$2018 GRM challenge turbo miata build. with added insanity.
 

Challenge budget so far:
purchased 1999 Miata from John for 800

sold engine, sensors, and top to yupididit for 660

sold/traded torsen rear to self for noisy open rear and 200 recoup

bought 04 3400 from Buick rondevous from Patrick for 75 (going to pick up next weekend)

bought 98 camaro 3800 T5 and bellhousing/shifter/hydraulic throwout bearing from adams auto parts: 132.50

bought 3500 intake and exhaust manifolds from pull-a-part 106.75

bought used nitrous kit with bottle heater and chopped up feed line and no pills for a 4bbl from a yardsale in a trailer park near fayetteville: 25

used and abused hoosier SM7 slicks: 20 for the set

Apexi SAFC $25 from craigslist in Raleigh

current total: 384.25
recoup total: 800

ok, so this car wasn't supposed to happen. I had thought about it, and decided against it. But when dad got back from his RV trip out west after $2017 with the AMC, he was bit hard by the challenge and wanted to build a 2018/2019 car with me. So I ventured my idea of a turbocharged NB Miata with a 3400 gm v6. He loved the idea, and layed $1000 on the table for me to work with. With my wife out of work right now, that's ALL we have to work with. Just cant financially do it right now otherwise.

'But I don't want to miss what may be my last opportunity to build a race car with my father. Hes in his 70s now, and I love spending time with him. We've built a few together over the years, and I always enjoy it. Its helped me to be the halfway decent father and husband that I am, as we always talk about a lot more than the metal in front of us. And hes a great guy to go on road trips and junkyard crawls with.

So I jumped at the opportunity. We negotiated some deals to cover our gas to Ohio and back to pick up Patrick 3400, I sourced a trans in greenville SC while delivering a door to Tuna55 (thanks again for picking it up!), and started some threads learning about how to do this.

See, ive never turbocharged anything before. Or stuffed an American engine in a Japanese car without a kit. (SBC RX7 don't count). Or made something OBD2 compliant. So, this should be suitably difficult to be entertaining.

The basic plan, as it sits, is thus:

1. 2018/2019 GRM challenge
2. 3400 v6 5 speed
3. 325+ hp at the wheels
4. 2400lbs with driver
5. OBD2 compliant
6. NC street legal and inspected
7. sticks like superglue between your fingers
8. reliable
9. blue

now that that is is out of the way, I guess I should get on with the story of the car.I bought this thing as a parts car. My DD 2000 got sideswiped by Mrs. Magoo, causing some nasty rear end noises. I also wasn't a fan of the peg leg. This car had a torsen, 3 core aluminum radiator, a 3 pack a day smoking habit, horrible plastidip, was half disassembled, and had a good top and supposedly rebuilt trans. So, for 800, I figured I couldn't loose.I swapped the torsen into my car, gave the stereo to my niece, and then sold the engine and top to a fellow GRM member in Texas via the $2017 challenge. Kept the 3 core radiator, stripped the interior, and prepared it to finish parting out. I had kicked the idea around of rebodying Pinata (my 2000 DD), but had decided to not do that, as it was too much like work. Then I had kicked around building the parts car as a challenge car, but decided that now was not the financial time in my life to build a sequel to the AMC. Then dad handed me money. so...well, what the hell. Why not?

Here's some pictures of how I bought the car, but not shown are the small appearance package, broken headlights, mangled right front fender, or front bumper cover. I hadn't planned a challenge build at first, so initial documentation is pretty pathetic.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/...306384b4_k.jpg
20170920_174446 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4335/...8973e4a7_k.jpg
20170920_174524 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/...869c688c_k.jpg
20170920_174501 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/...94083b3b_k.jpg
20171006_091405 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Stripping for parts:https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/...4b2c5a16_k.jpg
20170921_202511 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/...4eb746e7_k.jpg
20171008_100520 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4562/...19f2094e_k.jpg
20171121_154138 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

we moved it to dads place a few days ago. Much bigger shop, with a lift. And my dad. Him and I spent an hour today getting some more stripped out in preparation for depowering the rack and seam welding the chassis per flyin miatas recommendations on their page.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4569/...aab703f1_k.jpg
20171121_161932 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4532/...d4815d80_k.jpg
20171121_161928 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4571/...0e05e697_k.jpg
20171121_161917 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

new trans (shifter is in the trunk):https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4526/...a14cc15b_k.jpg
20171121_154214 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

pile of pull-a-part 3500 stuff:https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4531/...3c710e2f_h.jpg
20171121_125742 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4568/...7c2a984f_k.jpg
20171121_170707 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

until next time friends.

I was hooked from this moment on.

as far as i can find, theres only one guy that has put a 60 degree v6 in a miata. And his was a rwd 3.4 block in an na.

ive also found a guy that did this exact drivetrain in an rx7.

thats about it. If theres more out there, id love to find them. The mg forums have been the best areas for research thus far, as the 60 degree is a common mgb swap.

so, near as i can tell, im in uncharted waters.

question for you turbo guys: what size for this thing? I was thinking td04e or hx35, but thats purely based on cheap ebay turbo availability.

I'm listening.

going to pick up a nozzle and pills for a 125 wet shot. Figure it'll hold together long enough for a run to glory. Challenge is autocross, drag strip, and show and shine. All with the same car, back to back, all in at 2018 with an available recoup of 1008.

This is win

I want more. NOW.

i have googled my butt off for the last week, and am finally starting to get some good grips on the fabrication and execution of this. as well as the late 660 engines. turns out that the 3500 parts i picked up are from the first of the VVT engines, and therefore not able to be used. so ill need to return them for store credit when i get back into town. additionally, this will not be anywhere near as simple as i initially thought. theres going to be major crossmember surgery due to the oil pan being integral on the 3400 and having crossbolted mains. to properly swap the intake 180 degrees, all the rwd accessories need to be swapped in for the fwd stuff. however, ive found references that just the upper intake can be flipped and prevent half the issues, but no actual pictures or how tos. so no guarantee that its actually possible. there will need to be some flanges and wings and protrusions cut out in the engine bay for clearance. PPF will need dealt with due to the camaro trans not actually using the torque arm in the same manner, and concerns about stress on the t5 in that manner. cooling may be troublesome as well, though i found an LFX swap thread where they angled the radiator, stuffed a bigger radiator in, and vented the hood.





so, areas of research that need to continue at this time (y'all are welcome to play along at home and post links to informative stuff, or personal experience)

1. additional chassis bracing and rigidity mods on challenge budget

2. cooling upgrades, preferably bigger radiators and mounted in was to provide more space for intercooler and turbo

3. PPF/rear end shennannigans

4. crossmember mods for clearance and strength.



as a side note, this build thread is in real time. just like all the others ive done. (well, close to real time. usually a few days lag time between work/purchase and post, just due to life on lifes terms. )

if yall want, you can read through the 2017 build thread.... that should take long enough that well be back from ohio with a the engine for this year....
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../118042/page1/

Pat's crossmember/ trans mount is pretty good. Simple to fab too.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bd59e4bc7f.jpg

I drew up a plan for a simple ppf delete, but I can't find them at the moment.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a6cca5528.jpg

Similar to this, but with a steel sleeve that goes around three sides of the ppf stub.
The heim joint would get welded to the top of the sleeve and a spare ppf bolt would secure the sleeve to the ppf stub.

But wouldn't eliminating the ppf reduce chassis rigidity and induce more wheelhop?

I initially thought this too, we can again look at Pat as an example.
He has tons more power than you will be reaching, and he drag races heavily without a ppf. Same for ls swap guys.
Frame rails, a roll bar, and strategic bracing will help rigidity immensely.

Challenge budget so far:previous total: 384.25
recoup total: 800

this update:returned the 3500 intake and exhaust manifolds to pull-a-part: -106.75
bought correct intake manifold from non VVT 3500: 34.95
bought 3500 fuel rail and feed line: 12.95
bought big throttle body from an alero: 40.59

current challenge budget: 365.99
recoup total: 800

ok, so thanksgiving has came and went. With it was a LOT of research. See, research for me tends to be relaxing and enjoyable. I like burying myself down deep and incomprehensible rabbit holes to see where they lead.One of these holes was about the 3500 top swap. Turns out that there are 2 (at least) different versions of the 3500: VVT and non-VVT. The parts I had picked up were of the VVT variety, which will not work with the 3400 were using. So, I returned them and got the correct version.

While there, I started looking at throttle bodies. The 3500 was drive by wire in all versions. The 3400 never was. So, needed to come up with a cable driven throttle body. Also, the 3500 intake allows for a much bigger throttle body, which will probably be beneficial in this application. So, while wandering the rows looking for an 04-05 3500 Malibu, I started nabbing throttle bodies that were cable driven and used a visually identical IAC and TPS. I grabbed one from a 6.0 ls, and one that was in an Oldsmobile alero with a twin cam v style engine. Dunno what size....

clockwise: 3500, lsx, alerohttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4574/...1ef9e7e8_k.jpg
20171126_111453 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

alero throttle body was within 1/16 of the 3500 according to a tape measure, so I went with it. Its 1/16 bigger. Different mounting pattern, but nothing too bad to work with. Proof of intake pulling:https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4544/...5f415f54_k.jpg
20171126_111444 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/H1scdk20171126_111450 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21UeBy520171127_164002 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/DPe25u20171127_215620 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21S9dW720171127_215605 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

I didn't get the exhaust manifolds, as im fairly certain im making my own log manifolds from junk long-tube SBC headers and scrap 3/8 plate. Im also fairly certain that the fwd manifolds wouldn't come remotely close to fitting.

