D'oh, prior dyno customer's car broke ON the dyno this morning. :( Staff was very apologetic, and offered 50% off my rescheduled runs.

So, "dyno day" has been rescheduled to Friday, March 4th at 8:30am. :)

I love following this thread :likecat:

Dyno was operable this morning! This will be the abbreviated version of the diatribe I posted in the M.net NC power forum...

http://photos.napalm.net/clubsi/Offi..._processed.jpg

The two overlaid plots are my car's best (Run 3) in 100% stock configuration, and then the best (Run 5) in the same 100% stock config along with an ECU tune. The environmental stats were nearly identical with the exception of higher humidity back in the original stock run.

Yup, four horsepower and two pounds of torque. The good news is I only paid half price for the session :D I'm not really sure what I expected, except for more. Still, this car dyno'd awfully high right out of the OEM box; maybe I got a ringer and there's only so much more a tune could do?

This is the very last day of the car's normally aspirated life; as soon as the car arrives in the garage tonight, the tear down begins. Well, maybe after dinner, so the wife doesn't murder me :D

For those who want to see the boring YouTube video:

wow that's a lot of torque and power stock

The NC platform has a bit of power leg-up on the prior gens, but also has to drag around a bit more weight. Still, if I recall correctly, the NC straightline acceleration figures were basically equal to the MSM NB from the factory floor.

You are correct.

Eagerly awaiting install pics, and post-install dyno.

Received a phone call from Bryan / Fab9 an hour ago; the remaining parts are shipping out tomorrow (hung up on oil lines.)

YES! POSITIVE MANIFOLD PRESSURE IS POSITIVELY IN MY NEAR FUTURE :D

Still have a stack of family and friends in the house until Saturday afternoon, so limited access to getting shit done this coming weekend. The following weekend however...

Didn't think to grab the gauges and slimline battery when I snapped these pics, you'll just have to see them later :)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459032373
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459032373
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459032373

What AR are you running on that 6758?

It's the full vband setup, so 0.85a/r. You can only go smaller a/r with this frame if you use a T3 flange.

Bryan also offers this kit with the smaller frame 6258, or the bigger 7163.

Sorry if I am using your thread to wonder, but Savingtons kit for the NA/NB uses the T25 flange because that is the only current way to get the .64 a/r. He says he did that for the best response. Will the extra .2 liters of displacement with the NC engine compensate for the bigger a/r that the v-bands come with or is it forever doomed to be less responsive?

:likecat:

You're welcome to use the thread to wonder, because I honestly can't say I have the answers yet either :D We're all gonna find out, because you bet your ass I'll be posting the dyno from 2krpm up!

Progress is slow and painful with a family over Easter weekend. Car is back up on jackstands, hood is up, driver's seat is removed, the center console and part of the rear bulkhead has been extricated -- and that was the entire weekend. Only have about 5,000 more days of work at this rate :(

I think the small frames (B1?) use either a T25 .64 or a V-band .85. T3 should only come on the larger frames, unless they are offering even more options now.

Just doing some quick math, my 2500lbs/330whp, puts me right at that 7.5hp/lb you're looking for. Let me tell you, it's an amazing feeling. Good luck with it!

Ahh, yes I suppose the T25 makes far more sense than the T3. Shows you how much I know! Either way, only thing Bryan is offering is vband regardless of frame size. The 6258 offering was primarily a reaction to someone asking; he suggests it only for people who would be happy with a horsepower glass ceiling of low 300's on the factory NC 2L.

Love the MSM by the way; I sorely miss my '04 Ti. I was living in SoCal when I bought it, so I bolted up a Forge valve and (CARB-approved!) AEM CAI and had a blast. That was my first turbo Miata experience, and I knew I needed moAR.

Sold the MSM (stupid, stupid, stupid) for a 2014 Mazda 6 GT. Love the GT, but wish I had kept the MSM on the side. Oh well, now I have an NC and can do stupid things with it :)

The EFR 6258 can probably hit mid-300s on a 2.0L if I can get 330whp from a 1.9 (really a 1.84) on 20-21psi. Now, it's a great turbo and I'm sure the .85 will still be fantastic for the NC's 2.0, given all the other things this turbo has that others don't like that Ti-Gamma wheel.

