spool sound of anti surge housing on gen 2 gtx3071

sounds glorious

There's additional tuning you can do so boost only comes up at a certain PSI lower in the revs. Kinda like in your very first tune for the 2560 where you added boost higher in the revs.

I can see the hesitation re: 5 speed. It's just a matter of time before it gives up the ghost.

Im going to stick with spring pressure for now and try to enjoy the car for the next few months til winter hits. Its so nice to have it off jack stands and on the ground ready to go when I open the garage. Besides, more torque will just make 2nd gear even more worthless

Finally got my oil pressure sensor working (thanks for the help everyone)

Aim mxl strada dash now displays boost, afr, oil pressure, water temp, ethanol percentage, and intake air temp. Also has a working speedometer, odometer, shift lights, and warning lights.

Hooked up ebc and went to test the car. Started it up after it sat for a week and it would barely idle. Misfiring badly, whole car was shaking and it sounded exactly like a Subaru. Thought it was ignition related so I pulled the plugs and they all looked normal. Then I noticed the fuel pressure wasnt right. looked and saw dark gunk on top of pistons through spark plug holes. maybe i shouldve changed my fuel filter sooner after switching to e85...

does this look normal for an injector after 300 miles?
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...898e92e0a8.jpg

Just took out the pump assembly. No signs of the sludge. Took apart the filter, looks new. Everything looks fine. But i think the sludge is in the tank. It looks clean until I wipe my finger on it

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How would the filter not catch this stuff? And would that clog an injector?

Beautiful build.

Car is up and running again. Having some ignition issues but the car RIPS when it doesnt misfire. I have the 3 port ebc hooked up like an internal wastegate setup. Like a very precise "ball and spring" mbc that i can tell it when to give pressure to the wastegate.

Looking over some datalogs, no ebc just spring pressure, the gate was opening around 10-12 psi. I was hitting 18psi at 6400rpm lol
New datalog shows 18psi at 4500rpm. Making some torque now!

New fuel return setup while I had the pump assembly out. Radium engineering 5/16 e85 compatible submersible fuel hose.

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This is why you want to drain under the fuel level and not on top of it

A little late in the season, but I installed an AC window unit over the weekend. It should help me make it out to the garage more often


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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1054b9882b.jpg
stock pistons & rings. Stock 5 speed. almost 23psi

Where does your signal come from for the ethanol content? Fuel pump, or in-line sender?

Very cool build. The videos make it look wild lol.

Gm continental flex fuel sensor in the return line. Sensor is configured in the ecu and then viewed on my aim dash.

Thanks. It goes pretty good once boost hits!

Sounds good. I will check out that GM part. I'm going to be running a similar system and hadn't quite figured out which components to use. I've got a MXS dash, they are sweet. Compared to the cost of gauges to fulfill all those functions, the AiM is a deal.

Anyone have an educated guess on how much hp its making? I know the stock IM is probably choking flow but im thinking it has to be at least 400whp. With corn juice ignition timing and over 20psi on a gtx3071. Big turbine housing and 3 inch straight pipe

A video showing some good pulls, or VD would help. From the short vid posted of 2nd gear, that wasn't 400whp.

Im hitting a dynojet in the next few weeks. I just want to know about where I should be maybe +- 30whp so I will know if something is wrong.

The earlier vid was without ebc. Wastegate was opening stupid early (10psi) and then tapering to 18psi at redline. Now the gate opens at 17-18psi and hits 22psi at redline. It now spins 2nd gear from a roll every time on 225 rs3s. Gearing is short but spinning r compound tires at 40mph should mean its making some power. Or maybe thats a dumb thing to go by idk

Anyone know if hydra datalogs can be used in VD?

Yes they should be.
I'm with pat, don't think you're at 400.
Gordons car spun rs3s in 2nd with 3.6 gearing at just over 300

One way to get a quick-and-dirty max power figure out of existing datalogs is to look at your injector duty cycle. id1000s would be at like 90% on E85 to do 400 rwhp.

--ian

Yep that's a good idea too
(at your typical 45-60 base pressures)

Good idea, never thought of looking at DC for a rough hp number. I will have to log DC% the next time I have my car out.

My fuel pressure is at 50psi without the engine running (no vacuum) and increases 1:1 with manifold pressure.

Looking at injector calculators online, I could make ~400whp at 95% DC with that base pressure.

Definetly thought I'd be flowing a little more air with my hotside setup and 18-22psi. Bummer for a $2000 turbo

DC is a calculated field using injector pulsewidth and RPM, so you should have the necessary data in pretty much any tuning log you do.

--Ian

Got tons of street tuning done this weekend. Boost is now at 25psi. Also leaned the fueling out a lot from FMs original map. FM had the target AFRs in the low 11s even for e85. I noticed i was right around 11 even dipping into the high 10s. From what ive read thats way too rich for e85.

First I increased my base fuel rail pressure (engine off) to 70psi. Did a bunch of tuning and got the afrs to 11.8-12.1 at wot. Car pulls a little better now.

I also ordered a honda skunk2 intake manifold. My plan is to try and hit 450whp on the setup and then buy some slicks- start breaking drivetrain parts and then build the drivetrain next year. Bmw trans, gm diff, etc etc. The car is fun and all, but doing 3rd gear pulls are getting kinda of boring. I want to be able to launch this thing

How's the car holding up? You only did the rods right?

Rods, bearings, main studs, Head studs, BE oil pump. Also opened up the ring gap a little from stock.

