KevinK121

Figured I'd start a proper build thread. If for no other reason than for my own organization.

I've been talking about slapping a turbo on every car I've owned since I was an early twenty-something with a 2001 Civic EX. Then it was an RSX. Then a BRZ...
So now, at 31 I just need to get it out of my system. The theme of this project is 'Cost Efficiency' and I'm doing this about as bare bones as I can.

Car: 2002 SE. Purchased 2017 in Jacksonville FL and driven back to MN. ~110k miles as it sits.
Turbo: 2860rs, purchased from a local exocet buddy for cheap, in great condition. The dream was an efr 6258... but again, 'Cost Efficiency'
Goal: Make as little of power as possible on the ~8# wastegate pressure and make it through the 2020 season on the stock block. If he dies, he dies.(Dolph)
Current supporting modifications: MS3 PnP Pro, S2 64mm TB, flat top manifold(mildly DIY ported), 2.5" exhaust from cat back.

Eventual goals: Be rock solid/track ready for 300 hp in the engine and only probably run ~280 . Maybe add some functional aero. Have a bunch of fun and enjoy the car.

Basic kit to include:
- 2860rs
- Kraken low mount manifold/ 3" dp
- FM intercooler piping
- PTE "300hp" intercooler
- 600-700cc injectors(undecided)
- 190lph fuel pump
- 949 4-puck sprung clutch

When I bought the car, the eventual plan was to K-swap it. At ~$10k from beginning to turn-key, that's not a realistic goal any time soon.
I intentionally wanted a larger/later spooling turbo from the start to be able to drive it like a completely stock car when I want to and have everything shifted a little further up the RPM band.
I'd like to hopefully source a start-up map and do most of my own tuning to get things going. I have a little experience tuning with Kpro, less with MS3. Lots to learn there.

The list as it stands(things in light blue have been ordered and in dark blue, received) :

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I think the 2860 is a great choice for a track car, and mated with the Kraken bits makes a great powerband. Check out my thread, I have a similar setup and I love it. Made ~200whp on 8psi, which should be well within the safety zone for your stock block, even with track abuse.

KevinK121

I hope these resize automatically.


Where the work is going to be getting done. I intend to keep this intake box and reroute the catch can inside of it. The washer bottle, I have no idea. Its made to sit above the coilover ****. Maybe just shield the heck out of it.

.



Clocked and ready to rock. Re-clocking a used turbo was... a learning experience.



The oil input connectors that came with it. Should these be really really tight?

KevinK121

That's awesome news. From what I was hearing/seeing/reading I thought I was going to be making no less than like 240 on the 8# spring with boost creep(~14psi). If I can come in around 220 off the bat, that'd be great. Even yeah, 200 would make me feel a lot better to run it for the season.


I'm an instructor with a local performance shop that rents a track once/mo for HPDE. It'd be a big bummer going out there to instruct and not be able to have a bit of fun myself if the engine were to blow up too soon. But yeah, if it happens it happens.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I had no problem holding 8psi without much boost creep, and the ~200whp (virtual dyno) at around 8psi was at 7,200 ft elevation, so I'm sure it would be a bit closer to 220-240whp at sea level. Still should be nice power delivery without bottom end failure due to the linear power curve the 2860 gives ya.

KevinK121

I have to admit, your feedback is taking out some of the doubt I had and filling it in with more hype.

Mr. Kraken said shipping should take place tomorrow. Perfect timing being the lows here are about to bottom out at 30ish degrees. Meaning I can leave the daily in the driveway and make a mess of the miata in the garage.

All I really have left to figure out is all the plumbing stuff. Oil, water and this Hawley piece. I'm sure there's plenty to go off of here. Somewhere.

KevinK121

For heat shielding the important bits, would you folks consider shielding off the entire area with aluminum sheeting/gold tape to be overkill? Literally what I had for the airbox already just another section.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

A piece of aluminum would be fine. It creates enough of a barrier to reduce the head. You could also look into a formable barrier (https://www.designengineering.com/formable-hard-shield/) or just add some heat reflective material to the aluminum (there are lots out there that aren't gold).

rwyatt365

Heat shielding is essential, especially if you intend to flog this build on a track. Don't be like some people who go on a trackday without proper shielding and end up melting their master cylinder reservoir, catching fire in the paddock and then spending 2-3 hours waiting for a friend to come tow them home with an impending storm approaching. Of course, I have NO personal experience with that kind of thing;

KevinK121

Big no thanks there. That sounds terrible.

I definitely intend to do some sort of heat shielding just kinda feel like building an entire aluminum wall might be overkill. It could look kinda cool though too so... I think Ill plan to go for it.

I had a strange thought process to toss a bag of popcorn in behind the wall during a track session to see if it'll pop. Whats the worst that could happen... (rhetorical)

KevinK121

List update. All I need now is to actually see what Mr.Kraken sent me for "fittings" so I can finalize this bish and start test fitting. He was able to get my stuff shipped today so the hype is really building now. Lots of work ahead.

Still not sure what to do for injectors. I've heard a lot of heavily biased feedback about/against pretty much every option out there. ID: significantly overpriced, DW: beware of failure/engine ded, FIC: beware of failure/engine ded, FF: beware of failure/engine ded.

x_25

Are you getting the low mount manifold? More heat sheilding is always better.

