curly

iTrader: (25)

Would this kit be available for free rental at AutoZone? I believe the point of the drill/jigsaw method is that for only two bushings, it's easier than buying a ball joint kit.

$5 and a trip to HD is worth it if it works for the other 20(?) a arm bushings.

chiefmg

iTrader: (5)

I don't know for sure, you could call them. I bought the ball joint kit for a previous job on a different car. Basically the way I did it was to press them out, same as if you had a hydraulic press.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Well I've purchased a few parts that should wrap up the first round of modifications.

Decided to grab a properly depowered rack from a member on here.
Used spindles.
Bolts for RLCA.

The rear sub frame just needs to have the differential installed now that I have the poly bushings installed. After that I can put on the suspension and it's ready for install.

The front needs the rack/tie rods/ball joints/spindles installed. After that I can put on the suspension and reinstall.

The engine needs a broken bolt drilled out on the intake side of the EGR. (Can the EGR tube be removed without a code being thrown? Assuming I block the ports.) Then it can be installed as well.

I get back in February, and I think it will take two weekends to get everything I want to done. I have a bit of cleaning to do in the engine bay before it's all back in.

I'm still seriously considering painting the engine bay. And to be honest if I get delayed with anything and have to wait for parts I will.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

I just spent an ungodly amount of money on:

Moog Inner and Outer Tie Rods
Moog Ball Joints

I mean, holy *****. The total was like $400 shipped. There goes the portion of my tax return I planned on spending.

That being said the LAST thing I need for the car is abs sensors that I broke.

I will not paint the engine bay. Although i may sand and paint some areas that are rusty. Won't be pretty but my main goal is to stop the rust.

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

Stop the rust for sure, but you don't really need ABS.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Well, I will start reassembly whether I have the sensors or not, they can easily be added later. I think I bought one sensor. I can't remember. My leasing office I'm sure is loving the 100 boxes that showed up since I left 3 weeks ago.

I'm worried about wheel bearings. And thinking of getting the uber expensive hubs that last forever just for peace of mind. But I dunno. I guess I can do a wheel bearing at anytime.

pocketrocket

Ouch...$400? Did you try RockAuto?

-Sam

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Gah, just checked prices and I would have saved $40-50. Oh well. Now I know.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Hustler swears by cheap china hubs and then repacking with Amsoil grease.

I believe he uses this grease. If you want some let me know I am about to place an amsoil order.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Is it difficult to repack? I'm guess if Hustler can do it I can. Although he seems to have a bit more experience with packing things than me.

Did you order your grease yet bro? Links to cheap china hubs?

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Got some work done tonight. No pictures as of now so basically a boring post.

1. Finished installing the diff mounts. Had to scrape the rubber off the top portion of the mounts that isn't used with the poly ones. Got lucky and it literally just peeled off.

2. Mounted diff to sub frame.

3. Installed remaining control arms.

4. Installed axles/spindles.

5. Mounted subframe to vehicle

6. Reconnected the ABS sensors.

7. Reconnected brake lines.

8. Installed brakes.

9. Installed coilovers. *question regarding this at bottom*

10. Installed final bushings on FUCL.

11. Installed all the control arms in the front.

**I forgot to put that spacer that is like a plastic film on the passenger side coilover, is this going to end the world?**


Also ordered all new shock bolts, 1 new RLCA bolt, and 2 spacers for the moog tie rods. This weekend I will also be picking up some very expensive FM uprated hubs. Figured I don't really want to ever have to do it again, so going with some good stuff. I now have invested... too much money in this car to ever think about getting rid of it.

blindboxx2334

iTrader: (1)

you should be okay, i forgot to put those on the rear when i put my coils on. i think they only real reason they're there is for helping water repellent or so the tophat and shock mount aren't constantly rubbing each other?

but other than that. mine are fine. but next time i will make sure not to forget them.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Just about every part I ordered last week isn't going to get here until next week. Which sucks because I have a 3 day weekend. I still have enough to do for a day or so, but I guess after that I'll just work on cleaning up stuff.

I'm considering scheduling an alignment on Friday or Thursday next week. I really want to be able to drive it to Austin next next weekend, and I might have everything installed after work on Wednesday or Thursday at the latest if everything comes in on Tues.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Well, got in my P/S replacement pulley so I dont' have to butcher the pump.

Also got a few trinkets in like my garage star license plate thing, which I could have made, but honestly I just want this car on the road again ASAP. Also got in some HT brackets since it will more or less be permanently on.

And finally got my RB gaskets so I don't have an exhaust leak. WTF is with the stupid donut gaskets they use. Seem really dumb.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

exhaust manifold gasket?
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_maker.htm

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Holy ----.

Today was... well... a long day.

I hooked up the engine and got just about everything good. Then I noticed one of my vacuum lines didn't have anything to hook up to. When the engine was out I had bumped the intake manifold pretty hard with a control arm and at first glance it didn't look like anything was broke. Well turns out I hit the control module thing for the flappers on the intake manifold and broke off one of the vacuum ports. So I removed that and capped the lines. Will get a used one at some point.

I finished hooking up the drive shaft and exhaust, as well as the o2 sensors.

I went to start it... and nothing. Just cranking

I tried pressing the gas down and it started... barely. It had a very sad idle. Like my car was crying.

So I checked for vacuum leaks and the usual. Found a few clamps that needed to be put on, but nothing to cause an emo miata.

Clearly I screwed up the timing belt job.

I took off everything needed to take a peak at the cam gears, put it at TDC, and yep, 4 teeth off. I must have let it slip as I put on the belt. I thought I verified but I guess not.

So I pulled the bolt off just the cam gears, moved them how they should be, then reinstalled the belt.

Put it all back together and it fired up instantly. Revved very smooth for not being started for 6 months. Everything checks out.

The next big thing is making sure the water pump doesn't leak. As I'm never sure if I got it on clean. That thing is such a PITA. If it leaks I'm parting this ---- out lol.

Tomorrow I'll let it idle and warm up to temp.

It still has no front suspension, but at least I can hear it idle whenever I want now... MOTIVATION!


EDIT: WHY CAN I SAY **** ON MFz and NOT MT LOL

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

Too much of a tease here.

I envy your wrenching skills.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

lol you mean originally messing up the water pump gasket, having to redo the timing belt after repairing the water pump gasket, then having to redo the timing belt again because I did it wrong the second time. All while managing to break my rpm-intake mani-flapper-thing.

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

You've taken out (and more importantly successfully put back in) your engine, rear sub-frame and probably some other stuff I'm forgetting, not bad IMO.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Hopefully I get a solid year of just driving the ---- out of this thing once it's back together. It will all be worth it.