I personally can't help but think that the v-band only offering is more for keeping costs down (no $100+ hardware to use). Then again, you do have a 2.0 so maybe that .85 is more ideal for you. I don't really know, but you won't ever be sad with an EFR in your car.

I dont think its a cost cutting measure. It achieves the same results while sealing better, being way more simple, and easy to install/remove

win/win

the .85 is likely not even an issue on the 2.0 non-BP

Yea, the extra displacement probably bridges the gap. I wonder if anyone has actually done a comparison between the .64 and .85. I dunno, if I wanted bigger, I'd just get a 6758, but I already have a T25 manifold, so for me to change that to V-Band and have it re-coated would be more expense than it's worth.

Maybe I'm just bitter cause when I got my EFR, there was no V-band housing available.

Well, both the 6258 and 6758 v-band housings only come in .85 a/r. I have the early weak 2.0 versus ABFX's forged 2.0 in the later NC's, so I will put in a 2.5 before I ever turbo in the first place. The stock 2.5's are built very well, so I don't really think I even need to build it. I really doubt I will have any spool problems with all that displacement, but what I am worried about is the power level before the transmission starts breaking. I intend for my car to be an HPDE/fast street car that has to be driven to events, so I want to be reliable above all. With the 2.5's extra displacement, then the 6258 should make 350 whp easy and I am pretty sure that is where it would need to stay for reliable track operations.

Or I could just get the 6758 and run low boost on track, with high boost only for the streets?

Mann:This is the 3rd trans in the car, 2nd NC2 trans. The first burnt a 5th gear at 300 torque, the second lost the shift forks or syncros after a track day, the current one is going strong so far.

That guy already burnt multiple transmissions.

Mann: Might be. Trying to decide now if I should throw in the carillo rods and cp pistons in 9:1, button it up with some h11 studs and shoot for 600+, or just do another stock motor and keep it at 15 psi for 50k miles and actually drive the car. Hard choice.

So it seems like the logical way to do things would be to just throw in a stock 2.5 (adding ARP head studs, cams, and springs) and keep it mild boost for track days. So 6258 for instantospool and a hard upper limit of around 350 whp for street fun. I will actually drive the car a lot, like he is saying, so I think I have a plan.

Link to the whole thread. https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed...tx2971r-86769/

It was absolutely not a cost cutting measure, in fact we made it a point to consider cost one of our last priorities. Premium is premium and if it reflected in the cost, so be it. Fortunately for us, we've produced the best option out there with pricing whithin the ball park of existing solutions.

Secondly, ask Albuquerquefx in about a week how he'd feel about installing hardware in the same position. It allowed us to have the only manifold on the market without an awkward collector. It's a true, full flowing 4-1 merge collector, none of these jumbled runners coming in at all directions.

.85 is intentional and no limiting factor on an EFR and certainly not on an NC cylinder head. These things breathe like a proper engine. Something we couldn't say previously about our BP engines. Having a complete NC running this kit I can tell you the power band leaves nothing to be desired. Our stock 2.0 has gobs of power everywhere and it's currently on wastegate pressure until the body work is completed on the flares. Due to the squat and clearance under accelleration we chewed up a set of rather expensive 285 drag radials on one of our first test drives with fender contact.

Yeah, I posted elsewhere in that thread. In fact, your bolded section I believe was directly in response to my similar question to yours :noob: (j/k)

It appears to me, naively, the NC transmissions hate life as torque exceeds 300lb/ft. The theory could be: if I can keep the torque flat and continue spinning the motor, 350++HP should be easily attainable without (serious worry of) fragging the trans. It's all theory now, and would require A: a bit of boost management and B: a bit of tuning finesse.

The 2.5L is naturally going to gravitate to a higher torque number, which means you're probably MORE (moAR?) likely to make a bunch of metal gravel when you dial in ALLOFIT. Perhaps consider giving it only SOMEOFIT? Blasphemy, of course :hatecat:

Also, the overheated engine? I don't see him mention anywhere an oil cooler. The death of these motors doesn't appear to be water temperature at all; I replaced my radiator simply as part of due diligence, however the oil temperature seems to be a very critical component of the NC's lifespan. If I needed to pick and choose, the oil cooler would have come first on mine. I'm gonna go over there and ask now that I think of it.

