NBoost

Looks like a fine red-tail feather you got there. Hawk's nest come free with the car?

x_25

Lots of things came free with the car, the feather is my friend's though, it did not. He put it in there for luck. Seems to be working since the car generally runs well (except when it doesn't.)

So the Link has been mostly installed, few things left for my friend to do and it should be drivable again. He also had to get a new rear caliper and put that in.

Fun fact, you can idle a 91 with 1.8 injectors on the 440cc turbo base map, without an O2 sensor or IAT sensor. This is done by switching it to sequential injection mode. Don't ask why my friend tried it this way, but he did. I am baffled as to why it worked.

For those keeping track, even with the new tires that were just bought, and all the things bought but not installed yet, he is still only at about $3k into this car total, and he will have the VooDoo, MSD and Ebay manifold/churbo/downpipe to sell when he gets the new stuff in. Not bad!

x_25

Link ecu is in and the car will start but not stay running. I am 98% sure the fuel pump is not staying on and also 98% sure I know why, after lookjng over the wiring diagrams.

The trace that connects 2P and 2R in the Link is cut. This is the mod needed for using a wideband (which gets sent to 2R). The wire in 2R gets moved to 2P and a new wire added. This wire has not been moved, and it runs to the A connected. I am betting that 2P (and unmodified 2R) run the fuel pump. Fingers crossed that is all it is. I will know tonight when I can get over to my friend's for some hands on with the car.

mmmjesse

Let me look at my notes from the car the link came out of to see if i noticed anything in regards to that. It must have had something different as it ran fine before i swapped it to an MSPNP2.

mmmjesse

looking at the schematic, 2r is not used from the factory and 2p is for the mass flow signal.

LT green is the fuel pump switch wire that goes to the MAF but it goes to your circuit opening relay(under dash at steering column) and the diagnostic port. Make sure it is seeing a ground signal when starting or just ground it and see if the pump runs.Grounding the LT Green wire in the diag port(while key is on) SHOULD cause the relay to kick on for the pump.

There is nothing in the Link documents that say that other wiring has to be changed when adding the wideband. Just have to swap a wire.

I will try to give you any support you need to get this going!

x_25

Fuel pump problem ended up just being a wire in the wrong place (which has come loose again, will fix it later, just jumping it in the diag box). O2 is hooked up and reading nicely in the Link. All the sensors are reading well and all that jazz.

The problem, that I am utterly baffled by, is that the car starts and runs wonderfully with the NA OEMinj base map loaded. We can adjust master fuel from 140 to 124 (difference between 1.6 and 1.8 injectors) and the car idles right at 14.7 with no tuning and everything is fine. The moment we switch it to any of the other base maps that expect bigger injectors, no amount of changeing the master fuel setting can get it to idle below 18ish AFR. It runs super lean no matter what. Even with MF cranked up to 140 (max). We can lean it out even more by turning master fuel down more.

Is there a setting somewhere we are missing? fuel injectors idle at 4.3% duty cycle on the OEMinj setting, but idle is at 2.7% duty cycle in any of the other base maps. Even the NA440inj one. Anyone seen anything like this before?

mmmjesse

What injectors are you running? I seem to remember there are certain limitations to the changes you can make to each basemap.

x_25

Tan tops from a 95 1.8. 265cc.

Calculated master fule is 123-125, when set to the OEMinj base map, 124 nails us right at 14.7 in cells that should be.

We need to look at injector offset and injector offset slope as well as a few other things, didn't get time lasy night, but I don't think they would make a huge difference?

x_25

So my friend couldn't get the USB link working (probably something to do with windows 7? will need to look into it) and dumped all four base maps into excel by hand. When he is motivated he can get anything done. Rather impressive, I would not have had the gumption to do that.

Anyway, I compared them all for differences trying to figure this out and really can't find too much. Couple things dealing with start up, the throttle position sensor zones are way different between the OEMinj map and all the others. TPS low and TPS High are 225 and 71 in the OEMinj map and 22 and 34 in all the others. Changing all those settings over from the OEMinj to the NA 440inj map made it idle closer to where we want, but doing the same with the Turbo 1 map did nothing. Odd.