So, Monday while my wife and daughter were doing girl scout stuff, dad and I finished stripping the challenge car to a pretty bare tub. We pulled everything that didn't make it roll, steer, or stop.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4581/...be1aa193_k.jpg
20171127_184109 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/H1tBue20171127_200405 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21X7Utc20171127_204603 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/ZAD9ur20171127_204535 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/221EiCP20171128_195813 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/H1uTDB20171127_205456 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

yesterday, dad did a bit of pressure washing. Pictures it doesn't really look much different, and it didn't touch that freaking plastidip nightmare, but its altogether a much nicer thing to work on now.We also found some “minor” damage: steering rack broken, frame rail and floor pan damage...https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4539/...5b0918bc_z.jpg
20171128_195746 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21XPmcC20171128_194719 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21S7TY920171127_204541 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/H1ubmX20171127_204548 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

until next time

Challenge budget so far:
previous total: 365.99
recoup total: 800

this update:
deleted tax, environmental charges, and core charges, as those don't go in the budget
returned 3500 fuel rail, wont work
bought 2 inch intercooler piping kit, new in box: 60
bought 15 feet 3 inch exhaust, glasspack, boost gauge: 10
used headers of possibly Chevy descent: 10
x4 3 bolt 2.5 inch flanges for exhaust: 9
traded $25 boom tubes from last years car for FMIC, T04e eBay turbo, and blow off valve

current challenge budget: 445.90
recoup total: 800

so dad and I wanted to get to Ohio to pick up our engine from Patrick before it snowed. Friday morning, 5 am, we left his place pointed north. We had worked out a deal to pull a 454 and trans from a REALLY rusty Chevy 4500, load it up, and deliver it to another forum member in exchange for our gas. So we loaded up some tools (not enough), some thermal gear (also not enough), some grubby clothes, and hit the road. Smooth sailing to Ohio, and a WONDERFUL time with dad. Didn't take many pictures of the drive, but a nice time of year to do this.https://flic.kr/p/E18VD3https://flic.kr/p/E18VD3 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

we got to Patrick's about 3:45 or so, just as he had finished DRIVING the 454 truck onto the concrete. The three of us hit it hard, and we had the engine on the ground and the truck ready for the scrap run by 7:00 pm. Hell of a lot of fun, but after the sun went down it got cold in a hell of a hurry. Dad and I aren't used to that anymore, as we've been south of the mason dixon for 20 years. I was also reminded by how blessed we are as far as rust is concerned. I negotiated some El Camino parts, as well as the 3 inch exhaust from the 454 truck for the challenge car.
Saturday morning, dad and I followed Patrick over to his dads place where his dad had already gotten the 3500 hung on the bucket of his tractor with a rope and ready to load. His Dad also found some long tubes off of something that I bought purely to cut up for making headers for our car. We got everything loaded, bought some leftover turbo parts from Patrick after loading up everything, and headed to summit racing. It was only 30 minutes away.https://flic.kr/p/ZMDTdBhttps://flic.kr/p/ZMDTdB by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/E18XjChttps://flic.kr/p/E18XjC by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

summit racing is a very awesome and bad place at the same time. At the Tallmadge Ohio location, they had roughly 2 dozen racks of discounted and scratch and dent parts. No rhyme or reason to how its organized, and it was 25% off day. Challenge car wise, we scored 4 3 bolt exhaust flanges (think SBC header collector flanges) with a 2.5 hole for 9 bucks after discount. The plan is to use them on the header to crossover pipe junction. Speaking of exhaust, we also were able to retain the y pipe off the big block which uses 2.5 tubes into a very nice collector that turns into 3 inch. I think this should be perfect for the turbo flange/piping. We also got a turn down and glasspack in the deal. I apparently didn't take a picture of the boost gauge, and to be honest im not quite sure where it wound up....Pictures of exhaust and sacrificial headers:https://flic.kr/p/E18YrNhttps://flic.kr/p/E18YrN by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/228YhjPhttps://flic.kr/p/228YhjP by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

dad and I got home at 9pm Saturday night. 40 hours round trip, 1100 miles, and 168 in diesel. And a fantastic time with my dad. Time I wouldn't trade for the world.We got all the parts and stuff unloaded and organized Sunday after church. I took dads truck to deliver the big block, came back to his place, and got the 3400 mounted to the stand. Hit it, and dads truck, with superclean and a pressure washer to get the worst of the grime off both.https://flic.kr/p/226gKdohttps://flic.kr/p/226gKdo by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/228YkW8https://flic.kr/p/228YkW8 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/213GzxQhttps://flic.kr/p/213GzxQ by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

got done with that, jumped in the El Camino, threw the boom tubes from last years challenge car in the bed, and proceeded to turn them into boost goodies in a trade in Winston Salem.https://flic.kr/p/228Yhdghttps://flic.kr/p/228Yhdg by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

and the received boost goodies:new in box piping kit (from Patrick)https://flic.kr/p/CyiNurhttps://flic.kr/p/CyiNur by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/22cR8uphttps://flic.kr/p/22cR8up by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

FMIC:https://flic.kr/p/213GrhShttps://flic.kr/p/213GrhS by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/227uX9Lhttps://flic.kr/p/227uX9L by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

Blow off valve (I think)https://flic.kr/p/228YdDHhttps://flic.kr/p/228YdDH by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

the turbo:https://flic.kr/p/ZMDSWphttps://flic.kr/p/ZMDSWp by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/226gA9bhttps://flic.kr/p/226gA9b by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/E18Vydhttps://flic.kr/p/E18Vyd by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr


up next is figuring out just what I have as far as the turbo goes. In theory, its what it says it is. But, I want to verify that it will work well enough for what I want before I go to the trouble of installing it. It is physically a lot smaller than I thought it would be, but the price was right. For you turbo guys: how do I determine if its what I need/want? Is there a way to measure things to verify what it is/size/ability to work with this application? I was originally hunting an hx35, but this deal seemed too good to turn down. Intercooler alone was worth 25 bucks. Also, what exactly is the silver thing? I was told its a blow off valve, but it looks more like a blower bypass valve than anything else. This is the first time I have ever even held a turbo in my hands, so please forgive the ignorance.

Challenge budget so far:current challenge budget: 445.90 recoup total: 800what my weekend looked like (in technicolor): Friday night:stripped down the 3400 to a longblock, and investigated ways to execute the intake flip.https://flic.kr/p/21fjM5jhttps://flic.kr/p/21fjM5j by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/22hoGushttps://flic.kr/p/22hoGus by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/22kAgUchttps://flic.kr/p/22kAgUc by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrsaturday we put the lower intake back on in factory location to block the engine off from shit falling it in. bolted a chunk of 2x4 to simulate a thermostat housing, and tried to make it fit.https://flic.kr/p/21fk1Pohttps://flic.kr/p/21fk1Po by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhad to pull the one lift point off, and decided to mount the trans at the same time.https://flic.kr/p/HoTGRBhttps://flic.kr/p/HoTGRB by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrslid it all in as a package to see what we had. Pics of where it stopped moving down and back. We called it quits to think.https://flic.kr/p/22kAsMehttps://flic.kr/p/22kAsMe by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21fki1whttps://flic.kr/p/21fki1w by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/HoTWi6https://flic.kr/p/HoTWi6 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/22kABMihttps://flic.kr/p/22kABMi by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21fknH7https://flic.kr/p/21fknH7 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrafter playing around with the engine, trans, tape measure, chinks of metal and wood, etc for almost all day. i decided to take the approach mentioned earlier over on the main GRM forum of going in from the bottom. there's just not enough space or clearance to go in from the top due to protrusions and obstructions. but in from the bottom gets the engine EXACTLY where i wanted it relative to the crossmember, and i think there's enough real estate that everything will fit with very minimal firewall surgery. also, building the motor mounts outside of the car should make things far easier for me. more real estate with better access to see all sides. much simpler than the AMC when i built those mounts. heres where i stopped for today (mostly. i cleaned up and put things away, as tonight is family movie night.) first up, step one:https://flic.kr/p/22j4rHjhttps://flic.kr/p/22j4rHj by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr
step two is sit everything where they are happy being around each other with no cutting or modifications. the flat flange is kissing the oil pan, theres a threaded boss kissing the crossmember, and a power steering hardline is hitting the pan on the drivers side. additionally, with notching the horizontal flange, grinding the boss off the oil pan, and depowering the rack, i should be able to get the engine an inch more forward of the firewall, as well as about 1/2 inch lower. this will make the pan the lowest spot of the drivetrain bu about 1/4 inch or so. but will give me more clearance at the firewall, bellhousing, etc. all a win, assuming i build a bash plate for the pan. here's a picture dump. next up is to figure out what design of engine mounts to use. im seriously thinking about heim joints for adjustability. https://flic.kr/p/22niqC6https://flic.kr/p/22niqC6 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21h2Nahhttps://flic.kr/p/21h2Nah by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/22niryKhttps://flic.kr/p/22niryK by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21h2MDNhttps://flic.kr/p/21h2MDN by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/HqA33Mhttps://flic.kr/p/HqA33M by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

Challenge budget so far:

previous challenge budget: 445.90

recoup total: 800
new money: 75 for 15x6 stock nb wheels
37.72 gasket kit for 3400 from ebay
200 for ½ spec miata cage (main hoop, rear downtubes)
traded stock trans for replacement steering rack cause ours is busted
found some poly bushings and sleeves I a ziplock baggie in the bottom of my gauge box. No idea what they are from, or where I got them. But they fit inside some scraps of roll cage tubing. 2.00
bought a new spool of welding wire: 20 new total: 780.62

ok, when we left off, I had dropped out the crossmember for making the motor fit. I thought I had it sorted out via pictures, so I set the crossmember up on the sawhorses, and made engine mounts. While going through my quickly expanding gauge collection, I found a ziplock baggie of miscellaneous poly bushings. Couple sway bar end links, some mount bushings, bumpstops, and I think 4 control arm bushings. Couldn't tell you what this stuff is from, as I haven't been to the bottom of that box in years. Leftovers from something. But the “control arm bushings” fit inside the scraps from last years roll cage build. So im using them.https://flic.kr/p/D2tQcThttps://flic.kr/p/D2tQcT by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

went ahead and made some 1/8 plate that mount to threaded bosses in the block, and then some tabs to weld to the crossmember.https://flic.kr/p/22EGx1thttps://flic.kr/p/22EGx1t by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

to get the engine where I thought it needed to be, I notched the crossmember by an inch or so, and spaced things with various nuts/bolts/chunks of wood.https://flic.kr/p/22C2ZXWhttps://flic.kr/p/22C2ZXW by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/HHZ8Lnhttps://flic.kr/p/HHZ8Ln by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

I then tacked the tabs, the tube, and the plates all together. Didn't fully weld because I wanted to confirm clearance.https://flic.kr/p/ExqtWShttps://flic.kr/p/ExqtWS by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/D2ucExhttps://flic.kr/p/D2ucEx by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

while ive been obsessing about drive-train placement, crossmemeber strength, etc, dads been seam welding per the flyin miata recommendations. Hes having a good time, and this is his first time doing sheetmetal with a MIG. Hes now got almost all of it done and ready to go outside for grinding down, seam sealer, and paint.https://flic.kr/p/D2tJAxhttps://flic.kr/p/D2tJAx by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/Exq8n5https://flic.kr/p/Exq8n5 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21A9T6Nhttps://flic.kr/p/21A9T6N by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

we then jockeyed things around, put the engine and trans on a sheet of plywood on 6x6 chunks on refrigerator dollies. We wrapped a tow strap around the front of the car and hooked to the cherry picker, and went to see how it worked.https://flic.kr/p/ExqAV1https://flic.kr/p/ExqAV1 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

it did not go as planned. We fouled the ears on the firewall, and the engine was about 6 inches behind the plane of the firewall. No bueno. So we pulled it all back apart, and used the portaband to chop the ears out of the engine bay, and knocked the motor mounts I spent all day building apart. When I get back from the in-laws this weekend, were going to try test fitting again. Dads also starting in on the 2x2 framerail reinforcements, as well as the prep for the ½ cage.