Hot tip I wish I had done before I had everything in and realized the hearer core return hose was touching the down pipe.... Bend the end of the metal return pipe (the one under the manifold) as far up and back as you can go without kinking it to get that hose out of the way.

For injectors, the 640cc flow force ones are stock FoMoCo parts, I would not worry about them.

My box from Bulgaria was on my doorstep 36 hours after it shipped....

KevinK121

That's incredible shipping time.

Im leaning towards the FF's being there's a lot of positive feedback and there seems to be a forum presence here.

Not sure how tf Im going to route the coolant scenario given the turbo input location and size differences from the heater core outle(-10an or 5/8") to the turbo inlet(?). I was planning on just replacing everything from the firewall to the turbo. No idea what the size is leaving the turbo but it seems to go to a -6an bit on the Hawley piece.

I havent made any commitments to plumbing components until I get the whole sheh-bang mocked up on the car.

Still no idea what to about oil supply either. Endless debate on the VVT engine hard to separate signal from noise.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I run my oil supply off the VVT wart, mainly because adapting a 6AN feed line for EFR sucks and the directions recommend 6AN with a feed longer than 16" or so with cold weather driving. The VVT feed line is much larger than 4 or even 6AN using it does not seem to break VVT or anything, I can hold 3 degrees or more at idle still. At ~1800RPM I can completely cycle the VVT cam gear to figure max angle. Knowing how large the drainback holes are on the VVT actuator I'm not sure drawing a turbo's worth off that hard line is going to hurt anything. Either way, I wouldn't expect much from kraken on oil or water lines, even if they say they do...

I've ran flow force 640's and now 960's with great success, engines still intact, no dead. Flow force started here if I'm not mistaken, the guy who runs FF has a build thread here.

Jesse99James

Hey Kevin,

For the windshield washer bottle, why not order the Cappuccino bottle and get it out of the engine compartment?
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/suzuki/3845080f00

I installed this last Fall as I hated the bottle that came with the Flyin' Miata FM2 full Garret upgrade kit on the '04 Mazdaspeed that I purchased. It wasn't difficult to figure out how/where to mount it. I think I spent $5-8 at Menards for a few galvanized framing brackets (near the joist support brackets) and washers + nuts + bolts. You can find good bolt size/length recommendations thanks to RevLimiter.
https://revlimiter.net/blog/2011/02/...washer-bottle/

If you want any assistance with installing any turbo or clutch parts I'd be glad to help. I live in the second ring of NW suburbs. This Spring I am going to attempt more tuning on my Hydra Nemesis 2.6 (GT 2560r turbo) to make sure the 10-12 psi is safe after changing the IAT sensor to a faster reacting GM sensor. I'm not sure if the second owner changed anything in the tune but I already got it starting and idling better. Hoping to polish the tune otherwise I'll be dumping it for an MS3-pro. I'm not sure I'll get into racing but want to try Autocross. Only problem is I'm 6'3" so I really need a seat drop pan and possibly a steering wheel extender. Even with Elise seats (OEM sliders) I'm not sitting much lower than NB2 seats with an aggressive foamectomy. Doubt I'll ever pass a broomstick test, car came with the Boss Frog dual hoop roll bar (Maxx?).

Jess

KevinK121

Apologies, but VVT wart? Was that a mistype? Seems like a very viable option in any case Thanks for the FF feedback as well.


Oh wow, $30 is very livable. After seeing that FM charges $80 for them (lol wut) I pretty much wrote it off. What I have in there now is a heavily DIY'd $7 Dorman coolant bottle. It worked pretty well actually but it would be nice to get it out the bay entirely.

I appreciate the offer. That's awesome you're from the area. Are you on MNMX5? Good luck on that Nemesis. I havent been around long but I've been around long enough to learn that people are not the biggest fans of that ECU. Admittedly I don't know much about it. You'll be fine going out for autocross. Im also 6'3'' and I've never had a second look. If you were running a track day with SCCA, they might raise an eyebrow but typically in autocross, you likely wont even need the roll bar. I have a second NB *seat for track days and its literally gutted to the pan. It gets me JUST low enough. I have an Ultralight on my sim rig but after the hours I've logged in it, I have no real desire to actually put it in the car. Thats a bummer to hear about the Elise seat. I figured it'd be nice to have someday. Maybe I can get a test sit this season anyways

If you're on FB join MNMX5 to keep track of the local community. Parts, meets, general Miata silliness... good stuff.

nigelt

iTrader: (10)

Truth has been spoken this day.

KevinK121

I recently sent you a message via amazon asking if you were planning on selling there again any time soon. %5 back adds up

HarryB

Here's what I plan for mine. Dimensions are in mm and measured with a ruler on the cardboard, so not 100% verified.





Plan to cut it in 1mm aluminum, roll some beads on the flat sides and add stick-on foam insulation on the inside (armaflex is quite cheap and effective).

KevinK121

Hey, thats right. I forgot you showed me that in another thread. If I delete the washer bottle or at least from that location, something like that would likely make a bit more sense. Thanks for sharing