Which, by the way, I do not have the SETRAB I ordered in my garage parts pile yet. Still working with Bryan to figure out how best to get it integrated...

Dang, didn't even see that Bryan responded to my build thread. I feel loved :D

And yeah, vBand for me all day err' day, kthx. Jerking around with T25 flanges and studs and nuts and lock washers and gaskets can suck it.

Starting tonight, the Miata is getting the night shift from me. I have a loving wife and two fantastic kids, none of which I would ever trade for the world, and after I'm gone from 7am to 6pm they all need attention. Still, I've made basically ZERO real progress on anything, which is irritating to say the least :(

Bucktooth Miata sneak peek... :)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459736754

This was noon today. Radiator is replaced, injectors are in, working thru the clutch now. When that's done I will finish the fuel pump stuff, then gut the center stack and begin working the gauges.

Plenty more to do...

More!

Been focused on getting work done rather than taking pictures, sorry :(

Stock exhaust removed.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460385755

Clutch and flywheel are in.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460385755

Did I mention I don't have air tools at the moment? You know what's great about removing this shit without air tools? F*$( YOU, THAT'S WHAT :hatecat: :hatecat:

While the bellhousing is off, the oil sending unit (which is used for the turbo oil feed) is immediately accessible on the driver's side. I took the opportunity to get the plumbing in for that side. Also got the coolant lines spliced and ready. Also performed the minor modifications required for the passenger side engine mount (redrill the mounting holes to 1/2", and shave down the upright stud to clear the cold side.)

I'm having a challenge finding a stubby 9/16" bit to perform the block tap. I'm going to try tonight with a normal length bit; I feel like I have enough room to make it work.

Also not pictured, I have the dash entirely apart and ready to begin pulling wiring for the gauges.

Have a cat, and take a day off! The NC turbo community needs your progress!

Got stuck on the transmission last night. I can get the bellhousing nearly to the dowel pins, but it stops about 1/4"-1/3" away from properly mating. I'm wondering if somehow I've misaligned the clutch with the pilot bearing; gonna pull it back apart tonight and retry my hand with the clutch alignment tool.

I also ended up missing a pair of M14/4AN water fittings for the turbo somehow. I'm gonna hit up my local dyno + speed shop on the way home to grab the requisite parts, if they have them. (Corrected size, thanks Bryan :) ) The rest of the cooling system is all connected and ready now.

Going back through the parts (looking for the water fittings) I found my spark plugs and got those put in. I've also got a place on the radiator wall marked up for cutting tonight. I'm stupidly close to getting this thing started for the first time...

I'm jealous of your stock internals...

For those who are looking to do the Fab9 kit as a DIY kit, which is entirely feasible, make sure to take Bryan's offer for the loaner drill and bit:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461077746

You aren't going to find a stubby 9/16" anywhere, he tossed a normal-length bit on a lathe and shrank it to size. The Milwaukee 90* drill also makes it worlds easier than trying to get to the same spot via removing the passenger motor mount and tilting / dropping the engine.

I found it easiest to start with smaller bits (I began with a 3/16") as a pilot hole and worked my way up. If you go straight for the big boy, it walks all over the side of the block. Dont go nuts with the smaller ones, just use them to get the hole started and then partially enlarged enough so the big bit drilling trajectory is controllable ;)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461077746
There's my little 3/16" pilot hole. From there I went several larger increments, before arriving at the final 9/16".

Now, this next part is a bit worrisome to me... The last time I tapped a pan for an oil return, I had the pan completely off the car so I could easily clean out the shrapnel. I also didn't have to worry about later tapping the hole I just drilled for proper pipe threads.