I see half of the pictures in post 12, and then no pictures past that. Anyone else having the same issue??

Yep, same here. I was wondering if it was just me or not too lol.

Thats odd. Disappeared for me as well.

ill see what i can do later today when im on a computer instead of the phone.

but may be a minute. Changing struts on the daily and seeing if we can make the engine fit on this today

Cool build, I also can’t see the pictures.

My Lemons team just killed a 3800 in 25 laps a few weeks ago, oil starvation. The other 3800 that was on the track that day died 10 laps later. If I were you, I’d baffle the oil pan while the motor is out. I’ve also heard it’s good to overfill the oil by about a quart.

I changed privacy settings on Flickr. I can see them all now. Can y'all?

will definitely keep baffling in mind. I don't know if theres any in the 3400 pan or not from the factory.

Pics work, for me at-least.
i know you mentioned those motor mounts aren't fully welded but some gussets in that area probably wouldn't hurt.

i wasnt happy with them before they failed to fit. Just too spindly. So gussets and a redesign will happen.

everyone else able to see pictures now?

Pics are showing fine for me

Awesome. Now we know the Flickr secret.

I love everything about this build. I look forward to following along. Merry Christmas!

thanks! Merry Christmas to y'all as well!

hoping to find a machine shop open tomorrow that can do a quick hot tank of the oil pan for me. We decided to modify it to make things fit better, and i cant get it clean enough to even think about welding. 4 hours so far, and nowhere close. Its soaking in hot water and superclean/dawn overnight in one last attempt.

expect tig welding porn by the end of the week.

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 780.62 recoup total: 800new money: 20 feet 1x1x1/8 angle iron: 11.22 20 feet 1x1x1/8 square tube: 30.15 10 feet 2x2x1/8 square tube: 25.29 10lbs 1/8 plate steel: 10.00 modify oil pan: 8 according to stevejb weld: 2.50 (6.99 pack, used about 1/2) new total: 868.78to start with, I figure well talk about parts acquisition.I finally got stuff picked up and pictures taken of parts that I talked about, but didnt document proof of.Nitrous kit from the trailer park yard sale:https://flic.kr/p/22hoECwhttps://flic.kr/p/22hoECw by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrspec miata cage (still have to grab the roughly 20 feet of tubing he has but couldnt find when I was there)https://flic.kr/p/ES3BAuhttps://flic.kr/p/ES3BAu by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr steel order and steering rackhttps://flic.kr/p/22Y2f8Fhttps://flic.kr/p/22Y2f8F by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/J2nM54https://flic.kr/p/J2nM54 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrslicks (drove 150 miles like this. Stampie drive far greater. Hes cooler than me) hoosier is my co-pilothttps://flic.kr/p/22ZBTFThttps://flic.kr/p/22ZBTFT by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/22ZBUmRhttps://flic.kr/p/22ZBUmR by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr wheels:https://flic.kr/p/Dm7fQRhttps://flic.kr/p/Dm7fQR by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr ok. now that thats out of the way....I had decided when we left off that either the crossmember needed to be radically restructured, or the oil pan. We were about 2 inches shy of where we needed to be. The decision came down to notching the pan AND the crossmember. Pan first.Stafford1500 (steve from last years challenge car insanity) offered to cut and weld it if I got it clean enough and brought it to him. So we pulled the pan off, and after about 6 freaking hours of cleaning with screwdrivers, wire brushes, superclean, overn cleaner, and a pressure washer, it was clean enough for me to work with. Steve said that it was far cleaner than it needed to be for what we did.https://flic.kr/p/22Vobxbhttps://flic.kr/p/22Vobxb by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21CtbV8https://flic.kr/p/21CtbV8 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on FlickrAnyway, we marked out a 3 inch notch with a sharpie, and mounted it to steves surface plate. He proceeded to cut the majority of it with a handheld circular saw. With a wood blade. At face level. BALLS.https://flic.kr/p/21Tuw6Ehttps://flic.kr/p/21Tuw6E by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrwe dressed the edges with a flap wheel, emeroy paper, etc. while I was doing that, steve cut a chunk of aluminum plate from a sheet that he had standing in the corner of the shop, after making a good cardboard template. Steve has so many awesome tools at his disposal. And such neat projects of his own. Makes this project look like a carburetor rebuild.https://flic.kr/p/EQtgGyhttps://flic.kr/p/EQtgGy by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrafter getting the plate cut and fitted, we ratchet strapped it down and steve welded it up. (I say that like its easy. TIG is freaking black magic. Two hands, a foot, and talent all at the same time. I can barely chew and breath at the same 10 minute span.https://flic.kr/p/22Vqpp9https://flic.kr/p/22Vqpp9 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/EQufDQhttps://flic.kr/p/EQufDQ by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrwhen we got all finished and unbolted from the table, we found that there was very minimal warping. Like .002 corner to corner on the rails. Close enough!https://flic.kr/p/Dm4P94https://flic.kr/p/Dm4P94 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on FlickrTook it home, and decided that since im a belt AND suspenders guy, it “caulk” the inside of the pan with jb weld reduce the chance of leakege. Stopped by oriellys and grabbed 2 packs of the good stuff.https://flic.kr/p/21Cw3Dxhttps://flic.kr/p/21Cw3Dx by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrtook it over to dads place, where he promptly took over. He custom cut a few popsicle sticks, and caulked every seam in the pan with ½ of one pack of jb weld.https://flic.kr/p/21F1Z58https://flic.kr/p/21F1Z58 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrthat brings us up to today. After the weld fully cured, we bolted the pan back to the engine. It cleared the stock oil pump pickup, and all the holes still lined up. Definitely successful....I also noticed that this engine has a factory windage tray. Which also cleared! Score on both counts!I did finally take a picture of how much I notched the crossmember. Theres a little clearance on the flange on the drivers side to do, but thats purely for piece of mind. Ive got about ¼ at the tightest spot. We have also nipped the edges of the wings like the v8 guys do. Only the drivers side turned out to be necessary. Passengers I just made extra work.https://flic.kr/p/J4Sz6Khttps://flic.kr/p/J4Sz6K by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/231ArKRhttps://flic.kr/p/231ArKR by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrdad and I slipped everything into place. And stared. And readjusted. And stared. And playind with angles. Snad stared. Eventually we decided we were happy with the compromises we were making, and held the drivetrain in place with a jack and chinks of wood. Then got to making mounts.https://flic.kr/p/J5fPiDhttps://flic.kr/p/J5fPiD by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/22YfMxjhttps://flic.kr/p/22YfMxj by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrend of the dar pictures. Feels like a huge milestone. The intake MAY clear the hood, but no promises. Fairly good exhaust clearance, lower intake in factory orientation with the thermostat hosing above the bellhousing. Mocked up with a block of wood ¼ thicker than the housing to ensure clearance. Passengers side head exhaust port is in front of axle centerline, drivers side is at. It just wasnt worth the extra effort and complication to go slightly firther back. Chifter is at the extreme forward edge of the factory shifter hole, so we will have to monkey with some doglegs and such.https://flic.kr/p/21WwnGohttps://flic.kr/p/21WwnGo by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/J5mgurhttps://flic.kr/p/J5mgur by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/ETieQjhttps://flic.kr/p/ETieQj by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/EToHoAhttps://flic.kr/p/EToHoA by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/J5mfeahttps://flic.kr/p/J5mfea by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/21Wehobhttps://flic.kr/p/21Wehob by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrup nest is the 2x2 framerails, and butterfly brace/trans mount. Then exhaust.

spent part of the day today doing chassis stuff.


started my butterfly brace/trans mount. the long side pieces will be welded to the 2x2 rails that have yet to be put on. the bolts will all be welded into place, thereby creating studs. theres also another 1x1 tube that i need no fab in before all the welding and such happens. will weigh about 10-15 lbs when done, which is far heavier than id like. but it'll be bombproof. i think. suggestions/feedback on this thing? remember, im making it all up as i go along, and im sure no engineer.

https://flic.kr/p/21XPNzEhttps://flic.kr/p/21XPNzE by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/J6Rf1Fhttps://flic.kr/p/J6Rf1F by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/J6X1fnhttps://flic.kr/p/J6X1fn by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr




also, while i was working, i managed to knock over my entire pile of crap onto mu right foot. 3/8 plate, 1x1 tube. 1x1 angle, and a roll cage. 6 hours later my damn foot still hurts. so, to solve the problem, i cleaned the shop. part of this was finding a home for the roll bar segment. ZIP TIES!!!

https://flic.kr/p/233Gjnkhttps://flic.kr/p/233Gjnk by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/EV33QShttps://flic.kr/p/EV33QS by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

will need to trim some flanges on the seat belt towers for it to sit where i want it. then, build my floor plates, rear downtubes, etc. but i LIKE this design. Its a whole lot better than the hard dog ace in my daily. however, i purchased the ace as it was the furthest from my head i could get and still have it pass the broomstick test with my unhelmeted noggin. the ace is in a daily. this is a race car that'll be driven to events. not to work....

lastly, started looking at hood clearance/upper intake mounting. to put the throttle body forward will require me cutting the timing cover for clearance, which wont leave me a place to mount an idler for the belt, or space it up 3/4 of an inch. this would make the intake poke through the hood considerably, and i think the throttle body as well. having the plenum through the hood could be visually awesome. throttle body, not so much. leaving it in the factory orientation may work, but that will require some more mockup and staring. the intake tube would be routed through the cowl where the wiper linkage lives, then out to the front of the car. or something. dunno yet. but im sure it will stick up above the hood now....

https://flic.kr/p/2314TDhhttps://flic.kr/p/2314TDh by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/2314Uhmhttps://flic.kr/p/2314Uhm by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