All that said, my friend found out that while you can't raise the master fuel setting above 140 in the main menu, if you raise it in the zone edit menu you can go to the full 8 bit value. So a bit of math based on % difference between the AFR we had and what we wanted and he punched in 173 for master fuel. Seems to be working and tuning ok. Only issue is, while it will run with that value while it is on, it resets back to 140 when you cycle the ecu. I think we will just try scaling all the fuel zones by 140%. But that can wait until we get DLL working since the intercooler and IAT sensor are currently not fully installed.

Speaking of those, I made a modification to the IAT so we can install it easier. a 1/2" NTP Male to Male pipe fitting and pipe cap, some big heat shrink, a bit of the old valve cover and bam, protected IAT sensor that we can screw into wherever we want. Probably the end tank of the intercooler, there is no other metal I feel reasonable threading between that and the throttle body. Also, the sensor would just have to be tugged lightly and then have the heat shrink cut off and it would be 100% back to normal, no permanent mods and it is suspended all with flexible material to not have to worry about heat stresses.

I wish I had remeberd to take a box of the wiring and bits my friend has taken out of the car. So much random stuff in there!

Picture of the sensor sans pipe cap:



Updated engine bay shot with the AFM delete and new "intake" from the greddy "kit".



My friend working on repairing the stock harness...

x_25

My friend dropped by with Ratchet this evening. I am impressed how well the base map for the Link runs, certainly not perfect, but totally driveable. Anyway, goals for the day were to get the IAT in and the intercooler more solidly mounted. We also adjusted some of the intercooler to throttle body piping to get it tucked up under the car rather than being the lowest thing on it.

So first we drilled and tapped a large (1/2" NPT) hole.



and loctited the sensor in.



bent up some threaded rod



And added some hardware and an intercooler.



It all fits nice.





I am curious as to why the bumper support and baby teeth spots are so rusty though, the rest of the car is not that rusty at all.

So with all that done, the car is running and driving well and we are on to tuning!

Also, the turbo now makes a slight fluttering noise when letting off the throttle? I mean, it sounds amazing, but it really shouldn't be doing that. Any ideas? We have the BOV as loose as it will go.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

You are making good vac between shifts and stuff? If your idle valve is causing things to stick at higher KPA the BOV will resist opening some.

x_25

The IACV is plugged since we haven't tuned it yet and it hunts all around. It is on the long list of things to do.

Boost gauge says -20inhg (we weren't on the MAP display for the link, I will have my friend look at that). I am fairly sure the gauge is not reading correctly though since it flips between -20 and -10 like the hose is pinched. That said, the BOV hisses even if you let off the throttle a little, so it is definitely making enough to actuate it. Not a huge concern since my friend has another turbo and manifold ready to go in soon and is making maaaaybe 6psi right now. (gauge says 10psi, but I don't believe it since the 1.8 injectors are flowing enough to hit 9.5afr at full boost on stock pressure).

I am mostly curious about the surge starting after installing the new ECU. Maybe it is just that we can actually hear it now that the AFM is out?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I see more than -20 when I let off throttle, but I idle around -20 on the gauge or ~28kpa in the logs. My valve is closed fast at that pressure, the only way it will open is with pressure in the intake. I can make my turbo flutter when I want like a true ricebro but it still works whenever I want it to, or when it really needs to. All I have to do is hold the throttle a bit.

Just an idea, if the tune isn't letting the car run down into vacuum right it will probably mess with the bov.

x_25

My friend is seeing 13kpa on throttle lift, should be enough I would think? yes? No?

Also, it maxes out at 160kpa under heavy load up hill. So about 8.5psi. Not bad, more than I expected, and the gauge says 11psi for that, so it is off.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, that should be enough. I never see much less than 18kpa.

x_25

Well, odds are it is a cheap ebay HKS SSQ knock off so who knows if it works right to begin with. We will have to poke at things and get logging working.

x_25

Still having the compressor surge. We are continuing to ignore it. The car is otherwise running well, though spool is getting later and it sounds like it has an exhaust leak. ~7k miles on the ebay header at 8psi or less. I bet it will be cracked when it is swapped out.

x_25

We have confirmed danger to manifold!

Was fairly sure I heard a leak on it and my friend has been noticing later and later spool. 7k miles and less than a year at 6-7psi.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Not surprised, it's thin junk.

x_25

Nope, not surprised in the least. We knew it was goin to go and were just curious how long it would last since it came with the car.

My friend is already half way throigh removing it to put the artech/greddy and the td04 on.