duct on the undertray feeding to?
Transmission cooling?
I'm looking at undertray NACA ducts to feed my brake cooling since the OEM foglights are used for oil cooling on the cold side and a duct to the CAI box on the hotside.
I thought Emilio's work on Crusher(?) showed that the rad inlet was too big, and he made it smaller. You may have bigger heat rejection requirements though.
I would be double checking that you have ALL the air passages blocked, including forward into the bumper garnish, out through the sides, and up over the top of the radiator. Basically, ensure that ALL the air entering the radiator mouth exits via the radiator. Your ducting may do that, but if so there is much not shown in those photos.
I thought Emilio's work on Crusher(?) showed that the rad inlet was too big, and he made it smaller. You may have bigger heat rejection requirements though.
I would be double checking that you have ALL the air passages blocked, including forward into the bumper garnish, out through the sides, and up over the top of the radiator. Basically, ensure that ALL the air entering the radiator mouth exits via the radiator. Your ducting may do that, but if so there is much not shown in those photos.
ya, I used a huge shop fan and my vape to check the air flow(pretty ghetto) all smoke seems to pass thru the IC to the rad. The 2 bumper inlets I made are very functional because they allow direct fresh air flow to the top portion of the rad. In my case with the cross flow rad, hot water flow from in front passenger top and it can be too hot to touch while the driver side is cool. Very little trimming to the rad support in order to fit them.
Huge gains in cooling efficiency from removing bumper beam and core support as Z33Taxi suggested. At least one company now making bash bars but it looks like you have the knowledge and resources to make your own. Top of you rad core isn't getting much airflow.
OverRev, I love seeing threads like this, with thoughtful design and well-executed fab.
It's funny in a way, because it makes me think back to 15 years ago, when this forum was young, I was considerably less old, and the standards were a hell of a lot lower in general.
Back then, I (and others; you know who you are) were doing what, at the time, passed for innovative stuff which impressed people.
These days, seeing stuff like this makes me feel like a rank amateur. Largely because I stopped learning new stuff somewhere along the way.
Also, holy hell, I just noticed that you joined this forum about the same time as Emilio & I. Where the hell have you been this whole time?
OverRev, I love seeing threads like this, with thoughtful design and well-executed fab.
It's funny in a way, because it makes me think back to 15 years ago, when this forum was young, I was considerably less old, and the standards were a hell of a lot lower in general.
Back then, I (and others; you know who you are) were doing what, at the time, passed for innovative stuff which impressed people.
These days, seeing stuff like this makes me feel like a rank amateur. Largely because I stopped learning new stuff somewhere along the way.
Also, holy hell, I just noticed that you joined this forum about the same time as Emilio & I. Where the hell have you been this whole time?
ya, I built my first turbo NA like 16-17 yrs ago. Back then using E-manage and Garrett turbo. Not a lot of supports on forums at all. I sold it when I had to relocate for work, and 2.5yrs ago I decided to build another one for the 30th anniversary reunion. I went and tracked at Laguna Seca in the last 2 yrs. too bad I didn’t have time to finish the build by then, it did fairly well and it’s still an on going project. Nowadays with a lot more parts and tech available, the build is in a totally new level. Although it’s not as fast or pwrful as my other cars, it’s definitely more fun and direct. I still highly recommend others to pick up a miata for track as a inexpensive starter.
Huge gains in cooling efficiency from removing bumper beam and core support as Z33Taxi suggested. At least one company now making bash bars but it looks like you have the knowledge and resources to make your own. Top of you rad core isn't getting much airflow.
interesting! I only know it’d save some weight if I replace the huge plastic rebar with a steel tube. how could that help cooling? The opening on the bumper is pretty much the size of my IC and only minimal air could flow up, unless I cut the bumper. I double checked before I decided to cut opening on both side of the emblem and made air ports to cool the radiator.
08-20-2020, 04:19 PM
Radiator cooling ports
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