The last update for a minute (or at least until next weekend or so)finished up welding the butterfly brace today. The x looks crooked in pictures for some reason, but its not in reality. Also, my welds are ugly but have good penetration. That's why grinders and flap wheels exist.https://flic.kr/p/EWXFGqhttps://flic.kr/p/EWXFGq by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/232Ycbmhttps://flic.kr/p/232Ycbm by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/DqYvZehttps://flic.kr/p/DqYvZe by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrdad and I also spent some time grinding down the frame rails, and then cutting them out. Hes going to start fitting the 2x2 box while im at work this week. I was able to get a picture of us together while we were drilling holes for plug welds, which makes me happy. Please excuse my hair. Im just happy to still have it. (stocking cap while I was outside with a flap wheel in 10 degree weather)https://flic.kr/p/EWZXs9https://flic.kr/p/EWZXs9 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/2213Yq3https://flic.kr/p/2213Yq3 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrhttps://flic.kr/p/EX1rjbhttps://flic.kr/p/EX1rjb by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickrand the end result of framerail murder.https://flic.kr/p/21KbPcDhttps://flic.kr/p/21KbPcD by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150940429@N02/, on Flickr

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 868.78 recoup total: 800new money:added core charges back in per the new challenge rulesgiven 4 unknown rate red coilover springspurchased coilover sleeve kit for honda civic: 43.99 sold 2 red and 2 civic springs: 22 purchased 4 used bilstein: 40purchased entire drivers rear suspension 40 purchased passengers fender: 40 purchased inner fenders: 20 purchased 3/16 plate: 10.95 255lph fuel pump from ebay 13.99 2x2 angle 6 feet 5 new total: 1135.71

recoup: 822to start with, I figure well talk about parts acquisition.Was told by the spec miata shop that they were unable to locate the stick of cage tubing that I got with my rollbar. He told me to buy a stick and he would reimburse me, which he did. So I went to stock car steel over in moresville and picked that up, as well as some 3/16 plate, as that is the SCCA requirement for a bolt in roll bar. Also got a sheet of plastic for another project while I was there. No picture, because it looks like a piece of steel plate.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4670/...2fe04641_k.jpg
20180109_182527 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrgot the spec miata slicks mounted up and balanced on the NB 15s so they'd take up less room. 15X6 wheels, and yes, the slicks are somewhat pinched. Unless someone wants to trade 15x8/9/10 for stock wheels, this will have to do. Toby at freemans tire charged me 40 bucks. 10 bucks each is a pretty good deal.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4668/...3ba126ec_k.jpg
20180114_114852 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4658/...2a62b5dd_k.jpg
20180109_082520 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4717/...1e847c2c_k.jpg
20180109_082530 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrresponded to a facebook marketplace ad for miata parts, asking about struts. I had seen what looked like konis in a picture of the parts stash. After coordinating schedules, dad and I drove to outside of greenville, SC and met a guy named Alex, who parts out miatas for a good portion of his living. Name of the business is SNS Mazda parts. We spent some money.....20 struts at 10 ea, full drivers side rear suspension to replace our bent stuff, front fender, and inner fenders. Still need to source and NB subframe to replace that bent part. In the struts were a full set of SGX with a spare front and rear, 2 full sets of tokiko Hps, b&g lowering springs for an NA, a full set of speck miata bilstiens, and a bunch of NA tophats. Need to go through them all, then ill start selling off spare crap. A set of the tokikos and stock NA springs may go on my daily NB with NB tophats, as that should lower it 1.5 all the way around.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4612/...33870481_k.jpg
20180113_101439 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4708/...795e18c6_k.jpg
20180113_123917 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4603/...123914f3_k.jpg
20180113_154457 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrno pictures of coilover stuff or fuel pump as its still in shipping. Next time...lastly, an example of how the challenge makes a man resourceful. Were always looking for materials and supplies. I went to an early dinner with brother Dustin and Dallas last night. On the way to dinner, we had to drop off a redbox movie at Walgreen. Coming through their parking lot, we noticed an overflowing dumpster out back where the store is being renovated. A quick peak inside resulted in a “hold my beer and watch this!” moment.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4741/...c659b2d5_b.jpg
Walgreens dumpster by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI dug out some quite heavy gauge blue tube and flat stock, 3 seriously heavy duty rolling platforms, and some store fixtures with 1/8 wall 1x1 tubing on ¼ plate bases. All most of the way to the bottom of the dumpster. The manager was cool with it, and we did ask. I ain't going back to jail for free steel.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4654/...5d33c3c9_k.jpg
20180113_182313 by Michael Crawford, on Flickranyway, on to the car.Dad worked on getting the 2x2 subframe connectors welded in, and then ground down in preparation of mounting the butterfly brace.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4607/...ec39a0a4_k.jpg
20180113_161248 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4661/...24d946b5_k.jpg
20180113_161109 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4592/...8be2701e_k.jpg
20180103_183357 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/...0095216c_k.jpg
20180113_161244 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrsomething I did NOT anticipate was the fact that 2x2 is actually narrower than what mazda used, as mazdas rails were not actually square. Which meant that my butterfly brace no longer fit. By about an inch. And not enough room on the 1x1 angle to re-drill the holes. Instead of scrapping the whole thing and starting over, I picked up some 2x2 x3/16 angle, lopped an inch off the vertical side and cut it to length. I still need to get them fitted, drilled, and studded, but were close. With plenty pf extra meat left over.I also used some of the 1x1 tube and leftover angle to make frog arms. These are ugly in pictures and person, but thankfully will be hidden by fenders. Strong though, and I feel a benefit in addition to the seam welding and subframe connectors. Ive never had a car that I felt was too stiff, and the AMC is my benchmark for stiff enough.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4729/...4a213465_k.jpg
20180106_121253 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4723/...bdfe4150_k.jpg
20180107_163942 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrmade an extra pair for the daily while I was at ithttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4769/...e0abbf21_k.jpg
20180106_181351 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI then moved on to fitting the roll bar and making the rest of it. Because, really, its cool. It doesn't get us any closer to a running, testable car, but it makes me feel good. So ive got that going for me.First up was making the bar fit exactly where I wanted it. That required some surgery to the drivers side seatbelt tower. The cutting is done, and ill re-weld it shortly, and then box in the rest to strengthen it back up, but the bar is now perfectly situated. I then obsessed mightily over how to do feet and make it a bolt in. the thing I don't like about my hard dog is how you need 2 people and 7 hands to get the reinforcing plates, nuts, bolts, and bar all assembled. Its a pain in the ass. So my idea is to weld nuts to the backer plates, and pop rivet the plates to the floor pans for location purposes. Genius!Still have to make the plates and feet though. So I went to google, where every idea someone has ever had has a picture taken of it. I found my inspiration in an article of a blackbird fabworx gt3 install. Pretty much did what I thought I wanted to do, but it was good to see confirmation that I was on the right path.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4740/...e92c8e0b_k.jpg
20180113_161114 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4698/...7497cc50_k.jpg
20180112_182238 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Took my portaband to the 3/16 plate, and after a significant amount of cutting, grinding, and shaping, had the different pieces I wanted. I measured for my holes, and too them home with me for drilling.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4768/...702edbad_k.jpg
20180114_135127 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr







Pictures of my shop and drilling setup:




https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4655/...86927632_k.jpg
20180114_114022 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4675/...b542594d_k.jpg
20180114_114053 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr




then took it all over to dads this morning and did some welding and final fitting.

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20180114_155518 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr




should tack the hoop to the new plates tomorrow, and finish the backing plates.




While ive been doing that, dads been working on finishing seam welding. We have gone much, much further than flyin miata recommends, and much much further than we planned on. Seam welding is addictive, as I learned on the AMC. Dads learning it on a mazda. Its hard to know when to stop, to be honest.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4662/...fd5bc15e_k.jpg
20180114_162144 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr




our goal for tomorrow is finish the main hoop feet/attach the hoop to new feet, finish the butterfly brace, make a trans mount, and maybe finish the welding of the 2x2 subframe connectors.




So you guys are getting two updates in one. For whatever reason, my computer and the forum software got in a fight yesterday and it wouldn't let me post.




Today, dad and I made HUGE progress.




First things first, we finished up the main hoop feet. I offset the backing plates so as to minimize any shearing action. I also rounded all edges and corners just like I did up top. Just makes things much nicer whenever you don't touch sharp edges when working on something. The pop rivets and captured nuts idea worked perfectly. I even tested it multiple times throughout the day, just because I could. However, the bolt on the bottom of the factory seatbelt reel that I incorporated into the design cannot be removed with the cage welded to the feet due to the spacing of the main hoop legs. A capscrew MAY fit, but we didn't have one in the right thread pitch. So, a couple are on order from mcmaster carr.

We knocked the feet that were tacked to the cage off, set the cage in place on the new feet, and tacked them in heavily. I also got started on the tabs that will connect the cage to the upper bolts on the seat belt towers where the factory guides went. But don't have any pictures, and they just look like rectangular pieces of metal at this point. With a pilot hole.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4614/...14f40045_k.jpg
20180115_111121 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

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20180115_115450 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr




I then threw a factory NA top frame on it that oi got for free at the challenge this year. I wanted to see if it would clear a factory top. The answer is yes it will, but not enough clearance to operate the top. So I guess ill have to make a hardtop at some point. Yay.




https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4714/...66e719a5_k.jpg
20180115_115450 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4746/...8958036f_k.jpg
20180115_104927 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr




we also got the butterfly brace welded in. finally!

Welded some nuts to the backside, drilled a bunch of holes, put it into place, and plug welded the crap out of it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4761/...98cce564_k.jpg
20180115_150337 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

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20180115_142457 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4707/...3e29cc09_k.jpg
20180115_161313 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr




and dads about 60% of the way done with seam welding. Passengers side from the firewall back is finished. Couple braces to stitch on the firewall yet, and a little on the drivers side to go. Well finish the engine bay when we yank the engine back out.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4614/...bbe40ff0_k.jpg
20180115_165154 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

You are welding in rear down bars aren't you? That HAS to happen or you've made a really elaborate style bar that will kill you. Also you need to check with the event organizers to see if your double foot mounts are ok, most racing bodies only allow one tube connection at the floor. I think it was mentioned earlier but your main diagonal is supposed to be a single continuous piece, and the extra reinforcing tubes aren't doing anything but adding weight. You might be able to sneak that through.

Just hate for you to put all this work into it and then get turned away at tech.

i spoke with scca about the roll bar questions. Mr gill at the head office confirmed that the uninterrupted diagonal can be from the main hoop behind the driver to the bottom of the rear leg on the passengers side, and that it fulfills the requirements for solo and hpde. The inner legs actually count as "points" for classing purposes, so with just the existing main hoop, un-made rear legs, i will technically have 8 points. However, this thing is going to be stuck in xp due to seam welding and the v6, so points of attachment are kinda a moot point.

nhra regs are vastly different than scca, however the challenge supreme court has approved this design for 13.50 or slower with the addition of door bars. If i get faster than that, I'll need to completely start over, and at that point will be building a proper welded in cage that meets nhra 10.99 and wheel to wheel specs like we did with the amc.