This is not the pan, it's the engine block. It's soft aluminum, there's no perfect way to get contorted under the car to drill it comfortably, and the only real way to control metal shrapnel is to keep a fat wad of bearing grease on the end of the bit and around the hole. So I went a bit OCD with it -- I'd drill (slowly!) for fifteen or twenty seconds, I'd remove the bit, clean it off thoroughly, re-glob it with a huge booger of bearing grease, and drill slowly for another fifteen or twenty seconds. It took me probably ten minutes, easily, to finally get to the point where I was through the block.

Even after that, I used a heavy smear of bearing grease on my pinky and then rubbed my finger around the inside edge of the hole I just drilled. Somewhat to my OCD dismay, there were several small aluminum granules on the inside which I removed with my greased pinky finger.

Then to add to the worry, you have to TAP those holes with an 3/8" NPT tap. I know how to use a tap, I've done it multiple times, and the first concern is always to make sure you keep the approach angle consistent as to not jack up the threads you're trying to create. Egads! Apply bearing grease in glob form, tap about 2/3rds of a turn, back out, clean grease, apply grease, tap another 2/3rds of a turn, back out, apply grease...

Chunklets of your source material always come out with a tap, which takes my worry to the next level. Gloved pinky finger was all up in there trying to keep the shrapnel on the OUTSIDE of the block. Eventually I finished, but I then discovered my Permatex high-temp thread sealant was old and seems to have been open, so I need to go buy more before I can finish this...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461077746

Unrelated to the pictures, I got my PPF aligned properly, got the driveshaft in and torqued properly, also got the alternator put back in (after removing the heat shield) and the belts back in. Should be install the manifold and hang the turbo tonight :)

Continued progress, engine bay mostly back together:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461163363

Turbo isn't hung, that thing is a PITA. First, to get it UP into the engine bay properly, I removed the wastegate actuator and loosened the vband locking the coldside so I could clock the intake at will. I only figured this out after fighting it for five minutes, mostly making me the dumbass.

I got the turbo all up in there, but the damnable vband clamp which holds the hotside to the manifold must be loosened to the point of taking the nut OFF. In the fully assembled state, this sizing is optimal. For getting the damn thing hung and connected? Expletives abound. I sounded like the bastard child of the unholy union of Louis CK and Lewis Black.

Also got the permatex which allowed me to get the oil drain fitting in the block.

I really like how the newcomer to miata performance is producing the high quality, baller setups in a kit. Well done fab9.

Baller kit is right though; every part he's sent me has been top notch. Obviously you've seen the welds and the intercooler + tanks from the pics which are both fantastic; he's also using all-Vibrant v-bands and t-bolt clamps, I think it's 6-ply for the silicon sleeves. Even the coolant "tees" are in-house milled aluminum parts which are gorgeous.

The whole thing looks as professional as you could possibly get with aftermarket; hell an OEM setup wouldn't even likely use parts this good.

The good news: Car is rapidly approaching completion. All the wheel well splash guards and plastic radiator / AC condenser ducting are back in. I'm ONE part away from putting the nose back on. Got the ignition turned on last night, long enough to test the new fuel pump and associated wiring. And it works!

The not-as-good news: the oil drain fitting must be installed onto the turbo before getting it hung; t isn't feasible to get it in around the engine mount post-install. My dumb self didn't think about this; I had it hung and tightened, I had charge pipes attached, I had water and oil feeds connected, and then realized I couldn't get the oil drain in. So I thoroughly enjoyed taking it all back apart again.

That last sentence was a lie :hatecat:

I'm waiting on three parts to come in, and perhaps another hour or two of labor. Then I need to test ensure the oil feed is actually getting oil, then I need to load up Joe's ECU tune, and I can take it for a short test drive. Yissssssssss....

Also about this: I'm not gonna lie, given the limited room between the block and the chassis, this was a bear. I swore a lot, mostly because I've never hung a vband turbo before. Turns out that I had actually been getting it almost-right more times than I realized, one edge of the band would still remain popped up which would make it impossible to squeeze the clamp shut. After taking a moment to look at it from the top while "half-hung" (and after removing the factory brake line heat shield I had installed too early) I immediately recognized what I was doing wrong. One more solid attempt and it was in right, and actually tightening it down was a cakewalk.

Also, the loose-but-still-connected vband allowed me to "clock" the turbo respective to the manifold, which was VERY useful for connecting the oil and water feed lines.