Holding up great so far. Still need to check my catch can to see how much blow by I had all summer but it didn't seem to be using any more oil than it did at 260whp. 25 psi and FMs corn timing map. 11.8-12.0 afrs. Has to be over 400 or somethings broken.

On jack stands for the winter getting a honda intake mani, 68mm b16 tb, and fab9 550hp intercooler.


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Fab9 stage 2 intercooler mounted.

With a 68mm throttle body and a honda manifold, the flow restriction is now my stock head. Which i think i can make up for by running a little more boost. Really hoping I can hit 450whp.

I'm not sure what Pat made before blowing them up, but you might be in the running for most power made on stock Pistons if you go through with these winter plans.

Seriously cool stuff man.

Only reason Pats blew was bc of detonation at like 30 psi. He was on pump gas. Im on ethanol. My engine already held fine at 25psi before I put it away for the winter.

I heard a shop in CA called BP specialties made around 500whp on stock pistons. Who knows.

Im just excited that I'll have everything in place to make big power. Hotside, coldside, intercooler, piping, fuel system, cooling, etc. So when this engine does let go, i can just drop a TSE block in there and be right back to 400whp+

I think BP specialties is in the Miami area and I'm not sure you want to be replicating what they do.

The consensus, here atleast, is that they over exaggerate their dyno numbers and they also have such shitty spool and shitty powerbands. I think hyper runs that shop and mattman was tuned there. There's a thread in the dyno section about that 1.6 build. Its meh.

Then again, you seem to be going for the big numbers so maybe that approach is what you're after ie slow spool and high power but only at the very top of the rev range.

Right now I hit full boost at 4500 and I rev out to 7300. Not ideal but it gets the job done here in Michigan where its just straight roads between corn fields. Plus I think my drivetrain has stayed together so far because of my lack of torque (due to smaller powerband)

Yup. It's not really how folks here generally like to make power though. I'll wait for others to comment, but I mean... whatever works for your goals you know?

Are you going to do any head work over the winter? Springs? Porting?

Vibrant 3" HD clamp welded to honda throttle body. Now time to make a cold side IC pipe.

Attachment 218967

I don't think Hyper (Eli) has anything to do with that shop. It's owned and run by Carlos.

you planning to run ALLOFIT?
that's a pretty serious clamp

Not all of it. I just like the clean look and easy serviceability. Comes apart with no tools yet holds like 300 psi

Attachment 220080
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Dash mount i made. Still using the stock cluster for fuel level.

Going to paint it wrinkle black.

Testing out honda TPS sensor with hydra. Works perfectly


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Fire extinguisher mounted. Carpet still needs to go back in

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Big boy vibrant intercooler bolted up

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I would not want to be banging my elbow on that fire extinguisher all the time

Trailer acquired. So when car breaks at the drag strip i can get it home


Attachment 220085

Im 6' 1" so i sit up a little higher. It'll be fine. Mainly its for easy quick access in case of fire

I am also six foot one but my seats are bolted flat to the floor

Made a bracket out of 1/8" stainless that positions the stock throttle cable in the right spot for the honda throttle body

Attachment 220218

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Like the cool internet kids do it

It's like force feeding yourself carbon monoxide and carcinogens is becoming a hip thing. Looks great.

School in the background. nice.

I love this stupid car. It spun 3rd gear today. Which tells me its making some power since it makes 0 torque under 5000rpm. Cant wait to get it on the dyno and see my 2500rpm power band

Attachment 221181

When's the dyno?

Glad it's keeping you happy!

In the next few weeks. I want to dial in the fuel a little better first. It's kind of rich at full boost right now. I'd like to get it right around 12.0 afr

Also going to weigh the car on corner scales or whatever they're called. Super excited to see how much it weighs after all the stuff I've removed. Crossing my fingers its under 2100

In for dyno results, sick setup

3rd gear now behaves as neutral and I can hear stuff/pieces in the trans. Drove home with 1-2-4 still ripping on it.

RIP original 40k mile 5 speed.

My guess is that it was a ticking time bomb but the air temp was down a considerable amount tonight. It was spinning 3rd easily for a couple pulls. Got the tires warm and i did a pull all the way through 3rd and 4th. Coasted down and heard rattling...

New intake vs old.
With a massive and efficient intercooler taking up almost the entire mouth of my car, i figured theres no reason why i should be seeing intake temps 20-30 degrees higher than ambient while just cruising. Old intake sucking air right off the manifold. New intake sucking ambient air temp

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Messing with some new rev limit settings on the hydra. Finally got it to not over shoot the rev limit with 90% ignition cut and 70% fuel cut

Who needs breathable air, or both headlights, or being able to driver in the rain.... all this stuff is over rated.

This will be an epic car if you route the exhaust properly, get a new headlight, put the intake filter right behind the headlight, and build a box over it, there is a hole under the headlight to get fresh air to the filter, and box will stop hot engine air. I have this exact setup, and my IAT's are 100% ambient temp while cruising.

I actually look at my IAT readout to see how hot it is outside. instead of my weather app.

did someone say anything nay? pretty sure we're all kinda excited by this

i edited my post with more useful info.

Is this thing still running? Did you ever make it to the dyno? I’d love to see what it looked like with that turbo, I’m deciding between the GTX3067 and GTX3071 to replace my journal bearing eBay 3071. From your videos and what you’ve described our cars are almost identical in how they drive: I’m making peak boost 21psi at 4500rpm, not much going on below that. Sick build tho hope it’s still going