Good deal, diagonal in the rear down tube plane will work.

I don't want to poo poo your chassis stiffening efforts as it will result in a solid feeling car, but don't count on this adding any appreciable performance and the added weight is a concern. You need to focus on keeping the tires at the proper angle to the road and getting the suspension stiffened up and properly damped to maximize turning ability. Think of all the effort you went through to stop 1/4" of chassis flex when soft springs will flop around several inches.

Wont disagree with you. The weight vs stiffening ratio is not biased in my favor here, especially now that i need to make door bars. The door bars negate the framerail and butterfly brace, making them added mass.

spring and shock package is planned for 700/400 on hard s bilsteiens. 12.5 all the way around. Not optimal, but ill have under $100 in tbe setup. Id really like fatter sway bars, but were running out of budget pretty quick.

and this car is being done in stages. Stage 1 is pretty basic. Stock v6 with ported and polished parts, cai, and headers. I want to make sure its all doing what i want it to before adding even more variables. I also want to get some significant testing time in before the challenge. Thats what killed us last year. More testing would have revealed the issues that kept us out of the top 5.

You're on the right track with that spring and shock combo, I suggest going with 800/450 rates with a stock front bar, it was very neutral on both my NA and NB cars and you have the option of hooking up the rear bar to loosen it for auto x work. I personally felt the hard S shocks handled the rates OK, certainly wasn't a hot mess.

Image hosting is such a pain these days.

Great looking build, keep us updated.

maybe stop hosting pictures.

making hand built headers from plate steel and cut up used headers is a giant pain in the ass.

also, since work is cancelled due to snow (ill take it! hate the snow. spent 17 years in northeast pa, but like free paid time off whenever I can get it) I'm staying home with the girls and working on the pro-touring cars until the snow clears. just done want tpo get the Subaru out and deal with stupid southerners that think because they have 4wd they can stop and steer in the snow.....

is there any interest here in stuff other than miata?

additionally, I'm starting to look into lightening. since I'm adding weight with the v6, cage, and chassis bracing, id like to zero it out from other places if possible. open to suggestions of things, particularly to see what you guys come up with. yall have some wild builds here that do things completely differently than the muscle car stuff I normally play with. so, fire away! remember, after the challenge, this will get plated and driven to and from events. so impact and safety are paramount.

There's a whole thread in the racing section that lists out where there is weight to be lost. Cliff notes are, interior, tiny battery and gutting anything metal that isn't needed. It's my opinion, which others may challenge, that all the bumper substructure is for 5mph impact regulations and simply isn't needed on a car that is expendable (race car). Yeah if you have a minor fender bender you'll probably bend a frame horn and total the car......but then again a swift kick will total most Miata's since they aren't worth much. If you do door bars with your cage there is a lot of weight to be lost in the doors.

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1135.71

recoup: 822ok, some parts came in.amazon coilover kit with unknown rate springs:https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4655/...7b52fe4e_k.jpg
20180117_153520 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI tried the measuring process to determine what spring rates. Seems like 450/250 is what they are, near as I can tell. No way to know for certain with the equipment I have on hand though.Fuel pump came in as well. This is the 14 dollar ebay special that's supposedly 255lph. Hopefully it is, but it will work. I went ahead and installed it, as well as deleted the in tank fuel pressure regulator. I unfortunately didn't label the outlet/return on the top of the tank, so if someone knows which is which, id greatly appreciate it. I already put it all back together to close up the fuel tank, which brings me to...https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4648/...346e6282_k.jpg
20180120_095954 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4722/...b5de01f8_k.jpg
20180120_100003 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4629/...b0cdc014_k.jpg
20180120_102313 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrspent all day Saturday (well 4-5 hours) working on cage tubes. Got the rear feet made, downtubes, and uninterrupted diagonal from the drivers side main hoop to passengers floor. I was planning to do a full X, but im concerned about the weight im adding. Additionally, with the door bars, im not sure ill have enough tube left from what I got with the purchase. The setup is not fully welded yet, and there's some news on that. Dad has a friend from church that is a professional welder in a pipe facility. He had come over when we were fighting with the welder to give us some help. He offered to weld up the cage when we got that far. So, hes supposed to stop by a few nights after work in the next couple of weeks and do the welding for us. Which means that getting it finished takes highest priority. I also wanted to make sure that I liked how its laying out. I would have loved to make the rear legs extend further, but with it being a bolt in I could find no good way of doing it where the feet would be a solid dual plated connection. So I essentially copied my hard dog instead.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4710/...670c130b_k.jpg
20180120_134620 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4752/...e5a6e0d3_k.jpg
20180121_101930 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4676/...e2f5caa0_k.jpg
20180120_134634 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrtoday I took the drivers seat, dash, my helmet, etc with me to family lunch. One of the next big hurdles is headers, and the other is door bars. Ill explain headers in a minute. For doorbars, NHRA requires the bar to pass between your shoulder and elbow. So I took the seat and helmet with me so I could find my driving position. This unfortunately brought to light a few things I had suspected, but was conveniently ignoring.

1. im fat.
   
2. My helmet sticks about 3 inches above the windshield/rollbar
3. the harness bar isn't in the right location, as its too low.

Here's pictures showing what im talking about:https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4657/...1a66b0e7_k.jpg
20180121_133607_001 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4674/...6def99a9_k.jpg
20180121_133615 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrim pretty sure that this is greater than a foamectomy can solve. Am I right? Am I relegated to finding an aluminum seat and mounting it directly to the floor? I'm not opposed to that in principle, but would much rather keep the stock seat if at all possible for budget reasons.The reason I put the dash in is that I also need to get headers built. Im planning an entire day for each header, being focused and zen like on one at a time. Not working on anything but the header that day. To do this properly, you need as much shit in the way as possible. Like everything that the headers need to clear. In this case, all that is located on the drivers side: steering shaft, oil filter, starter, motor mount, alternator, water pump, lower radiator hose. The passengers side is wide open, which is good for when I get boosted. (for those that have forgotten, this is a multi stage build. NA. NA N02, FI N02). The drivers side is going to be a cast iron bitch regardless of which end of the engine I choose to exit from.Anyway, started by bolting in a starter. I didn't realize how small this thing was until today, and just how much room it DOESN'T occupy.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4628/...af472624_k.jpg
20180121_150125 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4656/...46c7533d_k.jpg
20180121_150448 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI then went on to accessories. Another thing ive been avoiding due to the mental gymnastics required for a serpentine system. I did hear a good tidbit about designing these though. If the pulley is smooth, and it drives an accessory, it HAS to run on the backside of the belt to keep it rotation correct. Same with grooves. Which means the idler pulleys are fair game to monkey with, but water pump and alternator are not. I've also been led to believe that the more belt wrap you can get on an accessory, the better it will perform. So, armed with that staggering amount of knowledge, all the idlers and tensions that came with the engine, an alternator, some zip ties, and some painters tape, I went to work. After staring at it and getting more and more turned around, I decided that id try the factory brackets and see what that got me, in addition to all the factory accessories. It at least let me know where things were put by GM, and how the belt went on. I then ditched the AC compressor and PS pump again, as I have no intention of using them. They are now in the scrap pile. Permanently. I relocated the alternator to where the ac compressor lived previously and zip tied it into place. Put the tensioner in the alternate location on the timing cover, and started creating a belt with the blue painters tape. This is where we wound up:https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4650/...edda4cc5_k.jpg
20180121_111422 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrthe uppermost idler will need to be converted to grooved, and have a mount made. The alternator will fit properly with a fully depowered rack using some spacers and a custom bracket. I will need to source a tensioner that tensions in the opposite direction and is clocked differently. And possibly add an idler in the center of the really long belt run to keep it from flapping like a pissed off peacock. But, its entirely doable, and relatively simple compared to a couple of others ive built.While I was up there, I needed to also figure out the clearance to the radiator and how the lower hose needed to run. Oddly enough, after cutting about 2 inches from one end, and 4 from the other, the factory 99 radiator hose fit perfectly. It also appears that the 2003 escalade hose that guys are running on stock engine coolant reroutes will work perfectly for my back of the engine thermostat. I need to get that sorted, by the way. But it does fit!https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4711/...469a7a82_k.jpg
20180121_151048 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrlast thing needed to do before building headers was finally make the transmission mount instead of the trains being ziptied to a stick over the shifter hole. Which meant I finally needed to cut the tunnel for clearance.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/...49aa93d1_k.jpg
20180121_150509 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI then went ahead and made a mount from scraps in the five gallon bucket of fab metal. Piece of 3/4x3/4 square, chunk of 2x2 angle, and a wedge shaped piece from mitering the rear downtubes yesterday for a gusset. And a nut for the magic bolt bin. And the trans is firmly mounted!https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4660/...ec6ddce6_k.jpg
20180121_144402 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrwhile I was under there I finished welding in the butterfly brace rails.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4715/...68c1b0a8_k.jpg
20180121_144354 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr flat bottomed goodnesshttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4611/...3fdb870b_k.jpg
20180121_144414 by Michael Crawford, on Flickra friend of mine here in town has been helping me make my header flanges. These were done on his mill, and so far hes refused payment. They will be added to the budget one way or another, just a matter of how much.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4720/...f981c76e_k.jpg
20180116_170759 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4764/...1fb5ecbf_k.jpg
20180116_170752 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1135.71

recoup: 800 money spent:

header flanges: I gave sonny $40bought used stock c5 exhaust and some new in box header collectors from Charlie Tew for $20bought dinner ($26.87) in exchange for 3x unknown brand nitrous nozzles, used fuel pressure regulator for carb, 2x mangled and used headers, 1 wire alternator, 3x autometer ultralight gauges covered in tar, some exhaust flex pipe, and a pair of 3 inch to 2.5 exhaust reducersFMV $2 for a couple of pullies and a spare tensioner from my scrap bucketbought used s10 2.2 flywheel and clutch on eBay $40 shipped Current budget: 1286.58