I'm now a fan, after I realized my error. After both of my errors, the second of which was the oil drain fitting. Derp!

I enjoy reading about your trials and triumphs.

LOL, well that's one more person than I would have guessed ;)

Minor change to plans: I'm ordering a set of the 70 durometer engine mounts and a set of Hella Supertones while I have the front end apart. I also ordered the necessary pigtail to leverage the integrated boost control solenoid on the turbo. It isn't here until Thursday, so I might as well use the extra downtime to my best advantage :)

Been a while since I've posted an update, so... A few weeks ago I found and ordered the proper Borg Warner boost control solenoid wiring pigtail so I may use it with my Innovate SCG-1 controller / gauge. Since it took a few days to come in, I decided to burn the wait time by installing a set of 70 durometer engine mounts and upgrade the shitty "meep meep" factory horn with a pair of Hella Supertones. First is the Hella horns installed alongside the intercooler. Had to build a small wiring harness for the upgraded power and ground feeds, but the horns bolted straight into the factory horn locations -- yes, plural for locations, because despite only coming with ONE horn from the factory, there were matching locations on both sides.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463114458

Finished engine bay, sans my aftermarket Cobalt shock tower brace, right before I put the nose back on. You can see the 3 bar MAP sensor wiring in the far background, I later cleaned it up a bit with some proper black loom, tape and zipties. Check out the factory exhaust manifold heatshield keeping the brake line temperature in check...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463114458

A different angle...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463114458

And the nose is back on!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463114458

I've had it running long enough to get the coolant refilled and burped and to discover a tiny oil leak. Turns out the leak is coming from the small stack of brass tees I installed to run my dual-function oil pressure + temp gauge. They're NPT fittings so I'm not sure how they're leaking, but whatever -- permatex to the rescue there. I need to go take more, but this should hold everyone over for now.

Fab9's 3" turboback exhaust is ordered and should be at my office waiting when I return from my 11 days of upcoming travel.

:yippee:

congrats!

In soviet's build thread, his 6758 only spooled 300 rpms (given it wasn't an exact, definitive side by side) slower than the 62 and made better power as well. I want to do some more research myself but it seems like they are very comparable

Good info! I haven't read Soviet's thread in forever. Did he have a ported head? The 2.0 in alb's NC has both more displacement and way better flow than a BP, so I bet the spool will be practically the same.

I'm back from my travels, although I'm a bit underwater from being sick. A long weekend approaches, and I'll kick my own nutsack if I'm not able to drive this puppy to work on Tuesday (weather notwithstanding.)

Someone at the office gave me a gentle jab for not posting an update ;)

First and foremost, I'm driving the car. It went to work with me at the end of last week, and then came back to work with me today. My tuner has warned me (obviously) to avoid WOT for this initial tune, and overall the tune is very conservative. The long term fuel trims are pulling fuel at a moderate rate, you can feel the ignition timing is pretty tepid and throttle response off-idle isn't quite right but I've yet to log any knock. While not trying, I've seen positive manifold pressure several times in almost every gear, mostly moving through city traffic or on the freeway / onramps.

Despite the tepid tune and flimsy off-idle response, I'm pretty happy with the clutch feel. It's awfully close to stock pedal pressure and just a tad grabby -- I fully expect the grabby will wear down a touch as more miles pile on. The gears do exhibit a bit more chatter I think, although still only in the lowest gears at similarly low RPMs. The new poly engine mounts have also worn in a bit, the first rush of vibration helped me to find a few items in the engine bay and elsewhere which needed a bit of tightening or adjustment. Here's one which surprised me: the hood prop rod joint rattles like a little turd, and I haven't figured out how to fix it other than (for the moment) wrapping a shop rag around it. Nearly every other rattle has been easy to find and remedy.

Now for the niggling issues.

The vband clamp between the manifold and turbo has a slight leak. This isn't Fab9's fault, I swapped their provided vband clamp for my own Vibrant quick-release clamp. The sizing (diameter) is correct, however I'm guessing the mated flange thickness is actually thinner than my aftermarket clamp expects and thus a tiny bit of leak is permitted. I didn't even realize that was the leak until yesterday; I had previously assumed it was my upstream O2 sensor bung-plug at the top of the downpipe. My fault for not doing a better diagnosis; I could've fixed it over the weekend otherwise.