recoup: 800so, Friday night I went to see a jeep owned by an old corvette customer of mine. He got out of vettes a while back, and asked me to fix the jeep. While there, he tried to give me his leftover vette stuff. I made him take $20 for the 2.5 collectors and stock exhaust. Didn't seem right getting 4x collectors NIB for free.Afterwards, I went to Dallas place to help sort trans issues with the AMC, and help him go through the barn and fill a dumpster. While doing this, we came across 3x unknown brand nitrous nozzles, used fuel pressure regulator for carb, 2x mangled and used headers, 1 wire alternator, 3x autometer ultralight gauges covered in tar, 2x 3-2.5 reducers, and some exhaust flex pipe. I asked him how much, and he said to buy dinner. I added in the cost of dinner at La Unica, his favorite Mexican restaurant.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4618/...f42bbefe_k.jpg
20180127_111628 by Michael Crawford, on Flickron the way back from dinner, I got t-boned by a 17 year old girl that was texting. I was turning left, she swerved into the oncoming lane to miss the people stopped behind me and slammed the drivers door of my 64 el camino into my ribs. Door is pushed in about 14 inches.....https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4603/...844df0cc_k.jpg
20180126_214146 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrwe both walked away. Dallas may have whiplash. I have bruised ribs, minor concussion, and somethings torn in both my left knee and shoulder. Trucks probably totaled.Anyway, needless to say, I didn't get much progress after that. This weekend ive been moving pretty damned slow. So I took it easy.I built a header.I started with some presumably Chevy headers that I had bought a while back from pat. Theyre roughly 1.5 primaries. The other set I got from Dallas are 1 ¾, and ill use them when I build the turbo manifolds later.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4538/...49e65297_k.jpg
20171202_103045 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI took the portaband to them to make sections. Kept a minimum of 1 inch of pipe around all the bends. Then dressed the ends on mt bench grinder and with a wire wheel.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4613/...410823fb_k.jpg
20180128_153627 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrgrabbed the flanges sonny and I had madehttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4720/...f981c76e_k.jpg
20180116_170759 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrto get the pipe into the flanges, I cut a series of relief notches through the end of the pipe. Bent them all in a little, worked the pipe into the flange, clocked it where I wanted it, tacked it, bent and beat the flaps outward to match the contours of the flange, and welded them up.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4608/...00b63ff7_k.jpg
20180127_133551 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4708/...737526bd_k.jpg
20180127_133547 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI then played with pieces and angles and such until I had all the primary tubes pointed in the same direction, and into a direction that would allow me to bolt up exhaust.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4678/...afebd5e7_k.jpg
20180128_134000 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrthe tubes wound up moving a bit when I fully welded everything. So I bolted all 3 sections to one of the factory cast iron manifolds, and then hose clamped the tubes together.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4741/...97fd38c3_k.jpg
20180128_135159 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4667/...27dd7911_k.jpg
20180128_135204 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrproceeded to use one of the 3-2.5 adapters as a collector. Beat tubes with a ball peen and bent the walls of the reducer until everything fit. Then tacked in place, heated the reducer up, beat it to shape with a bigger ball peen, and wended it up solid. Then I made a mistake. Well actually 2, but at the same time.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4664/...a00d6221_k.jpg
20180128_152706 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/...7da04235_k.jpg
20180128_152723 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrdid you see the mistake yet? I hadn't at this point.So I bolted the header up, all impressed with myself and feeling pretty awesome.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4604/...450ce05c_k.jpg
20180128_160822 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4660/...73941d1a_k.jpg
20180128_160831 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4724/...bb7733f7_k.jpg
20180128_160842 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrif the problem isnt obvious yet, lets look at it from underneath.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4604/...565bba55_k.jpg
20180128_161248 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrif you still havent figured out where I went wrong, ill tell you: there's no way to get the midpipe out of this side with the engine in. which means I couldn't remove the transmission. Which makes the car all but un-serviceable in the pits. The other mistake was not cutting down the collector before welding it in. it really chokes off the exhaust path on that side. So what ill need to do is carefully cut behind the weld, remove the collector, attach some strategically bent pipe, re-weld the collector flange on that strategically bent pipe, and then connect the midpipe. Should be fun......

Shit dude! Glad youre mostly okay.

The knee and shoulder have me worried. Took the day off work tomorrow to go get them looked at by my doctor, as the er was not exactly confidence inspiring

RIP El Camino.
You were too good for this world.

lol. Its been my daily off and on for 50k. The really sad part? Theres a pile of new interior, including seats and carpet, more audio gear, aftermarket ecm, full autometer sport comp gauge package in a custom gauge cluster made, a tilt steering column, cruise, keyless entry, and some new sheetmetal and trim in my shop. I was getting my shit together for after the challenge car and duster were done to take this truck up a few notches.

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1286.58 recoup total: 800new money:bought an aluminum seat sand cover from a grm member: 40 new total: 1326.58

recoup: 800I haven't been moving to quick the last few weeks. Migraines have been the worst they've been in years, which has dramatically slowed progress, and lessened the quality of my work.Anyway, last week john (untouchabl from grm) came over to see what I am doing to the car he sold me. He also brought an aluminum seat for me to try (too big for him). Seat fit me and the available space in the car. So I bought it at asking price ($40). I haven't figured out how I want to mount it yet, and am open to suggestions. Needs to be low in the car though. And sturdy. And cheap. Im thinking 3x3 angle iron bolted through the floor, then the sides of the seats. But there's gotta be a more elegant solution....https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4742/...8b2d7a43_k.jpg
20180203_164639 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4609/...44f89e8c_k.jpg
20180203_185333 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrive also been working on the drivers side header. You know, the hard one.I ran out of correct bends, and necessity is a mother. So I pie cut one of the tubes and welded it back together.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4654/...01062e9a_k.jpg
20180203_143220 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4764/...d2afa073_k.jpg
20180203_144619 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrlots of cursing and cutting later, I had a header for the drivers side.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4696/...82181b54_k.jpg
20180211_121115 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI then cut up one of the c5 muffler assemblies and used the 2.5 bends to get out to a slip fit with the flexible exhaust pipe chunks, then cut and sectioned the merge collector from the big block chevy truck pat sold me. Again, lots of cutting, grinding, and welding....https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4620/...d67b5952_k.jpg
20180211_154135 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4716/...a961326e_k.jpg
20180211_154113 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4669/...77e9e6d1_k.jpg
20180211_154120 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4711/...6e64e6ac_k.jpg
20180211_154107 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrim ready to mount the glasspack and build the tailpipe now. Some judicious beating of sheetmetal and pipe will be needed for clearance. Then build some hangars, take it all apart for final welding and grinding and.....also, I discovered that the stock miata driveshaft is exactly the right length for the swap, and I found a yoke in storage that fits the camaro trans. I think the yoke came as a tail shaft plug in a 700r4 I bought from the junkyard. Dads going to take both parts to the local driveshaft shop this week to see if we can get the two joined reasonably cheaply. Ive built a couple of driveshafts at home, and really DONT want to do that again.Lastly, ive been working on making intake and stuff fit. I cut the EGR boss off the 3500 intake, which let it sit down perfectly. Steve is going to weld up the holes for me, and that job will be finished. Also, we discovered that after notching one of the hood braces, this should fit under a stock hood with room to spare. We think.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4749/...8fa645d3_k.jpg
20180211_160307 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4746/...db0737fb_k.jpg
20180202_202832 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI still need to build the alternator mount as well, and then we can pull the car completely back apart for cleaning/seam sealing/painting, and start final assembly. We will be doing a good port and polish job on everything while we have it torn down for gaskets, and seeing if we can find hundreds of places to make things ounces lighter.

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1326.58 recoup total: 800new money: had a driveshaft made: 220

3 sway bars: 20

new total: 1566.58

recoup: 800so, its been a minute. But im back on this one. Trying to regain momentum, but struggling. Especially with everything thats been happening in life.However, over the past week, ive found my bearings on this project again. Got the exhaust all final welded and ground down.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/794/2...1bf5ba8e_k.jpg
20180408_081012 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrgot the alternator mount mocked up and tacked inhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/890/4...5923eede_k.jpg
20180408_081042 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr seat is mountedhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/864/4...c57245c5_k.jpg
20180408_081027 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrand got the coilovers put together.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/809/2...fe0f12f3_k.jpg
20180407_114910 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/800/4...33144be3_k.jpg
20180407_114901 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrlastly, I began on the shifter. Needs to have the handle about 4 inches back, so I cut it apart right where the console will clear, and plan to put a dog leg in it with a 1x1 piece of steel.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/790/3...1946cbd0_k.jpg
20180408_081819 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/884/4...a8557d71_k.jpg
20180408_084015 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1326.58 recoup total: 800new money: had a driveshaft made: 220

3 sway bars: 20

new total: 1566.58

recoup: 800im leaving the last budget update just as a reminder to myself.This weekend saw small, but major progress.First, I finished my shifter.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/795/2...b1a6281b_k.jpg
20180414_175135 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrfits my had perfectly, and provides nice short throws.The reason this was so major is that this was the last thing that needed to be fabricated to mate the new Gmv6 drivetrain to the miata. The last thing. The rest is simply connecting the dots.This means that I can now focus on finishing the seam welding, finishing the crossmember surgery, finsihing the firewall, clean, paint, etc. but all pushes it towards the light of first fire! Due to the challenges of the last few months, I don't believe its on track for the $2018 challenge any more. I have far too far to go in the next few months, which would leave me with no testing time. Which is why we didn't finish higher with the AMC. And with as off the wall as this one is, I definitely need testing time. So, im going to keep plugging away at it. See where/when it gets done, and how much time till the show I have.But first, I probably need to deal with this.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/864/4...a329be29_k.jpg
20180414_175157 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1326.58 recoup total: 800new money: seam sealer: 33.61 from amazonprimer and exhaust paint (free from trash day) white valspar: 14.97

black valspar: 32..50

safety red: 9.97goody box of 3400 parts: free (wvtumbler wouldn't take my money, but I owe him beer when I meet him) hydraulic clutch fittings: amazon 18.99