Finally, I have a tiny oil leak at the bottom of my block-tapped drain plug. I used permatex on the threads before installation, however believe I made the hole just a tad bit too high and now the hex head of the drain fitting stops at the gusset in the block. When I first installed the drain plug, it didn't look like a whole lot of thread was meeting the block at the bottom edge, and now it looks like my guess is correct. I'm still working on the solution to this; my first whack was to clean it off and build up a layer of liquid metal filler epoxy at the lower edge. After curing, I backed the drain out, re-applied permatex, and reinstalled. This slowed the leak to almost nothing, basically a drop overnight, but it's still a leak and it's going to bug me. I'll probably pull it back apart again, and try once more with additional epoxy buildup.

The oil leak is a bummer, the exhaust leak will be easy to fix, the rest seems to be good :)

Fun fact: I DID get the Innovate SCG-1 tapped into the turbo's integrated boost control solenoid. Innovate specs their unit up to 30Hz @ 12v switched ground, the BW EFR solenoid is rated to 33Hz @12v switched ground, so all is well the world. Can't really test it out yet until I get the tune dialed in, of course.

As soon as I get the exhaust leak sorted, I'll start sending off data logs to get the tune dialed up.

Why not grind the block rib so you can turn the hex on the drain plug?

I was actually thinking that next, to be honest. The leak was so small, I was going to see if I could simply seal it. Since that didn't work, and I need to pull the turbo loose anyway to fix the vband exhaust leak issue, I may just take the grinder to the block and fix that way :)

congrats man. In for dyno graphs :)

I'm back from the annual family Florida trip, pulled into the garage around 6pm Saturday night. The '14 Mazda 6 GT daily driver picked up better than 35mpg on a single tank of gas from Seagrove, FL to our home outside of Memphis, TN while maintaining an average cruise speed (computer-indicated) of 74mph. That includes kiddo break stops and a large swath of 55mph zone too ;)

Anyway, Saturday was a wash and Sunday was mostly spent catching up on chores -- grocery store, washing clothes, unpacking the clean dishes, mowing the lawn (10 days between mowings, and our lawn care folks came and sprayed on Monday which made it grow even faster.) Had about 30 minutes to play with the Miata, tried like a mofo to get the stupid shallow vBand connected between manifold and turbo and simply couldn't get it.

I'm gonna have to disconnect pretty much the entire turbo (oil and water feed and drain lines, intake plumbing, exhaust plumbing) so I have enough room to work. I take back whatever else I said was the hardest part of the install; for me, getting the turbo attached to the manifold within the confines of the engine bay is the hardest part. Drilling the hole in the block was mentally taxing, but not physically difficult.

The timing is OK though, because Bryan sent along a picture and some simple instructions for his propsed modification to the oil drain NPT fitting as it connects to the lower side of the turbo. The update basically shortens the NPT fitting by half, removing a potential issue with oil backing up into the core under heavy usage.

Car is back on the road! I'm still on the very first tune, had to get the exhaust leak fixed and put some miles on it before sending it back for the next tune update -- it kept thinking it was lean, so the LTFT was something stupid like +30% for a while. Since this is the very first tune, I'm under orders to avoid anything over ~50% throttle and ~4krpm. As such, I made a little video of a 2nd / 3rd gear jaunt at 30% throttle and shifting at 4k. Data log showed 4.6psi at 32% throttle and 3700rpm in 3rd gear..


Fixed the self-induced exhaust leak by removing the vband I had opted to use instead of the one provided. Also removed the oil drain line and changed the fitting per Bryan's instructions. Also fixed another oil leak which was coming from the brass fitting above the oil filter which I had forgotten to re-Permatex after making some adjustments a few weeks ago.