36 inch clutch line, ebay: 15.75 new total: 1692.37

recoup: 800for those that care, the current budget total is everything that ive purchased for this project. I have not prorated my latest supplies, as I don't know how much I am going to use yet. But im CERTAIN I wont use the full gallon of black. Also, the budget still contains things that I no longer plan to use at this time, like the SAFC. But im keeping it all tallied in at this time for my own records.Anyway, a couple of times a year my town does hazardous materials pickup free on curbside. So I went riding around as its also a good time to score bulk trash items as well. Didn't really get anything good except some rusty metal primer and silver high heat paint in half used cans from a couple of blocks over. So I used the high heat on the exhaust. Its damn near chrome. Not a fan, but who will see it?https://farm1.staticflickr.com/966/4...44549986_k.jpg
20180420_151121 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrive also begun the tedious task of grinding down welds. And re-welding some spots that need it. And welding some spots that I missed. Or dad missed. Or we both missed. After grinding and im happy with them, im shooting them with the free rusty metal primer. That then tells me whether I need to grind more, or im good. Again, tedious. The passengers side is fully welded except for capping the wing I cut in the engine bay. The driver side has a ways to go yet. While welding, this happened.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/944/4...52ecada0_k.jpg
20180427_183342 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrthat sucked. But no injury, just a hot foot and some lost hair. But here's the passengers side after grinding and weldinghttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/971/4...351fe63b_k.jpg
20180427_183209 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/949/4...f03f12a2_k.jpg
20180427_183219 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrapparently I didn't take a closeup of the ground down welds primed. But I experimented with a section I though was good enough. Used a cut down 1 inch brush and out some seam sealer down on the welded joints, then covered in my white vlaspar. Its good enough for my race car. But I learned much from these small sections, so the rest will be that much better.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/956/2...08b1ccea_k.jpg
20180429_124608 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/972/4...7d57c24e_k.jpg
20180429_124508 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/971/3...6f00f84d_k.jpg
20180429_124502 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/906/4...00a448af_k.jpg
20180429_124455 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrive also ground down and primed the undersidehttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/943/4...5160d82d_k.jpg
20180420_151337 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr and the butterfly bracehttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/826/4...8137a12e_k.jpg
20180427_192724 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrim painting the butterfly, frog arms, seat mount, tow hooks, and engine lift points red. The trans tunnel and engine bay will be white. The interior gloss black. The car has a definite theme coming, and its laid out in my head pretty fully, but it will be quite a while until the full look is realized. But its a tribute to the man I admire the most in this life, and that has fostered my love of cars, god, and family.Lastly, ive been collecting parts. Hydraulic clutch line stuff. Gaskets. Some maintenance parts. Lots were given to me by a fellow forum member that did this same swap in a chumpcar RX7. I want to say a big public shout out to ROB!!! thanks man, and as I said I owe you beer and a burger next time were in the same state.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/911/2...96159813_k.jpg
20180416_181453 by Michael Crawford, on Flickruntil next time friends. Itll be a couple of weeks until the next update, as were headed to Colorado for vacation at the end of the week. Meeting the rest of the family out there for my parents 50th wedding anniversary.

I lied. One more update before I leave.Ive been chipping away on lunch breaks this week. Grinding and cleaning up from the seam welding, then spraying the rustoleum primer on the bare metal. Every bit of brown you see is where we seam welded (that I have final prepped. Lots to go on the drivers side, and still some around the door and kick panel on the passengers)https://farm1.staticflickr.com/950/2...addc344d_k.jpg
20180501_191051 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/908/4...3664efee_k.jpg
20180501_191103 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/943/4...0b77201c_k.jpg
20180501_191124 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI then moved onto seam sealer. There's only two main areas I want to make sure are “pretty”. The floor, and the engine bay. The rest will never really be seen, and if it is, its either because somebody is buying the car, or I ran them over. Neither of which is very likely.Remember im using the cheap brush-able seam sealer from amazon. It also looks far better in person than in the pictures. I think this stuff slightly self levels as it dries.In the engine bay, on the 90-ish degree joints, I wanted a fillet look like you would with bathtub caulk. I could NOT find a way to get it in there I was happy with. In the end, I dipped my finger in the can and worked in it with a finger painting motion. I did wear rubber gloves. The gloves did rip. There is seam sealer under my fingernails on my right hand that got me funny looks at work.The flatter sections, where the factory did a lap weld seam, I used a 1 inch bristle brush to apply, making sure I worked it into the cracks and crevasses. I smoothed it with a foam brush afterwards, but it really didn't change the cosmetic properties any, if at all. Im still not super happy with how it came out, and hopefully another round (light coating for appearance purposes) makes them come out better.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/964/2...9e190764_k.jpg
20180503_160323 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrthe floors were all lap welds. So all done with the 1 inch brush. I laid it down THICK on the subframe connectors. I need to put something in the gaps where the body plugs were, and do another coat here as well. Im also debating skinning the whole floor with some .030 aluminum to give it a better appearance. Well see what I think after paint and lizard skin. I may do some stucco mesh over the black floor pans for visual contrast and floor traction. Haven't gotten there yet.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/903/4...07daffd8_k.jpg
20180503_160340 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrin the wheel well, where I don't really care about appearance, I could've used a putty knife or trowel. Instead, I used the 1 inch brush and just worked it in. this will be topcoated in satin black and tire marbles, so should disappear pretty quickly. It definitely needs another coat though.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/946/4...c2856030_k.jpg
20180503_160331 by Michael Crawford, on Flickralso, I found out just how well all the chassis work is paying off. To grind the welds in the passengers wheel well, I put my floor jack under the rear front lower control arm mount. And picked up 3 wheels. With no sway bars. And the struts not bolted in at the top. And no door bars yet. Freaking STIFF.

today was my first day back from vacation. So I finished prepping and welding the rest of the car.Step one was capping the wings in the engine bay.I had scored 3 pieces of sheet metal that were covers for the ballasts in fluorescent light fixtures. One was used for the caps.Start out with your pieces.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/945/4...62c2d6d9_k.jpg
20180513_113300 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrmake a CAD (cardboard aided design) template of what you need, and transfer to metal.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/961/2...478f1121_k.jpg
20180513_113304 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrbend metal and test fithttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/945/4...d1d241eb_k.jpg
20180513_113310 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrweld in place, hammer forming as necessary. Finish prepping and seam welding the engine bay while you're at it.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/966/2...b5c99d67_k.jpg
20180513_135634 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrfinish the rest of the welding, take pictures, go home and watch THOR with the family while updating build threads and drinking tea.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/906/2...efb0bd86_k.jpg
20180513_135642 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/4...6fcc31b5_k.jpg
20180513_135627 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrnext up is grinding, priming, and seam sealing.Until next time friends.

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1692.37 recoup total: 800new money: white rustoleum spray: 3.98also went through the budget sheet and pulled stuff that im not using to clean up the total to a more accurate numbersold the cruise/ac compressor/alt bracket from the 3400 for 20 new total: 1612.35

recoup: 820lots of progress, but not photoworthy....Dallas and I spent part of yesterday grinding welds. And doing more grinding. And cleaning. And grinding. And.....we sprayed the last of the rusty metal primer on the cleaned and ground welds. Today, I pushed the car outside, and pressure washed every square inch. Except the underside at the rear end. LOTS of dirt came off. Lots. Then I went ahead and sprayed a can of white rustoleum on the underside of the trans tunnel. Im still debating weather or not to use the redneck lizard skin under there, but im leaning heavily towards yes. My stock miata gets blistering hot through the sides of the trans tunnel, and it has extra insulation. And carpet. And a much smaller engine, with more clearance. And.....anyway, heres where I got today. Tomorrow while the wife and daughter are at girl scouts, I hope to get the rest of the seam sealer done. Then on to painting!https://farm1.staticflickr.com/824/4...95fe96b3_k.jpg
20180520_130619 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/4...6f6dae0d_k.jpg
20180520_130552 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/972/4...28ced51f_k.jpg
20180520_105825 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/4...7e65bce7_k.jpg
20180520_125241 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1612.35 recoup total: 820new money:bought reflectix insulation at lowes: 23:85bought dorman fittings for the fuel lines (5) for 12.997 ft steel fuel line at $1 foot.also went through the budget sheet and pulled stuff that im not using to clean up the total to a more accurate number. Stuff like pro-rating paint amounts, removing the 3500 stuff that im not using, etc. dropped a considerable amount there. Turbo and nitrous are still in the budget. However, were just running nitrous while sorting out the car. Turbo will be step 3. im leaving it in just to make sure that I can actually have the budget room to do it. new total: 1527.54

recoup: 820since last update, weve been getting steady progress made. I put a few more coats on the engine bay, and painted the interior. Not perfect, but good enough to photograph wellhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/877/4...03fb52f3_k.jpg
20180527_113437 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...39be8470_k.jpg
20180527_113431 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI then spent a considerable amount of time with acetone and paper towels cleaning all the overspray off the 5/16 fuel line and all the brake lines. While I was doing that, my daughter painted the butterfly brace. Dad came home, and finished the calipers, frog arms, and a little touch up on the butterfly. Apparently I don't have the finished picture, so use your imagination for now....https://farm1.staticflickr.com/873/2...b0365577_k.jpg
20180522_181531 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrbrake lines installed, wiper motor cleaned and installed. Its really nice to finally start bolting stuff back ON the car for the last time. I also went ahead and built the 3/8 feed line. I had this on the shelf. Cheapest I could find a roll on ebay was 25 feet for 25 bucks, or a buck a foot. There's 7 feet. I put bubbles on the ends with my mastercool flaring tool, and double clamp each piece of rubber hose (pull-a-part doesn't charge me for small lengths of rubber hose or hose clamps. So I have plenty at a budget free price.) the gm v6 runs at 53 psi of pressure, and I have shown myself that the double clamp and bubble trick survives much higher pressure than this (120psi before the hose burst and it never slipped). I however would not recommend it if other options are available, as there's much less finicky methods that don't require nearly as much fiddle fucking. Im doing it this way due to budget constraints) still need to redo the vent and hook up the return side of things to the tank, and the plumbing is done at this stage. Still need to figure out how to run the nitrous off the same supply as the efi. Never ran an efi system. Ever.Anyway, plumbing pictures.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/889/4...e87c8afb_k.jpg
20180528_144132 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm1.staticflickr.com/890/2...26bc4d7d_k.jpg
20180528_142509 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...9f9dd87a_k.jpg
20180528_142506 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI started insulating the firewall tonight, but didn't get very far, and didn't take any pictures. Suffice to say, the nest update will have a bit of that and more reassembly.Lastly, steve stafford helped do the last of the welding needed for the engine swap. We welded a water neck to the lower intake to be able to actually get water in and out of the engine. (no thermostat in there, and plan to make my own inline thermostat and housing setup). We also welded up the EGR port in the intake after I cut it off. This was required to clear the FWD timing chain cover with the upper manifold flipped. We decided not to run the 3500 upper and big throttle body at this time, as the jury is still out on its effectiveness vs the large port 3400 that this engine is. It may be good for some power in this application, but not enough for one twentieth of the budget.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/964/4...883170d9_k.jpg
20180526_084916 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...a65d082d_k.jpg
20180527_113454 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...f9d3dd57_k.jpg
20180527_113450 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrdon't forget to tell your family you love them.

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1527.54 recoup total: 820new money: torsen: 200

quick release wheel: 20

aluminum paint: 6.99satin black spray paint: dustin was throwing out a box of aerosol cans, I took what I wanted and he put the rest by the road to make them go away. They lasted about 9 minutes.further budget clean up (took out leftover steel and other supplies were pro-rated. Also, since wvtumbler gave me the box of leftovers from his project, I dont need the gasket kit. Or the hydraulic clutch fittings, as there was one in there!) new total: 1686.08

recoup: 820 progress!!!!finished off my rattle can of rustoleum in the trunk. We found last year that theres a lot of wrenching in the dark at the challenge. White makes things easier to see by flashlight. Since the nitrous and battery go back in the trunk, I brightened it. Badly, but the can was running out. I have a bit of white left yet from the valspar, and im thinking about putting a solid coat of that on. However, its not a priority. At all.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...b1004b99_k.jpg
20180608_192603 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI also spent a few minutes with a can of sating black. Blacked out the core support and fenderwells. Some off brand of paint ive never heard of, but the price was right....two days later its soft as hell and easily damaged. Theres a reason he was throwing it out.....https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...ff7e8110_k.jpg
20180608_192545 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...bcc1187d_k.jpg
20180608_192530 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI also scored a torsen with 4.11 gears for $200 from a failed challenge car project (also lemons racers. Cool, cool guys.) along with a miata steering column with quick release and wheel. I need to figure out if I can swap my ignition switch and other parts from the stock column with the quick release welded on. Hopefully. If someone can answer before I spend the time, that would be great!https://farm1.staticflickr.com/877/2...f0a763f2_k.jpg
20180601_200319 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...c9d63ac8_k.jpg
20180608_071040 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...dc6b0f90_k.jpg
20180610_112435 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrcleaned and painted the upper and lower manifoldshttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...fa661e6c_k.jpg
20180608_071019 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...f346e456_k.jpg
20180609_071506 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrfinished insulating the trans tunnel and drivers floor panshttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...87ed9e09_k.jpg
20180610_103149 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrpulled the carpet out of storage. This I will so a little more explanation on.These were the most disgusting carpets I have ever encountered. Honestly, the interior was the primary reason I parted this car out. It was that bad.https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/...71015e38_k.jpg
20171007_163818 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI had used a vacuum, castrol superclean and a garden hose on them to see if I could get them better during the parts car phase of this project. Some improvements were made, but they were garbage. Dont know why I put them in storage instead of throwing them out as I had planned, to be honest. But when I pulled them out of storage, this is what they looked like.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...58fbab4c_k.jpg
20180606_161423 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrthey were heavier than I was anticipating. As im trying to find a thousand places to save an ounce, I had to do something. Also, the jute and carpets were still dripping some unknown sticky substance. This would not do, and the were still too bad to use in a race car cosmetically. So I fixed them.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...377bf5a6_k.jpg
20180606_161204 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...54d4e782_k.jpg
20180606_161511 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrand then we got midevil on it. Superclean and a 10 degree nozzle on the pressure washer.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...9b90cc14_k.jpg
20180608_070931 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrdamn things are still sticky to the touch. But, race care pretty if you dont touche them...https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...f6ed1b86_k.jpg
20180610_103555 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrwent ahead and gutted the ac evaporator, cleaned the center stack and blower motor, and rehung them. In the excitement of rehanging stuff, pictures happened less. But, I pulled the bose stuff out of the dash. About 2lbs. Then passengers airbag. Roughly 10. but I pulled the cover and reinstalled it for cosmetic purposes. Theres more weight to come out of the dash, but thats going to wait for now.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...66f6bf0e_k.jpg
20180610_101015 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...5c989e96_k.jpg
20180610_104612 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...2534b971_k.jpg
20180610_111807 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrran the dash home, and tossed the seat in. nice to have parts being consolidated.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...9153d504_k.jpg
20180610_112224 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...986992f6_k.jpg
20180610_143649 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrthe big project this week was the front crossmember. I needed to do a little more clearance just for service room. I also needed to do something about the fact that I cut the thing up radically, and it had lost all strength it ever had. After some brief thought, I came up with a plan. First, some 1x1 tube welded to the horiszontal surfaces. These were both seam welded and plug welded, includeing as far as I could get inside the crossmember.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...bdb2ba51_k.jpg
20180609_100532 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...691ef331_k.jpg
20180609_105307 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrafter I welded those, I took a leftover piece of lintel from some foundation repair when we bought our house. Ground it down, drilled some holes, did some trimming, and burned it in.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...de2e954e_k.jpg
20180609_105319 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrmade some block offs for the wings, and a piece of angle reinforced the motor mounts. Went ahead and welded the entire thing where the two halves meet, as well as all the parts that were just partially welded or tack welded. Lots and lots of welding. And then a lot of grinding. But its DONE.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...4de7cd4e_k.jpg
20180610_143516 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...ff6b8846_k.jpg
20180610_143502 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhave a good week, y'all. And remember to be grateful for your blessings.

Challenge budget so far:previous challenge budget: 1686.08 recoup total: 820new money:2 thermostat housings from pull-a-part: 11.00traded the autometer ultralight gauges to myself for some REALLY scuzzy sunpro (oil/water/volts/tach) oil pan gasket: 12.60 new total: 1709.68

recoup: 820kicking ass and taking names.First, dad painted the crossmember.He made my mediocre fabrication look GOOD.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/876/4...ee691ee4_k.jpg
20180612_195646 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrthen we assembled the engine. WVTumbler had sent a care package mentioned earlier in the thread. A,azingly, it contained EVERY gasket I needed except oil pan and exhaust manifold gaskets. He even had new intake bolts in the box. Amazing guy. I bought the pan gasket, but am debating using a real gasket or high temp RTV for the exhaust. We then loaded it up in the back of dads truck, and he took it to a friend of his for broken exhaust stud removal. Neither of us have ever been any good at that, and these heads dont need to get damaged by my hamfistedness. Were supposed to be able to go pick it up this week sometime, but as kenny is a HVAC guy with a sick wife, were not holding our breath. Its over 100 degrees here today....https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...67294b8e_k.jpg
20180612_195557 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...5be60c20_k.jpg
20180612_195611 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrwhen we get the engine back, well clean and paint it, as well as finish the alternator mount.In preparation for engine reinstall, I went ahead and finished the crossmember. To do so, I first depowered my replacement rack. That wasn't a fun job, but its done.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1826/...ca330618_k.jpg
20180616_121228 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrreassembled it all with the bilsteins, brakes, rack, etc. and rolled it out of the way under the car.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1785/...5bc12cb8_k.jpg
20180616_143746 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1761/...bdb4c3f3_k.jpg
20180616_151039 by Michael Crawford, on Flickralso, I need to note my bumpstops. Wound up with a buch of NB front bump stops. Cut them all down to 1.5 inches and put them in.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1823/...c60eab8a_k.jpg
20180616_143832 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrive also begun the task of wiring and gauges. Nothing to report on wiring yet, but I built the cluster. To do so, I first spent far too much time researching how to make the stock tach work with a v6. Never could figure it out. This opened up the cluster to slight modification. By slight modification I mean I stripped it completely, cut the fuck out of it, gutted some other gauges and cut them, and put it all back together.The tach was primary concern. I traded myself the ultralights I bought for some really rough sunpro gauges. Tach, oil, water, and volts. Somebody had painted the bezels blue with nailpolish, glass cracked, the tach had been apart multiple times and the housing was falling apart, etc. pretty much garbage. I had actually offered them for free, and had no takers. So I don't feel bad about trading myself. If I had traded someone else, I would have called myself a sucker.https://farm1.staticflickr.com/888/2...59903520_k.jpg
20180613_113240 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...e9a493c4_k.jpg
20180613_113244 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...dccf94ad_k.jpg
20180613_143223 by Michael Crawford, on Flickryou can see in the second picture I ripped the guts out of the tach. I then proceeded to re-gut the factory tach with the sunpro parts. Do so so, I used the factory face, redrilled for the sunpro pattern. Used the sunpro face to mark the pattern. I wound up needing the clear plastic backer as well, but its not in pictures. The face itself proved to be too flimsy to stand alone.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1785/...3e3554b1_k.jpg
20180615_183322 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...598c095e_k.jpg
20180615_183830 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI then put the miata needle on. Proved to be too tall....https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...4044ed8e_k.jpg
20180615_183843 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrcut down, and redrilled the shaft hole with my pin drill.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1827/...f8453b76_k.jpg
20180615_183955 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrall the tools used minus the phillips screwdriver for the tach conversion.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1784/...dc35b881_k.jpg
20180615_184010 by Michael Crawford, on FlickrI got into the zone on the next part and stopped taking pictures. Suffice to say, I pulled the bezels form the water and oil gauges, and cut the white plastic until everything fit properly. Used my dremel for that. Then used hot glue to hold it all in place. The fuel gauge will be relocated to where the stereo used to be. I also need to put some lights in.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...0e57d2e6_k.jpg
20180616_180001 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...cacff150_k.jpg
20180616_175637 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrthis cluster is only for the challenge. I actually have a full set of autometer pro-comp gauges that will be added after the challenge. But they were budget breakers. I had bought them for my elky before it was totaled.....also, I figured out my thermostat solution. With the welded neck at the back of the intake, there's no way to put the factory thermostat in. so I grabbed two housings from magnum v8 mopars in the junkyard, and the corresponding thermostat. As im leaving the heater core in, that will act as the bypass. Then these will be bolted and RTV'd together with a thermostat in the middle. With them being steel, I can weld a tab on to bolt it down for support, as its not light....https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...54694308_k.jpg
20180616_102618 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

You'll want to check shock travel with the springs off once you assemble the car. Basically checking for tire to metal interference with the car sitting on the bump stops. I betcha you'll find the rear bumps need to be closer to an inch long if not shorter without extended top hats. This matters, you could be giving up over an inch of wheel travel and cause the car to snap oversteer when you get into the stops mid corner.

Cool. Thanks! Will do. I really just topk a stab at the length.

not much this week, to be honest. Been busy playing with trucks....spent a lot of the week rebuilding the dash and HVAC in my truck. Still have the rest of the interior to do.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1761/...e3fb99d3_k.jpg
20180618_195121 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrrewired a 65 mustang for s customer (no pictures)was the puppet and storyteller for VBS at churchhelped dad get the trans sorted in his truck and plumbed it for himhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1821/...8993fca4_k.jpg
20180624_125412 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrbut on the challenge car front: I finished the alternator mount and motor mounts. Added gussets, fully welded, and drilled and tapped the one ear of the alternator for a triangulation tab.https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1837/...18076fb1_k.jpg
20180624_084526 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrhttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1804/...7a7d2e51_k.jpg
20180624_092305 by Michael Crawford, on Flickrno finished pictures, as I cut a finger pretty badly shortly after that picture. Called it a day....