Gave it a thorough cleaning of the exterior and interior; it was really nasty from sitting in the garage for 60 days. I actually need to re-wax it too, somehow it collected a new scratch on the front driver's fender (wager it was my 4yo daughter parking her bicycle. ) Just a thin wisp entirely within the clear coat, so a bit of wax and elbow grease will make it go away.

http://photos.napalm.net/clubsi/WP_2...50_35_Rich.jpg

Drove it to work again today. The goofy Miata grin now has braces, as well it should! (the visible handicap logo is actually painted over in gray, I'm not illegally parked in a real handicap spot I promise!)

http://photos.napalm.net/clubsi/WP_2...12_36_Rich.jpg

Need another 350 miles to properly break in the clutch. I'll need at least that much to get the tune completely dialed in.

Nice little sleeper.

Two very small snippets of logs I took today.

First and foremost: these logs are performed on the SECOND flash program for the car: the first flash was intended primarily to get the car to even start correctly on the new gear. Any reasonable turbo setup will go through a dozen of these flash iterations, so we're VERY early in the process.

These runs are also on the stock 1.75" Mazda midpipe and exhaust. No 3" test pipe here, the downpipe connects a funnel-shaped compression flange to the stock Mazda resonators, midpipe, muffler and tips.First image: snippet showing transient response; 3rd gear light acceleration (slow roll into 35% throttle) which easily generates positive manifold pressure. Don't have to mash the gas to get the turbo to spool:
Attachment 176436

Second image: rolling into WOT in fourth gear around 2000 RPM. Mixture is still rich on this conservative tune and we get boost threshold in 7/10ths of a second / 400rpm.
Attachment 176437

Borg Warner's EFR series means serious business.

It is also amazing what these EFRs do on an engine that flows worth a damn. They certainly do a great job at masking how shitty the BP head flow is.

I love these NC EFR builds, a serious contender for a fun daily driver.

to be honest that's not really amazing spool. most turbo's will dip into positive pressure, 1-1.5psi, upon throttle tip in (unless grossly oversized). the real kicker is when they actually dip into significant boost. 5+

however

I'm 100% sure this setup will be really awesome once you open up the exhaust and crank up the boost, so I am in no way shape or form doubting how nice it's going to be.

^^ Absolutely agree. I'm more surprised what the damned thing does choked up on the stock exhaust and the 2nd remote ECUTek tune. There's a TON of room here for improvement, and I'll be posting more logs after exhaust, after tune, et al. At least now I've published an example of where I started, so the delta between here and completely done should be easily visible.

I've hidden a bunch of the columns, as most of the ECUTek tuners consider the truly important data points (ignition timing, VVT angle, drive by wire throttle plate management) to be proprietary information. The current map is hardcore conservative on the ignition timing and throttle maps (plate position never truly gets fully open despite my 100% throttle input.) The load vs VVT angle map leaves much to be desired also.

This is all on purpose to keep me from blowing up shit like a dumbass and then blaming it on a bad tune. It will get better, quickly.

"proprietary info" that literally anyone with more than 3 brain cells to rub together will come to the same numbers or relatively close depending on tuning style and aggression.

Went picking through about 18,000 lines of logging last night. There's something up with my radiator fan as it doesn't appear to be turning on. I was stopped in traffic for about three minutes on the highway portion of the commute home last night, thought I got a faint whiff of coolant right as traffic began to move. I was just reaching for the tablet when I needed to reach for the shifter instead.

Logging shows the ECT's were 109*c, which isn't "hot" but I know my fans weren't on and they should've been. Soon as i started moving, it rapidly dropped to around 85*c.

Hope I didn't break the dumb thing, replacing the factory fan is a PITA.

Let it idle in the driveway up to temp and see if it comes on eventually :dunno:

Yeah, I'll tinker with it either tonight or over the weekend. Previous logs suggest the fan kicks in around the 100* mark, give or take. It was stupid hot outside, but I had the top down and wasn't running the AC.

Are you able to do any tinkering w/ ecutec? or is it one of those locked mumbo jumbos that "only your tuner" (herp derp) can go into?

Cause if you can, just lower the temp threshold and voila

Sadly, ECUTek doesn't (yet) expose the fan enablement temp controls for the NC. You have to load the ROM into MazdaEdit and manage it there. It's on their radar, or at least reportedly so, since they already know the ROM offset location for the values.